(Click Here for Installation Manual)
You'll begin the actual installation of your sprinkler system by running pipe
to match the layout you sketched earlier. A few helpful hints will make
positioning and joining pipe as easy as possible.
For PVC Pipe
Cut pipe with a hacksaw or PVC pipe cutter and file off burrs. Use primer to
clean area that will be cemented. Wait a few minutes for the primer to dry.
Brush solvent cement freely around the outside end of the pipe and to inside of
the fitting. Slip the pipe into the fitting, then twist it a quarter turn to
evenly distribute the solvent for a leak-proof bond. Hold for about 15 seconds
until pipe is set, then wipe excess solvent from around the joint.
For Poly Pipe
As mentioned before, poly pipe should only be used between valves and
sprinkler heads since it can't withstand the surge pressure between your service
lines and valves. Cut poly pipe with a knife or a hacksaw. Slip a stainless
steel hose clamp over the pipe and insert the fitting. Then position the clamp
over the area of pipe surrounding the ridged part of the fitting, and tighten
Make sure all clamps are tightened snugly on poly pipe.
Tap Into Your Service Line
Turn off your main water supply at the water meter. Cut into the service line
as close as possible to where you'll position your control valves, and remove
about 3" of the service line pipe. Insert a compression tee as shown then
tighten the nuts to seal against leaking.
a Shut-Off Valve
Finally, install a shut-off gate or ball valve so you can turn off your
entire sprinkler system of necessary. Run a pipe from the compression tee to the
shut-off valve, then lay another length of pipe from the shut-off valve to the
location of your control valves.
A Shut-off valve lets you turn off water to your
sprinkler system without affecting your household water supply.
If the Meter Is In The Basement
Shut off your water supply at the meter and insert a compression tee as
described previously. Drill a 1" hole through the sill above the
foundation, or drill or chisel a hole through the basement wall. Install the
pipe as shown, including
the shut-off valve and drain cap. In freezing areas, pipe should slope downward
from the control valves to the basement entrance, and a drain cap should be
installed in a low position. Seal the hole in your wall with caulking compound.
Drain water from your system by closing the shut-off valve and removing the
drain cap, using a bucket to catch the flow.
In Freezing Areas
If freezing temperatures occur in your area, install automatic
drain valves at the low points in the pipe run from each control valve, and
between the control-valve manifold and the shut-off valve. Use a reducer tee,
and slope the automatic drain valve downward at a 45° angle into a bed of
gravel to provide drainage. When your sprinkler system shuts off, the automatic
drain valve opens to release any water standing in the pipes.
Laying Out Your system
Use wooden stakes to mark
the location of each sprinkler head and control valve. Then connect the
stakes with string to represent the path of your piping. Check the layout you
sketched to make sure you've positioned everything accurately before you begin
Digging Trenches By Hand
To soften your soil, water the ground about two days before you plan to
trench your yard. Use a straight-edge spade to dig "V" shaped 6"
deep trenches (up to 10" in freezing climates). Place sod on one side of
the trench and dirt on the other, so you can put everything back the way it was.
Using a trencher
Renting an automatic trencher can make your job easier. Check your local
lawn-supply store or equipment-rental company. The renter can show you how to
safely operate the machine. Don't use it to dig trenches through flower beds or
ground cover, or operate it near buildings or on steep slopes.
Before using a trencher, make sure to check with your
local gas and electric companies to be certain that there are no buried lines
where you'll be digging.
Attach your hose to a length of pipe with a hose-pipe adapter. Place the end
of the pipe where you want it to tunnel, for example under a concrete sidewalk,
then turn on the water. Push the pipe under the obstacle as the water pressure
cuts a channel. Be careful to avoid damaging walls and driveways by washing away
too much soil.
Lay the Main Line
If you haven't already done so, cut a length of pipe to run from the shut-off
valve to the location of your first set of control valves. If you're planning a
second set of control valves in another direction, link them to the first set
with another length of pipe.
Place Your Control Valves
In front of the control
valve positions you staked out earlier, lay out the valves, risers (vertical
pipe segments) and tees on the ground the way that they will fit together as a
manifold. To prevent backflow, make sure anti-siphon valves are at least 6"
above the highest sprinkler head (or higher if required by local codes). Space
valves at least 5" apart for easy assembly and maintenance.
Set Up Valve Manifold
Apply solvent to each joint and fit together as shown in the illustration
above. Follow the solvent manufacturer's suggested drying time (typically about
1 hour), then turn off all control valves according to the instructions packaged
with them. Now turn on the valve at your water meter.
Making an In-Line Manifold
If your water supply or local codes require the use of in-line
valves, several steps can enhance the durability of your installation. Bury
the manifold in the ground above a bed of gravel for better drainage. And for
easy access surround the valves with wood (preferably redwood for longevity), or
install them in a valve box available from your local retailer. Be sure to
install a separate constant pressure backflow device if running your system off
your household water supply.
Never Install Any Valve Downstream
of an Anti-Siphon Valve
One final note: if you're using anti siphon valves, make sure that no other
valve (manual or electric) is installed between them and your sprinkler heads.
This would prevent the built-in backflow prevention from working.
Attaching Sprinkler Heads
Now match the various kinds of sprinkler heads you've purchased with the
locations you've staked out according to your sketch.
Trenches from the appropriate control valve should be
deep enough so that each head will be at the proper height.
Cut The Risers
Match each head to a riser, and check that sprinklers reach the right height
when pipe is in the trench. (See
"Install the heads"). Cut risers if necessary.
Insert The Risers
Put a tee in the pipe at each sprinkler head location; using a right-angle
elbow for the head at the end of each pipe. Screw the risers
into the tee or elbow at each sprinkler head location, but leave heads off.
Flush the System
Use pipe plugs to seal all risers except the one at the end of each pipe.
Turn on the water at the shut-off valve, and open the control valves one at a
time using manual bleed screws until water runs clear of all debris. Check the
entire system for leaks. Then close the control valves, and remove all pipe
Different kinds of heads are installed in different ways. The following tips
will help ensure durability and proper water distribution. For accurate watering
patterns, make sure all sprinklers are vertical. For extra protection against
leads, wrap riser heads with Teflon® tape before installing heads
Pop-Ups and Rotors
The tops of pop-up
sprinkler heads and rotors should be slightly above the soil surface. Any
higher, and they're subject to damage when mowing or engaging in yard
Shrub Heads and Bubblers
Shrub heads and bubblers should be mounted on risers that lift them
several inches above the soil surface. This allows their patterns to reach the
Fine Tune Your Pattern
Adjust pop-up sprinkler heads so their patterns water precisely the areas you
want. Adjust Lawn Genie pop-up spray heads by pulling up the pop-up stem and
turning it to the precise direction desired. The pop-up stem
"ratchets" to allow easy, reliable adjustment of the spray direction.
Installing Your Timer
Choose an indoor location near a standard 120-volt electrical outlet.
Following the instructions in the timer installation manual, fasten the unit to
the wall using the screws provided, and attach the transformer.
Wire The Control Valves
Run valve wiring underground wherever possible. For line runs less than 800
feet long, use 18-gauge, plastic jacketed thermostat control wire; over 800
feet, use 14-gauge wire. Your dealer can provide this wire in 2,3,4,5,6,7 and 8
wire color-coded strands. Connect a single common color wire to one of the wires
from each valve. Solder or join all splices with wire nuts, then seal with vinyl
or waterproof cement to assure a water resistant connection.
Connect the Valves to Your timer
Connect the wire from valve number 1 to the terminal screw marked
"1" on the timer, the wire from valve number 2 to the terminal
"2", and so on. This allows your timer to selectively water the Zone
controlled by each valve. Connect the common wire to the terminal marked "COMM".
If using a water pump or master valve, refer to page 18 for installation
Program Your timer
Now consult the owner's manual that came with your
timer. Different timers use different programming techniques. But no matter
which timer you choose, it helps to write down your zones and their watering
days in the form of a schedule before you start.
Check System Operation
Now you're ready to test your installation. Open the
shut-off valve all the way and test each Zone using your timer's manual control.
Adjust the radius and pattern direction of pop-ups to avoid wasting water on
walks, driveways and other areas. Also adjust shrub heads and bubblers. See
Troubleshooting section on page 19 if one or more valves fails to operate. When
system is functioning properly, replace soil and sod in trenches
Information found here was supplied by Lawn Genie.