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manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
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For residential & light commercial
systems. The
SRC controller offers a proven track record of Hunter quality and
reliability, as well as some of the features you'd assume might only
be available on high-priced units.
For residential systems.
A masterpiece of modern technology that brings together the most
desirable features, bundles them in a small, attractive package, and
makes everything simple and easy to use. The new EC is designed for
those who don’t want a big controller, but do want one with all the
features that meet their irrigation requirements.
For residential & light commercial
systems. With
its ability to customize to the particular size you need (from 3 to 15
stations), the Pro-C will always be the right choice
Whether you require the use of
a booster pump or pull water directly from a creek or pond, it is
imperative that your irrigation system includes a relay that can be
counted upon to activate your pump each and every time.
The new Hunter XC presents handy water management control in a compact, user-friendly controller that is capable of meeting the irrigation requirements for a wide range of residential landscapes.
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The simple,
convenient way for professionals and homeowners to set or adjust
irrigation system schedules using a PC.
Rotor Sprinkler
Installation
and Adjustment Manuals
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installation or adjustment manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at .
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All the features and benefits of the PGP®, scaled down to fit typical spray applications.
A rack of easy-to-install-and-change, water-efficient nozzles…just like PGP. Easy adjustment from the top of the sprinkler…just like PGP.
The safety and durability of a rubber cover…just like PGP.
Economical rotor, ideal for
use in mid-range areas on all residential and light commercial
projects.
Caught someplace between too-big-for-a-spray and
too-small-for-a-rotor? Capable of working in tandem with larger rotors
to combine big and small areas in a single zone.
The world's best selling
rotor for residential & light commercial applications.
With features like a large dirty water screen and the superior ability
to deliver even water distribution from continuously improved,
precision engineered nozzles, this is a residential and light
commercial sprinkler that is simply unmatched for reliability,
durability or versatility.
Easily Upgrade Impact
Sprinklers to Modern Gear Drive Technology.
The proven performance of the PGP rotor specially designed to upgrade
impact sprinklers.
Upgrade to heavy duty,
commercial grade features in a sprinkler that's ideal for residential
and commercial projects.
If you're looking to upgrade over a typical residential grade rotor,
this is where the search ends. No other rotor in its class gives you
more.
Our top-of-the-line
Institutional Series rotor. High flow and long throw for commercial and
recreational sites.
The number one choice at sports facilities the world over is also a
winner for parks and commercial sites.
A large turf rotor
engineered to meet the demanding needs of systems with lower pressures
and smaller budgets.
Sensor Manuals and Spec Pages
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.
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Prevent
your sprinklers from coming on during or after precipitation. Mini-Clik
shuts sprinklers off in a storm and keeps them off, automatically
compensating for the amount of rainfall that occurred.
Prevent
your sprinklers from coming on during or after precipitation. Rain-Clik
shuts sprinklers off in a storm and keeps them off, automatically
compensating for the amount of rainfall that occurred.
Prevent
your sprinklers from coming on during or after precipitation.
Wireless Rain-Clik
shuts sprinklers off in a storm and keeps them off, automatically
compensating for the amount of rainfall that occurred.
Shuts off irrigation
systems during periods of high wind (shut down points are
adjustable), then automatically resets the system when conditions
are more favorable
The Flow-Clik is
user-set to activate at a specified level of flow; once that level
is exceeded, the electrical circuit is broken and the valves are
shut off. As a result, the amount of water loss in the event of high
external leakage would be substantially reduced.
Nelson
Controller Manuals
and Spec Pages
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SmartZone EZ Controller Indoor & Outdoor features 4, 6, 8, 12,
16, 20, 24 Stations. SmartZone Technologically superior electronics
combined with the controller's advanced programming abilities make
the SmartZone the best choice.
This EZ Pro Jr. Controller features 4, 6, 9, 12 stations for Indoor or
Outdoor, a weather-resistant case, lithium battery back-up, 3
independent programs, delay between zones, and a "no fuse"
diagnostic circuit breaker.
Independent programming of an unlimited number of actuators (8030 or
8050 series) Plus 16 irrigation start times per actuator 14-day
programming calendar and More.
Rotor
Sprinkler Installation and Adjustment Manuals
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Sprinkler Installation and Adjustment
manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at .
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Four interchangeable AcuCover? nozzles--ranging from 0.5 to 2.5 gpm.
Better pattern coverage than turning down a mid-range gear drive.
Reliable water-lubricated gear motor.
Nelson offers the most comprehensive gear drive line in the turf
irrigation industry. With models covering 18-74 feet, Nelson gear
drives provide superior coverage to all residential and commercial
applications.
Six interchangeable Acu-Cover? nozzles?ranging from 9.4 to 27.5 gpm
Two locking screws on rubber cap for vandal protection Gear drive that
can be installed 1/2" below grade.
Replacement rubber cap/top for the Nelson Pro Rotor Series.
Nelson
Sensor Manuals
and Spec Pages
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manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
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Monitors rainfall levels
and overrides controller to prevent unnecessary irrigation
Nelson Valve Installation and
Operation Manuals
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Operation manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
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Body and bonnet made of glass reinforced nylon to prevent leaks and
breaks. Simple valve configuration and design; few moving parts.
Solenoid has stainless steel plunger and spring to prevent corrosion.
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Indoor and outdoor controller for residential and light commercial use.
Easily
upgrades from a four station base model to 13 stations with the
addition of 3-station modules at installation or in the future
Indoor / Outdoor hybrid controller for light
commercial and residential use. Advanced, easy to use features
designed to meet diverse irrigation requirements, including low
volume drip applications.
The power of an advanced water management tool
in an easy to use package. The ESP-MC is a commercial duty
controller for the basic or sophisticated user.
The Ec controller is designed for new
residential landscapes. With the preset watering schedule options,
including one for the establishment of new lawn, programming is
quick and simple. The sleek compact design installs fast and, with
programmability under battery power, can even be setup months prior
to AC hookup to the job site.
Advanced stand-alone irrigation management. The
Rain Bird IM is the most flexible, full featured irrigation management
system available in a stand-alone package.
Your
new WTD-1900 Electronic Water Timer uses the most up-to-date
electronics available. The design of this unit is intended to
provide years of trouble free service and flexibility in meeting
your watering requirements.
Your
new WTA-1875 Mechanical Water Timer The design of this unit is
intended to provide years of trouble free service and flexibility in
meeting your watering requirements.
Indoor family of controllers.
The ISA 300/400 Sprinkler Series Timers provide simple programming
and flexible schedules to meet your landscape watering needs.
Indoor family of controllers.
The PC-100 Sprinkler Series Timers provide simple programming
and flexible schedules to meet your landscape watering needs.
Your new dual program Rain Bird
sprinkler system timer makes automated watering a reality for you.
The state-of-the-art features will enable you to precisely program
how you want your sprinkler system to operate
This is the most flexible timer on
the market today and yet the easiest to program. Several innovative
features allow you the flexibility to tailor your program to fit a
variety of watering requirements
The PC Sprinkler
Series Timers provide simple programming and flexible schedules to
meet your landscape watering needs. We recommend you read this
Owner's Manual completely before installing the timer to ensure
proper operation and safety.
The PRT Sprinkler Series
Timers provide simple programming and flexible schedules to meet
your landscape watering needs. We recommend you read this Owner's
Manual completely before installing the timer to ensure proper
operation and safety.
Discontinued
Model. The design of this unit is intended to
provide years of trouble free service and flexibility in meeting
your watering requirements.
Discontinued
Model. The design of this unit is intended to
provide years of trouble free service and flexibility in meeting
your watering requirements.
Discontinued
Model. The design of this unit is intended to
provide years of trouble free service and flexibility in meeting
your watering requirements.
Discontinued
Model. The design of this unit is intended to
provide years of trouble free service and flexibility in meeting
your watering requirements.
Discontinued
Model. The design of this unit is intended to
provide years of trouble free service and flexibility in meeting
your watering requirements.
Easy to
install, durable and visually pleasing rain sensor device suitable
for 24VAC residential and commercial applications. This high quality
product saves water and extends irrigation system life by
automatically measuring precipitation and keeping irrigation systems
from watering in rainy conditions
Offer reliable battery-operated
communication with Rain Bird remote compatible controllers (ESP-Si
and ESP-LX+) from anywhere on the job site.
Rotor
Sprinkler Installation
and Adjustment Manuals
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Sprinkler Installation and Adjustment
manual you are seeking is not listed on this page,
please contact us at .
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manual for you. Remember,
this page is updated often, so check back!
The Rain Bird® 7005 Rotor
is built rugged to withstand the harsh conditions and vandalism
present in commercial rotor applications. It has been designed and
tested to ensure the high reliability demanded by the market today.
With its extensive customer identified features, it is versatile
enough to fit all applications.
A powerful
compliment to Rain Bird's top adjust rotor family, offering greater
durability, enhanced Rain Curtain Nozzles, and superior Stream
Control Technology for residential, commercial and athletic field
sites with spacing up to 50 feet.
A mid-range
gear-drive rotor, offering durability, performance, and the
convenience of arc adjustment from the top, for residential and
light commercial applications
Heavy-duty, closed-case
rotor designed for residential and light commercial applications,
especially where high durability and built-in vandalism protection
are important.
The Maxi-Paw's powerful
throw permits maximum spacing and offers superior close-in watering
and uniform water distribution. Low pressure loss and an efficient,
straight-through flow design conserve energy and are ideal for
dirty water applications. The optional Seal-A-Matic™
prevents run-off, puddling, and erosion caused by low head drainage.
And most important, it's rugged and dependable, popping up on
schedule again and again because of the multi-function wiper seal.
The Maxi-Paw Rotor- a tradition of excellence.
Maxi-Bird Series Rotor
(No Manual Currently Available)
Radius: 22 to 45
feet
1/2" (15/21)
riser-mounted impact head used for slope and large-area, above-grade
applications
15111B
Pop-A-Way Series Rotor
(No Manual Currently Available)
Radius: 38 to 41
feet
Brass impact rotor with
plastic open case, used in medium to large turf applications.
Radius:
Rain Curtain Technology: 26 to 40 feet
Radius+ Nozzles: 29 to 50 feet
Closed-case, gear-driven
rotor line offers superior versatility and performance in
hard-to-reach 26- to 50-foot residential and light commercial
applications.
T-40 turret offers
interchangeable color-coded nozzles for the T-Bird Series rotor.
Rain Bird's Talon rotor
features a strong closed-case design for reliable operation even in
the harshest conditions. Rain Bird's vast experience in nozzle
engineering ensures uniform water application. The single snap ring
design makes the Talon rotor easy to service
Multi-purpose impact rotor
used primarily for residential applications.
Valve Installation and
Operation Manuals
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Operation manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
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this page is updated often, so check back!
When a water pressure
reducing valve is desired for irrigation purposes, Rain Bird's PRV
pressure regulator provides quality, performance and economy.
Reduces high inlet pressures to lower outlet pressures.
Industrial-strength
glass-filled nylon globe valve with self-cleaning scrubber and
stainless steel screen for reliable performance in dirty water
applications.
The quick coupler kit
allows homeowners a convenient source of water without an unsightly
hose bib. Applications include near a driveway for washing cars or
adjacent to a garden plot.
Complete 1" kits
provide automatic control of a drip zone when connected to a timer.
Conveniently prepackaged with everything you need including remote
control valve, in-line filter, ball valve and pressure regulator.
Valve Installation and
Operation Manuals
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Operation manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
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this page is updated often, so check back!
When a water pressure
reducing valve is desired for irrigation purposes, Rain Bird's PRV
pressure regulator provides quality, performance and economy.
Reduces high inlet pressures to lower outlet pressures.
Industrial-strength
glass-filled nylon globe valve with self-cleaning scrubber and
stainless steel screen for reliable performance in dirty water
applications.
The quick coupler kit
allows homeowners a convenient source of water without an unsightly
hose bib. Applications include near a driveway for washing cars or
adjacent to a garden plot.
Complete 1" kits
provide automatic control of a drip zone when connected to a timer.
Conveniently prepackaged with everything you need including remote
control valve, in-line filter, ball valve and pressure regulator.
Toro
Controller Manuals
and Spec Pages
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manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
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Green Keeper Product Manual
Toro GreenKeeper? 212 Controller 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 or 12 Stations The
GreenKeeper? 212 controller is worth another look. With a new look
and added features, it's even more of a value.
Turf Pro Series Controller Featuring 6, 9, 12 station, indoor&
Outdoor, It offers an easy to use interface, optional EZ-Remote hand
held capability and durability with reliable SurgePro surge
protection.
Rotor Sprinkler
Installation
and Adjustment Manuals
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installation or adjustment manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at .
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Acclaimed for its superior performance and recognized for its graceful
"fingers of water," the Toro 340 Stream Rotor is even
better. Standard Omni nozzle and arc tree with choice of nine plastic
arc discs.
These precision-engineered, gear-driven sprinklers are an extremely
popular choice for high performance at a terrific value. For all
medium-to-large residential and commercial applications.
Arc adjustable from the top (30-360?) 6 main nozzles and 2 inner
nozzles provided with each sprinkler Screw-in nozzles - no adjustment
screw required for retention Color-coded nozzles provide easy
identification Full 4" pop-up.
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Toro Rain Switch Automatic
Rain Sensor
(No Manual Currently Available)
Monitors rainfall levels
and overrides controller to prevent unnecessary irrigation
Toro Valve Installation and
Operation Manuals
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Operation manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
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Highly versatile residential/commercial valves for use in
light-to-moderate debris water. Three activation types for easy
design, installation and maintenance.
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manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
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Available in 6,9,and 12 station models indoor & Outdoor. Dial
based programming. Large, easy to read liquid crystal display.
Non-volatile memory retains programs in the event of a power outage.
A 4 zone base model which is expandable up to 16 zones. This
controller is for both indoor and outdoor use. Non-volatile memory retains programs in the event of a power outage.
Weathermatic
Remote
Control Manuals
and Spec Pages
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Optional Weathermatic remote control offers wireless link to controller. Good up to 600ft. (line of sight). FOR WEATHERMATIC WEATHERMATE CONTROLLER ONLY.
Weathermatic
Sensor Manuals
and Spec Pages
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manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
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Weathermatic
Rain-Stat (Auto Rain Sensor
(No Manual Currently Available)
Monitors rainfall levels
and overrides controller to prevent unnecessary irrigation
Sprinkler Warehouse's How To Resources for Do-It-Yourselfers!
Just in case you need help installing, replacing, or adjusting parts, we are here to help!
Click on the icons below to view more information about that item! Installations - FREE Do It Yourself Information from Sprinkler Warehouse
Susceptible to vandalism (particularly surface systems)
Potential of salt build up (at perimeter of wetted area)
Potential of clogging (from calcium deposits in water or contaminants)
Filtration often required (to help reduce clogging)
Can't see drip working (compared to sprinklers)
Shoddy products (products are constantly being introduced, often disappearing after a few months. Failed products hard to replace or impossible to find or repair)
Slow learning curve process for the landscape industry:
Many irrigators are not comfortable with drip design
Many irrigators are not familiar with installation procedures of drip
Maintenance people are not familiar with drip system repair
Because the wetted area is much smaller when delivered by drip compared to sprinklers, control is more critical in application of water to avoid plant stress
Drip irrigation design seems to have two camps. One advocates that drip is very simple and easy to design and install. The second takes a more technical and practical approach, indicating that a certain level of expertise is required to design a properly functioning system.
Correctly
installed, remote-control irrigation valves provide years of trouble-free
operation. Diaphragm-type electronic valves are predominant in landscape
applications, as they seldom require new parts and their design minimizes
leaking.
There are specific installation steps that
should be taken to protect the irrigation equipment while providing
accessibility. Valve boxes, splice kits, multi-strand wire and other such
material play an important role in the success of automatic valve installation
and operation.
Place groups of valves, or manifolds,
according to the sprinkler zones that will irrigate specific areas of the
property. For example, all valves that operate the irrigation zones in the
back yard should be grouped together in a manifold. Logically, the same can
apply for front and side yards.
Locate the first valve manifold near the
main water connection. Manifolds should be installed a minimum 6 inches below
grade. This prevents equipment and traffic damage to the valves and lessens
the likelihood of vandalism or thievery. In addition, the valves are easier to
locate, operate, inspect and service if problems arise.
Manifolds should be encased in the
appropriately sized valve box with fitted arches for the mainline. You don't
want the weight of the valve box resting on any PVC or poly pipe. The box
should be buried to grade, with approximately 2 inches of rock in the bottom.
The valve manifold should rest atop the rock in the box to provide adequate
drainage away from any structures. If possible, disguise the box in the
landscape -- without compromising its accessibility.
After flushing the lines, screw the valve to
the manifold with a nipple or appropriate adapter. Note the direction of water
flow through the valve, generally indicated by arrows on the part. Never
overtighten the valve on the manifold, and always use teflon tape for threaded
parts, not pipe-joint compound. Once the valves are connected to the manifold,
the lateral sprinkle lines may then be attached with threaded male fittings
for PVC, or gear clamps for poly pipe.
Empowering Equipment
Electrically operated valves for landscape
applications usually require 24 volts to operate. Multi-colored multi-strand
jacketed wire helps to coordinate valve zones with controller stations. it's a
good idea to use multi-strand wire with one more wire than valves on the
manifold, to troubleshoot valve or controller problems or to add a zone later.
Be careful when mixing different brands of
valves and controllers. Inconsistent brands of valves and controllers can have
different draws and requirements. Ensure that the controller can supply enough
power for the valve to properly operate.
Attach a different colored wire to one wire
on each of the valves on the manifold and a single common wire to each of the
remaining solenoid wires on all of the valves on the manifold. It doesn't
matter which wire on the solenoids is used for the common.
Wire splices should be secured with a wire
nut and encased in a grease cap or other "dry-spliced" product.
Electrical or other tape or dipping the exposed wire in PVC cement is not
adequate and will create problems later. All splices should be accessible from
the valve box and free of any debris or matter.
Run your multi-strand wire to the
controller, generally in the same trench as the irrigation pipe. In areas
where there will be a lot of planting or digging, it is advisable to sleeve
the wire with PVC for protection. Affix the colored wire to the corresponding
station on the timer and the common wire to the common terminal on the
controller. Use standard 20-gauge sprinkler wire for distances less than 800
feet and 18-gauge wire for runs of 800-feet or more.
Most electronic remote control valves will
have a flow adjustment device on the bonnet. This feature enables the
irrigator to reduce flow and pressure to smaller zones and balance the
hydraulics of specific zones. After installation, close flow-control and
manual-bleed screws and handles. When the water is turned on the valve will
remain closed. After the valves pipe, fittings and heads have been installed,
turn the water supply on and check for leaks with the valves closed.
Turn the manual bleed screw to manually open
the valve and then open the flow control valve to adjust the sprinkler heads
to the desired coverage. Ensure that all of the heads are up and operating. If
any sprinkler heads are "fogging" at the nozzle, reduce the flow
until the fogging stops. Close the manual bleed screw and the valve is ready
to be operated by the controller.
With your automatic irrigation control
valves correctly installed and operating, you're ready to proceed with the
landscaping. The real test will come when the plant material is in and the
irrigation system must perform to sustain healthy flora.
The answers to the following questions:
When, how often, and how much should you water?
What happens if you do not water enough, what happens if you over
water?
Most grasses take on a dull, dark appearance and leaves
begin to roll when they need water. The best time to water is early
morning.
HOW MUCH TO WATER
Apply enough to wet the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches.
One to 1.5 inches of water is usually adequate. Use a soil probe or
screwdriver to determine the depth the water actually reaches.
Use a sprinkler that emits large drops of water that
remain close to the ground, not one that sprays fine mist into the
air.
Determine how much water your sprinkler applies:
Set 3 to 5 empty cans at different distances from
the sprinkler with the last can near the edge of sprinkler
coverage.
Run the sprinkler for 30 minutes.
Add the inches of water in all cans and dicide
the total inches by the number of cans to obtain an average.
Multiply the average by 2 to determine how many
inches of water are applied in 1 hour.
Locate your area on the map to find out how many
inches to apply every fifth day to bermudagrass during June, July,
and August. Guffalograss needs about 25% less water and St.
Augustine needs about 15% more.
Subtract any rainfall from the amounts given on the
map to determine how much water to apply.
The Advantages of Owning an
Automatic Sprinkler System
Many people say convenience is the biggest advantage to an automatic
system since they don't have to spend their time watering by hand or
moving the hose around the yard. Others say extended plant life and
lower water usage are the most important benefits. Still others believe
a sprinkler system is one of the best investments that they can make in
their home, since a home’s appearance is a key factor in determining
market value. And guess what -- they are all right!
Q. Will an automatic
sprinkler system use more water than I am currently using?
A. No. -- In fact, an automatic sprinkler
system will conserve water. You will never have to worry about runoff
from overwatering or about wasting water if you forget to turn off the
hose. Plus, with a Rain Bird moisture sensor your system will know when
it is raining and simply turn itself off when water is not needed.
Q. Does having a
sprinkler system really save time?
A. Yes. -- You won't have to spend
another minute of your valuable leisure time watering the lawn. Your new
system will do all the watering for you - even when you are away from
home!
Q. Will an automatic
sprinkler system water as well as I do when I water by hand?
A. An automatic sprinkler system will do
a much better job, because a professionally designed system delivers
exactly the right amount of water to specific lawn and garden areas.
Q. We generally get 40
or more inches of rainfall a year. Do we really need a sprinkler system?
A. If it rained at your house every three
days -- the same exact amount each time -- you probably would not need a
sprinkler system. But nature doesn't work that way, and the only way to
ensure healthy, lush yard is to make certain that your lawn and plants
receive a regularly timed and evenly measured amount of water. In the
dry season when there is little or no rain, your yard can suffer damage
after just a few days without water.
Q. Are there different
sprinkler systems from which to choose?
A. Although every system should be
tailored to meet one’s individual needs, a typical system is comprised
of a controller (which functions as the brains of the system), valves
(which open and close to release and stop the flow of water to
underground pipes) and sprinklers (which distribute water to specific
areas). It is best if all of a system’s components are manufactured by
the same company in order to ensure that they will work well together.
Unlike Rain Bird, most companies make only one or two components of a
complete system. However, Rain Bird, designs and manufactures all of the
major components that comprise a complete irrigation system. Rain Bird
also has a nationwide network of distributors that support contractors
who install Rain Bird systems.
Q. How do I know what
type of sprinkler system is best for me?
A. It is always best to work with a
professional irrigation contractor who is knowledgeable about factors
such as water source and pressure, soil type, planting materials, and
weather conditions. A professional will take all of this into
consideration when designing a system specific to the needs of your
landscape.
Q.
Can I save money by installing my own system?
A. No! In fact, it could cost you more
money in the long run. A professional irrigation contractor will design
and install the most cost-effective and energy-efficient system
possible. You can be confident that he will use the best equipment for
the job and effectively schedule any maintenance required to keep your
landscape in top shape.
He will pay special attention to
important factors such as sprinkler patterns (it is important to overlap
the patterns so that the outer edges receive sufficient water for
healthy growth) and backflow prevention (which is necessary to protect
your drinking water). Because your contractor is familiar with local
plumbing and electrical codes, you won't have to worry about costly pipe
installation or wiring mistakes. He can do the job faster -- with less
disruption to your existing landscape -- and will guarantee his work.
Q.
Will I have difficulty operating my sprinkler system?
A. Your contractor will help you select
the best controller for your needs, and he will program it with your
customized watering schedule. Your contractor will also explain the
system's operation to you. Then, ifnecessary, you will be able to easily
change the watering schedule by simply following the easy instructions
on the inside of the controller cabinet.
Q. How much will a good
sprinkler system cost?
A. The price of a system depends upon
many factors such as property size, type of landscaping, and special
designs. But you can count on your professional irrigation contractor to
design a cost-effective system comprised of quality Rain Bird products.
He will be familiar with Rain Bird's many professional series products
and will know how to put the right ones together in a system in order to
achieve maximum results. He also knows that Rain Bird, as well as its
nationwide distributor network, stands behind all of its products and is
serious about commitment to quality construction and after-sale service.
Like most people, you probably have many
questions that you would like to ask before finalizing your decision to
purchase an automatic sprinkler system. This information should provide
many answers for you, but please do not hesitate to ask your irrigation
contractor any additional questions that you may have.
Lawn Care
Info
Okay, so now you have a sprinkler
system....
but will that be enough to make your lawn the envy of the
neighborhood?
Probably not. You will have to take measures to
improve
your lawn's health.
So, we thought we would make things easy on you and
have
a list of the most commonly asked questions on improving your
lawn's overall health.
Please feel free to browse around.
We will be updating the
information as new products or techniques become
available.
(That is a hint for you to bookmark this page for future
reference...) If you have found other techniques,
please
us. Let us know...we are always learning and growing!
(Click on the topic you are interested
in... it will lead you to
the answers you desire).
Yard trimmings account for 20 to 50 percent of what's dumped in our
landfills. That makes home composting a real space saver. As an added bonus,
compost turns leaves and other yard trimmings into a soil-like material that
can be used on your lawn as a topdressing or your garden to aerate your soil,
aid in drainage and return valuable nutrients back to the earth.
Your compost bin plays host to a varied cast of characters. Bacteria eat
the easily digested organic material, fungi eat the hard-to-digest material
and earthworms, pill bugs and centipedes aerate all of it. The process takes
anywhere from several weeks to a year and leaves a pile of soil-like
material about half the size of the original.
Finished compost can be used as is for mulch or thoroughly mixed in with
your garden soil to improve its texture, build up organic matter and improve
its water retaining ability.
I think it's easiest to begin with yard trimmings alone. My personal
recipe calls for a mixture that's 50 to 75 percent brown material (dried
leaves, grass and old prunings) and 25 to 50 percent green material (recent
prunings, leaves and freshly cut grass). Then I add wood chips, twigs and
branches to provide air space and drainage, and enough moisture to get the
pile working. For faster composting, you can add a little compost
accelerator which can speed the natural composting process as it adds
natural enzymes and microorganisms to help grass and leaves break down
quicker. Then mix well and let the compost cook. This reduces the size of
your compost pile so you can add more materials each week. Oh yes, while you
can compost in an open pile, I'd suggest a bin. (It makes the process
tidier.)
First and foremost, make sure your compost bin is big enough for your
composting needs. Color makes a difference too. I'd stick with a black bin
as it absorbs more heat for faster composting. Look for mixing slots to make
aerating your compost easy and bottom access so you can remove your finished
compost.
Do
I need to keep each of my compost materials in separate layers?
No! While you should line the bin's bottom with dried grass, hay or
shredded paper, that's all the layering you want. Add other compostable
materials and mix well.
While turning the compost pile isn't absolutely necessary, it will speed
the process and ensure that the whole pile is broken down, not just the
center.
It depends on the composting method you choose and what you put in your
bin. However, most commercial bins that have been fed a mix of water, dead
leaves and garden clippings will produce finished compost in roughly 3 to 6
months.
Is
it okay to add materials to a compost bin in the winter?
Yes, feel free to add materials to your bin throughout the year. Of
course your compost process will slow down in the winter, and sometimes stop
altogether, but the freeze/thaw cycle helps to break down materials and
makes them decompose faster in the spring when the pile really gets going
again.
Well, generally speaking compost accelerators aren't absolutely
necessary, but they sure can speed things along. I strongly recommend an
accelerator if you're planning to start your compost this winter.
Compost piles only smell bad when something is going wrong. Bad odor
usually means that the compost is not getting enough air. You can fix this
by turning the pile or aerating it in some other way, like fluffing
materials and poking air holes with a broom handle. Then add a layer of soil
to absorb the odors.
If your ingredients aren't decaying, you're looking at one of four
possible causes: your pile is too small and simply not generating enough heat,
the compost needs more nitrogen, the compost is too dry, or the materials you
put into the pile are just too big.
If the distinct smell of ammonia is coming from your compost bin, odds are
you've got too much nitrogen in the mix. Correcting the problem is easy: just
add carbon-rich materials such as leaves.
If your lawn has a light covering of leaves, you might be able to allow
them to remain. Even so, I recommend shredding. Several passes using a mower
with a leaf-shredding attachment will improve your chances for success. But
even when shredded, it doesn't take many leaves to smother your grass. Bottom
line: most people need to remove at least some leaves from the lawn.
Basically, you have two options- the hard way or the easy way. You can
remove your leaves with a rake, which is time consuming and may be hard on
your back or you can use a leaf blower which is much faster and easier on your
back.
Make sure the blower is comfortable to hold on to - many models are
surprisingly heavy. Controls on the blower should be easy to reach and allow
engine speed to be varied smoothly. And make sure you've got enough horsepower
to get the job done. Finally, consider any add-ons you might need such as
vacuum attachments. Additional shredding action can reduce up to 10 bags
of leaves to one for easy disposal or mulch. And, it easily converts from
blower to aggressive vacuum when needed.
Your leaf disposal options vary from state to state - and are increasingly
limited. Many states have banned burning and many landfills won't accept them.
Fortunately, many cities now offer off- site disposal, whether you pay a fee
to your private refuse hauler or drop them off at a community pick-up program.
Barring these options, you can also put the leaves to
use around your own home. Leaves make excellent mulch around trees, shrubs
and planting beds. They're also a great addition to your compost pile.
Absolutely! Shredding is not required, but it will speed the rate of
decomposition. Keep in mind that leaves are difficult to compost alone, so
you'll need to add some form of nitrogen. Good sources of nitrogen include a
fertilizer (no weed 'n feed products), or materials high in nitrogen such as
lawn clippings.
Yes! Leaves make excellent mulch - especially around trees and shrubs, or
in flower and vegetable gardens. They retard weed growth, retain soil
moisture, and even protect against temperature fluctuations and some types of
winter injury. As an added benefit, leaves decompose over time, adding
valuable nutrients to your soil.
Is
there a 'homebrew' that can help to keep my lawn healthy and the insects away
from my yard?
Jerry Baker, well known for his yard care advice, has a recipe. Mixture
consists of one cup of liquid dish soap, preferably lemon scented, one cup of
mouthwash, preferably mint flavored, and one cup of tobacco juice mixture (the
tobacco juice mixture is made by putting "thumb and 3 fingers" worth
of chewing tobacco in the toe of a nylon stocking; secure it tightly, then
marinate in one quart of boiling water. The remaining unused mixture can be
stored in a glass jar, but DO NOT put the lid on tight since the mixture
ferments and would explode the jar). The mixture is then sprayed on the yard
at a rate of one teaspoon mixture to a quart, one tablespoon to a gallon and
one cup to 20 gallons.
What
can I do to get grass to grow in the shady areas of my yard? Shade resulting from tree canopies creates several problems for turf
grasses, including reduced light and competition for water and nutrients. The
result is usually shallow rooted turf that is more susceptible to drought
stress, wear and disease infestations. Generally, mowing heights should be
increase for turf grasses growing in heavy shade. Watering must be greater in
tree shade during the summer to compensate for that utilized by tree roots.
Nitrogen fertilization of turf grasses in dense shade should be much less than
in full sunlight. In some cases where tree canopies are very dense and low
growth shrubs or brush screen the lawn, it may be necessary to selectively
prune limbs and remove shrubs or brush. Root pruning of shallow rooted trees
will also improve conditions for turf grasses growing under trees.
Will
the crabapples that have fallen from my trees damage my lawn? Remove any fallen apples from the lawn as insects are often attracted to
ripened or diseased fruit.
A layer or organic mulch on the soil under trees and shrubs protects them
from lawn mowers and string trimmers, discourages weeds, holds in moisture,
cools the soil, conditions the soil and look attractive. Of all these,
however, the most important role of the circle of mulch around plant stems or
trunks is the protective one. Once injured by a lawn mower, string trimmer, or
other yard care equipment, the tree is at risk. There is no way to fix the
wound and it is likely to provide access to insects and disease into the
interior of the tree or shrub. It may be years before the effects of the
injury are apparent, but this type of damage is the single most common cause
of tree decline. Effective mulch is about 3 to 4 inches after it settles down.
Spread it in a circle at least 24 inches in radius; it should not come closer
than 2 to 4 inches to the stem or trunk. If shrubs are grouped, mulch the
entire group together.
Pruning helps to improve the health of the tree. By removing dead or
decaying limbs, which can attract insects and disease, and stimulating new
growth. Thinning will let more light come through as well as provide better
air circulation which helps to prevent disease.
They need good light and air circulation to be healthy and thrive and
pruning accomplishes this. Follow up immediately by fertilizing with a good
slow-release fertilizer and plenty of water. Spring flowering shrubs, such as
lilacs, forsythia and weigela should be pruned just after they bloom. This
avoids cutting off buds that formed last season. Shrubs that bloom later, such
as cotoneaster, viburnum, dogwood and winterberry, should be pruned in late
winter to allow them to have time to form flower buds on this season's new
growth. Prune conifers, such as heather and mountain laurel, just after the
new growth is completed, usually in late spring or early summer. Evergreens,
such as arborvitae, holly, and juniper should be pruned in late winter.
Fertilize them at least once a year. The best time to feed most trees and
shrubs is the late fall just when the leaves are beginning to drop. Tree
fertilizers tend to be higher in nitrogen than they are in phosphorous and
potassium. A good ratio for fertilizing a tree or shrub is something around a
3-1-2 ratio (N-P-K).
What can I do if tree roots
are appearing in my lawn?
Tree roots need to release carbon dioxide and obtain the oxygen they need
in order to grow. If the roots are in compacted soil with little oxygen, they
tend to grow upward toward the surface, or they die. If a lawn has never been
aerated and has established trees or shrubs, it will most likely have
compacted soil. Aerate the lawn around the trees and establish a grass-free
ring around their trunks. Cover the area with 3 or 4 inches of an attractive
organic mulch.
How
will I know when my trees and shrubs need water?
When it has been hot, rainfall has been minimal over several weeks, and
your flower beds and lawn have required regular watering. This is when they
need a good summer soaking. In northern areas a final watering about a month
after the first frost and before the ground freezes hard will help fend off
dehydration which is the major cause of 'winterkill'.
Proper design of your landscape can help keep your yard healthy. Choose
disease-resistent grasses, provide walkways to prevent soil compaction, select
trees and shrubs that are appropriate for the area so as to allow proper air
circulation, adequate sunlight and winter protection if in northern areas.
The condition of the soil under your
grass is the most important element to the overall health of your lawn.
Healthy soil can prevent lots of problems and reduce your use of fertilizer
and pesticides.
About half of the volume of a healthy
soil is composed of mineral particles and organic matter. The other half of
the volume is taken up with air and water (about 50/50). Soil maintenance
involves a steady source of new organic material and/or fertilizer, pH
balance, and aeration. When the soil has sufficient air, water, minerals and
organic material, it can support the life of microorganisms which produce
valuable plant nutrients and help eliminate thatch through decomposition. By
taking care of your soil, you have taken the first step in attaining a
healthy lawn.
Get your soil tested first, then
correct any nutrient deficiencies that show up, improve the structure of the
soil by adding amendments and adjust the pH if necessary.
Absolutely! The only way to evaluate
your lawn's fertility is by testing the soil. Based on the test results, you
may need to add amendments to improve the soil structure, correct soil
problems like phosphorus or potassium deficiencies, or change your soil's pH
level. This is important information when choosing a fertilizer as they
raise or lower the pH depending on their ingredients. Without a soil test,
you could be paying a lot for special fertilizers that contain trace
elements/nutrients that are already present in your soil, or not buying the
fertilizers that could provide the nutrients lacking in your soil.
Contact your local county extension
office for sample, forms, bags and instructions or contact a commercial
landscape service. Be sure to take several samples around the lawn and that
each sample comes from a slice of soil that is 4 to 6 inches deep. Avoid
areas that have received special treatment or may have been exposed to
different environmental circumstances (eg. Lawn areas near sidewalks or
roads that receive heavy doses of de-icing salts).
The pH level of your soil determines
the rate at which nutrients are available to plant roots. The pH scale
ranges from 1 to 14, with 7.0 indicating neutral. An extreme pH prevents the
plants from getting the nutrients they need. Most grasses do best with a
soil pH between 6 and 7.
When pH exceeds 8.0, iron and manganese
are no longer available to the grass. You can correct this condition with
sulfur at 25 pounds per 1000 square feet to lower the pH one point -- from 8
to 7 for example. Ammonium sulfate can also help.
To neutralize acidic or
"sour" soils, I recommend applying dolomite limestone. However,
don't apply lime to established lawns unless a soil test indicates a real
need. Excess lime can be just as harmful as a deficiency. If pH has dropped
to 5.5 or lower, apply finely ground limestone at rates up to 50 pounds per
1000 square feet to raise the pH level on point -- from 5.5 to 6.5 for
example. Use 10 to 15 pounds less for light, sandy soils, and more for
heavier loam or clay types. Limestone can be applied almost any time, but
fall or early winter is best. If a large amount is needed, you can apply
one-half in early spring and the other half in the fall.
Back To Top
Can I mix my lime and
fertilizer together in the spreader?
Definitely not! Lime should be applied
separately from fertilizers containing ammonia since they react together and
subsequently release ammonia gas which is toxic to grass. Apply lime two
weeks on either side of nitrogen application.
The label on a bag of
fertilizer often lists several different types of nitrogen. What does
this mean?
The more varieties of nitrogen used,
the better the product. Each source of nitrogen becomes available at
different intervals. The faster it releases, the greater the chances of
grass burn. Here is a list of the most common nitrogen sources and their
speed of release:
Most nitrogen in the
soil is present as part of organic matter. Plants can only
use this nitrogen after it has been decomposed by soil
organisms. The decay of lawn clippings, plant roots and
other organic materials provides some usable nitrogen, but
the amount is only about 25% of what is needed to maintain
the vigorous growth desired in most lawns. That's why
nitrogen-containing fertilizers are usually required.
Back To Top
What's the
difference in nitrogen forms?
There are two basic
categories of nitrogen fertilizer -- soluable and slow
release. Soluable fertilizers are available quickly to
plants (even at low temperatures), stimulate rapid growth
and are depleted quickly. To maintain uniform growth over
a long period of time and to prevent possible burning,
you'll need to make frequent, light applications of the
materials. Slow release nitrogen sources depend on soil
bacteria or moisture to gradually decompose the materials
and transform the compounds into usable forms of nitrogen.
Consequently, they release nitrogen to the grass over a
longer period of time.
Back To Top
If
nitrogen is the most important ingredient in fertilizer, why do I need anything else?
Because otherwise
your grass will die. It's true that nitrogen is critical,
but you also need other nutrients to make you lawn look
good. Nitrogen makes lawns green, phosphorous promotes
good roots, potassium is a disease fighter, calcium
promotes root-hair growth, magnesium is a big part of
chlorophyl, sulfur helps seeds form, boron improves the
yield, copper makes enzymes work harder, manganese
stimulates germination, molybdenum makes nitrogen enzymes
work harder, and zinc is needed for chlorophyll and
growth.
How much
phosphorus and potassium should I apply to my lawn?
That depends on your
soil's ability to provide these two nutrients. The only
way to determine how much phosphorus and potassium your
lawn needs is to have your soil tested.
If my soil
lacks iron, how do I apply it and how much do I use?
Iron deficiency, or
iron chlorosis, that's detected by a soil test may be
corrected by applying iron sulfate or iron chelate. Iron
sulfate (copperas) may be applied at the rate of 8 ounces
in 5 gallons of water per 1000 square feet. One and
one-half ounces of home detergent should be added to
assure good grass blade coverage. Repeat applications will
likely be necessary at 4 to 6 week intervals. Where
chlorosis is not severe, 5 pounds of iron sulfate or one
pound of chelated iron per 1000 square feet applied alone
as dust or in mixture with fertilizer may correct the
problem. Choice of the type and grade of fertilizer
material to use depends on the price, availability and
ease of handling.
Trace elements
include chelated calcium, ferric nitrate as soluable iron,
potassium nitrate, magnesium sulfate and sodium silicate.
Seaweed extract provides some 60 trace elements that help
the plant absorb nutrients more effectively from the soil
and it makes the fertilizer you use work better. Seaweed
(kelp) also makes plants much more resistant to drought
and disease. Check the contents on the fertilizer bag
label to see if these trace elements have been added.
Good soil structure
is a balanced mixture of space between particles to hold
air and water necessary for your lawn to thrive. This in
turn helps retain moisture and nutrients for good root
development, provides drainage of excessive water to avoid
disease and the soil is less likely to become compacted or
stressed which helps your lawn remain healthy. A healthy
lawn can better resist insect attack and weed infestation.
Also, the necessary amounts of nutrients, such a
fertilizer and lime, vary depending on the type of soil
they are used on.
Clay soil is
sometimes referred to as 'heavy soil'. It contains
little air and water does not drain easily through it.
Sandy soil is
sometimes referred to as 'light soil'. Water flows
quickly through it, as well as fertilizer and other
nutrients.
Silt is between
that of sand and clay.
Loam is a
balanced mixture of clay, silt and sand with organic
matter. It consists of about 50% open pore space that
can be filled with air and water. This is the best
soil structure.
A professional soil
test will indicate your type of soil, but to get a rough
idea, try using the jar test. Fill a glass jar with a
screw-on lid, such as a mayonnaise jar, one-third full of
soil that's taken 2 to 4 inches below the surface. Pack it
in and mark the soil level on the outside of the jar. Add
water until the jar is aboutthree-fourths full. Screw on
the cap and shake vigorously for several minutes. Set the
jar down to allow the soil to settle overnight or even a
few days until the water starts to clear. The sand will go
to the bottom first, then silt, then the clay. The top
layer will be organic matter. Measure the depth of the
silt and sand layers and compare them to the original soil
level. This will give you an idea of the percentage of
each of these soil types. Subtract the two values from 100
and the remainder is the percentage of clay.
Here is a general guideline to determine the soil's
composition:
Sandy soils - 35% or more sand, less than 15% silt
and clay;
Clay soils - 30% or more clay, less than 50% silt,
less than 50% sand;
Loam soils - less than 20% clay, 30-50% silt,
30-50% sand.
Improving the soil is
the first step to having a healthy lawn. By adding
amendments to improve soil texture as a topdressing,
correcting the pH of the soil to be between 6 and 7 for
most grasses, and properly aerate when necessary to
eliminate soil compaction.
Many lawns,
particularly those that receive heavy use, have compacted
soil. A footpath worn into your lawn is a visible example
of compaction. Compacted soil result in shallow-rooted
lawns starved for air and water. These lawns are
particularly susceptible to disease, insect and
environmental stresses.
Aerate your lawn.
Aeration consists of making small holes in the soil that
allow water, air and fertilizer to get closer to the
roots. As an added bonus, aerating also helps control
thatch.
Yes, by encouraging
earthworms. They are natural aerators and are beneficial
to the soil. They also help control thatch. As they tunnel
through the soil, the worms often leave casts on the
surface that make the lawn bumpy and difficult to mow. Let
your grass grow a little longer so the castings will be
hidden. If an absolutely smooth surface is necessary, use
a vertical slicing machine to help break up the casts and
smooth the surface.
Poor drainage,
failure to turn green after fertilizing and the presence
of many worn areas all signal the need to aerate.
Aerification is best done in the cool weather of late
summer. By aerifying then, the lawn recovers quickly and
is completely healed by winter. Turf soil should be
aerated at least once a year on heavily compacted or clay
soils. At a minimum, lawns should be aerated at least once
every 3 to 5 years.
Another yard care
practice to promote healthy soil is the use of topdressing
to smooth the surface, to help decompose thatch and reduce
compaction of the soil. Topdressing contains nutrients and
microorganisms which stimulate the grass growth and
promote thatch decomposition. Topdressing is usually
worked into the turf after application by dragging with a
steel mat, raking or brushing.
Gypsum is a mined
product, which is a form of hydrated calcium sulfate, and
will give at least three benefits.
Condition
sticky-clay loam soil. Gypsum will greatly improve
water and air penetration, promote root growth and
improve plant vigor where it was previously limited.
It will loosen up and improve soil structure of clay
and compacted soils.
Add nutrients
-- sulfur and calcium.
Aid the removal
of sodium (salt) from clay and silt particles. It also
may reduce the pH of the soil.
Warm-season grasses
are best for areas where frost is a
rare phenomenon. These grasses grow vigorously in the
warm summer months. But when the weather turns cooler,
warm-season grasses go dormant,
turning yellow or brown.
Sodding has the advantage of almost
immediate establishment. Choose high-quality sod that is actively growing.
Sod is perishable and should not remain on the pallet or stack for more than
36 hours. The presence of mildew and distinct yellowing of the leaves is
usually good evidence of reduced turf vigor from being stacked too long.
To lay the sod, start with a
straight edge such as a driveway or sidewalk. Unroll sod pieces tightly against each other, but don't
overlap. Using a sharp knife, cut pieces to fit curves or small areas.
After the sod has been laid, roll it
to ensure good contact with the soil. Be sure to water thoroughly, and water every
day.
Plugging is planting plugs of grass
at measured intervals. The plugs are usually 2 1/2 inches in diameter and
about 2-3 inches long. Cores of soil the same size as the plugs should be
removed to ensure good soil contact with the plug.
Plugs are usually placed 6 to 12
inches apart. Zoysia develops slowly and its advisable to set Zoysia plugs
6-9 inches apart so the lawn fills in faster. Place fertilizer into the
holes before putting the plugs in the hole. Also the plugs should be dropped
into a bucket of water before placing them in the holes. Press the plug
firmly into the hole to ensure good soil contact. Keep the plugs moist for
2-3 weeks after planting.
Planting plugs 2-3 inches in
diameter into 12 inch centers would require 30 to 50 square feet of sod for
a 1,000 sq. ft. area.
Sprigs are stolons or rhizomes that
root when planted in the soil. The spacing interval of sprigs is determined
by the rate of spread of the grass and how fast coverage is desired. Sprigs
must be pressed in firmly. Bermuda, St. Augustine and Centipede sprigs are
usually placed 12 inches apart on 12 inch rows. Zoysia is usually placed 6
inches apart on 6 inch rows. Bermuda will spread fast and cover a lawn under
good growing conditions in one season. Zoysia may need a year or two to
cover the lawn. Zoysia needs to be more carefully planted.
Rapid spread of sods, plugs and
sprigs is faster when closely mowed which encourages the spread of grass and
reduced competition from weeds and other unwanted grasses.
New warm season lawns require
watering one or two times a day. Begin irrigation immediately after laying sod, sprigging or plugging.
Plan your operation so that a section of laid sod can immediately be watered
while other areas are being planted. Sod should be watered so that the sod
strip is wet as well as the top 1 inch of soil below the sod.
The first irrigation requires about
1 inch of water to achieve complete wetting of the sod. After watering, lift
up pieces of sod at several locations to determine if it has been adequately
irrigated.
Continue watering one to two times a day with light
irrigations
to prevent wilting and to ensure a moist soil just below the sod layer. As
sod becomes established and roots penetrate and grow in the soil, gradually
reduce the frequency of watering but wet the soil deeper.
After sod has been
mowed two or three times water deeply and infrequently. During hot, windy
conditions, establishing sod may require several light mistings per day to
prevent wilt and potentially high lethal temperatures. In this case, mist
the sod lightly just to wet the leaf surface and not to supply water to the
soil. Misting cools the grass plant as water is evaporated from the leaves.
Do not over-irrigate the soil
because that will inhibit sod roots from growing into the soil. In
situations where daily watering is not possible, thoroughly water the sod
and soil to a depth of 6 inches. This will delay the rooting time of sod but
will reduce the chance of rapid drying and severe loss of grass.
Water in the early morning (before sunrise) when water pressure is
greatest, evaporation is minimal and the lawn drinks in the most water. Do
not water in the evening because water will sit on the lawn and may cause
disease. Do not water in the heat of the day because the sun will evaporate
water before it can soak in. To water your lawn efficiently, you need to
provide the right amount of water, evenly distributed, in the right places
and at the right time.
There are three things to consider: the weather, the type of soil and the
depth of roots.
Weather is the most obvious factor.
When it's hotter you'll need to water more frequently. In the summer you'll
probably need to water every other day, if not every day (depending, of
course, on where you live).
The type of soil affects how much
water is available for the grass to use. Heavy (clay) soils hold the most
water, meaning you'll probably water less frequently. Sandy soils do not
hold water well, so you'll water them more often. Deeper roots mean there is
more available water for the grass and, therefore, you'll need to water less
frequently. Think of the soil as a sponge that holds water for the grass.
The deeper the sponge, the more water it can hold. It is wise to establish
watering practices that encourage deep root growth. This allows lawns to go
longer between watering, cutting down on disease potential and, ultimately,
the amount of water you'll use.
This will be driven by the weather. Water is lost from your lawn through
a process called evapotranspiration. Evapotranspiration--usually referred to
as "ET"-- is the combined effect of water used by the plant and
that which is lost to evaporation. ET is expressed in inches (or mm) of
water per week. Your watering schedule should be set up to replace the water
lost to ET. Check with your local university extension for ET rates in your
area. Many areas publish ET rates in the daily press.
Water should penetrate to the depth of the roots (fill the root zone) or
to the depth that roots are desired. This should be at least six inches. The
next scheduled watering should occur when about half of the water is used
via ET. Allowing much more loss could result in plant stress (see below).
If too much water is allowed to leave the soil, your lawn will not be
able to extract what's left for its own use, leading to stress. This makes
the grass weak and susceptible to physical damage, insect damage and
disease.
More lawns are harmed by too much water than not enough. Over watering
causes nutrients to be flushed away, resulting in higher fertilizer
requirements. Over watering also displaces oxygen from the soil, which leads
to shallow roots and a lawn that is disease prone and weed infested.
If your lawn can't get enough water it will first go into a dormant
stage, often marked by a bluish color. If the drought continues until the
soil water is fully used, death will result for most cool-season grasses.
Bermudas and other warm-season grasses will probably recover, however, the
lawn's quality will not.
What are the
elements of an automatic irrigation system?
Controller/Timer
The controller, or timer, is the brain of your system, telling your
sprinklers what day, what time and exactly how much to water.
Valves
Installed above or below the ground, usually near the water source, valves
regulate water flow to the sprinklers.
Pressure Vacuum Breaker
(PVB) PVBs prevent water from your sprinkler system (and therefore any
fertilizer or chemical contaminants) from re-entering the clean water
supply. Toro® manufactures several pressure vacuum devices to meet your
local building code specifications.
Lawn Sprinklers
Installed in a special pattern for complete and even coverage, a properly
designed automatic sprinkler system delivers precise coverage without gaps
or runoff.
Rain Switch (Optional)
A Rain Switch signals your system to shut off automatically when it's
raining. There's no sense watering when nature is doing its part. The Rain
Switch is a highly reliable and inexpensive option that saves countless
gallons of water.
The type of sprinkler you use really depends on what's being watered.
There are five basic sprinkler types: fixed sprays, flood bubblers, stream
bubblers, single-stream rotors and multi-stream rotors.
Fixed-spray sprinklers
produce a
tight, constant fan of water ideal for small lawn, shrub and ground cover
areas. Pop-up models pop up above grasses and disappear when not in use.
Shrub sprays are mounted above foliage to water ground cover and shrubs.
Flood bubblers produce a flow of
water that soaks the soil without wetting the leaves. They're ideal for tree
wells, planters and shrubs.
Stream bubblers are for efficient
watering of small planter beds and shrubs areas. Stream bubblers are
available in a variety of patterns.
Gear-driven, single-stream rotary sprinklers cover large lawn areas
most efficiently. Some single-stream rotors have an arc adjustment for
placement in corners. Like other pop-up sprinklers, they pop up above
grasses and disappear when not in use.
Gear-driven, multi-stream rotary
sprinklers produce thin, attractive streams of water that slowly rotate to
ensure proper penetration for medium-sized lawn and shrub areas.
Multi-stream, pop-up lawn and shrub models are excellent for lawns or ground
cover--especially on slopes.
What
are the advantages of an automatic sprinkler system?
Convenience.
How many times have you forgotten to water your lawn, then over
watered--only to end up with brown spots and muddy puddles? Like many
homeowners, you could be using up to 50% more water than your landscape
needs. Which isn't good for your pocketbook or for your lawn. The solution
isn't to use more water, but to water more precisely. An automatic sprinkler
system can give you a healthy, green lawn--and more free time to enjoy the
beautiful results. An Automatic Sprinkler System takes the work and
worry out of watering your lawn. You can forget about tripping over hoses or
sprinklers, fixing leaky faucets and hauling hoses around the yard. While
you're enjoying the ball game, your lawn enjoys the right amount of water,
in the right spots, at the right time.
Greener lawns and gardens.
Hose-end products simply cannot match the performance of a properly
installed irrigation system. Adjustable sprinklers allow you to fine-tune
coverage and minimize waste.
More efficient watering.
An automatic system delivers gentle, even watering for a more thorough
soaking. There's less runoff and wasted water. The system can be programmed
to water at the best time, early in the morning.
Attractive.
Pop-up sprinklers stay out of sight when not in use. All you need to do
is enjoy your lawn.
Improves your home.
Installing a Automatic Sprinkler System immediately adds value to
your home. It also protects your gardening and landscaping investment and
keeps it growing while saving time and water.
These are some questions that will lead you to the pages
concerning Weeds, Insects, and other yard pests. They are meant to assist you in understanding what kinds of
information you are looking for and where you can find the answers. All of
the pages contain useful information, in addition to the questions listed here.
Now you are ready to install your sprinkler system. But how do
you it? Where do you start? Where do you need to place the sprinkler
heads? Well, we have put together a little tutorial for you, to assist you
with the installation.
Install-Tips! Proper installation of a system's components is critical
for a cost-efficient, easily maintained, water-conserving, long-lasting system.
Safety and reduced liability are also dependent on good installation practices.
Before beginning an installation job, check the static and operating water
pressure, flow rate and the size of the water supply to verify that design
conditions are the same as actual site conditions.
Valves. Install the zone control valve with the flow control completely open or
turned down one or two turns (if required by the valve manufacturer), and the
top of the flow control 4 inches below the finished grade. This allows the valve
box lid to clear the valves while providing good access for maintenance work.
Place a resilient seated gate valve upstream of the zone control valve for easy
repair and maintenance of the control valve as well as for emergency shut-off.
If quick couplers are needed, place these within the valve box, upstream of the
isolation valve so they can be easily located in the future.
Place 4 to 6 inches of clean, washed gravel under the valve boxes for good
drainage. Install filter fabric under the gravel and attach it to the valve box
with duct tape. This fabric keeps the soil from working its way up through the
gravel, or silting in along the pipe and forming a mud hole. Install the valve
boxes flush with the finished grade and lightly compact the adjacent soil to
prevent settlement. Always install sturdy valve boxes to withstand pressure from
mowing and maintenance equipment.
Many rectangular valve box lids are difficult to remove and replace because
the two longest walls cave in when excessive pressure is placed against the
wall. A piece of rigid PVC pipe can be placed within the valve box between these
two walls to brace them and prevent a cave-in.
Never install valves in low areas where water can collect, or close to
driveways or sidewalks where automobile damage and pedestrian safety is a
concern. Brand all valve box lids with the control valve number or other
appropriate identifiers such as MD for manual drain or IV for isolation valve.
Plastic identification tags can be attached to the valve in case the lids get
switched. Most valve box lids can be bolted in place to help prevent vandalism.
When vandalism is a problem, the valve boxes can be buried with 6 to 8 inches of
soil. Use a brass valve or a metal foil to allow locating with a metal detector.
Coil 2 to 3 feet of control wire around a 1-inch diameter pipe prior to
connecting it to the solenoid to allow for valve bonnet removal, and to protect
the solenoid from potential electrical surges.
For better performance, the drip emitter valve assembly should be installed
as follows: Install the filter first to keep the rest of the components clean.
The filter should have a pressure rating of 125 to 150 psi. Install the strainer
with an easy access flush valve on the top. Next install a fixed-rate,
pressure-reducing valve upstream from the zone control valve. If installed
downstream, pressure surges can occur within the space of time that the
regulator takes to set itself after the water is turned on. Surges can blow
emitters out of the lines as well as blow apart pipe and fittings.
A ¼-inch outlet tee with an air valve placed downstream of the control valve
is helpful to diagnose future system problems using a pressure gauge.
Isolation valves are necessary in larger systems to shut down portions for
repair without shutting off the entire system. Isolating portions of the system
will make pressure testing for leaks and leak detection much easier.
Quick coupler valves should be securely attached to 2-inch by 2-inch by
30-inch treated wood stakes, or rebar driven into the soil. This will support
the valve when the coupler key is inserted, and prevent damage to the pipe and
fittings.
Any valve, other than the control valves, installed below grade should be
installed in a 4- to 6-inch diameter PVC pipe access sleeve for valve control.
Pipe should be cut out on one end to better fit over the pipe/valve and prevent
the sleeve from shifting away from the valve. Center the sleeve on the valve
operator and set it vertically with a 10-inch round valve box at the surface.
The larger size sleeve makes it much easier to vacuum or pick stones out of the
system.
Backflow preventers should be placed inside buildings or in shrub beds
screened with planting whenever possible. If the backflow preventer is installed
in a turf area, pour a 4-inch thick concrete pad that is 12 inches greater than
the backflow and/or preventer enclosure to act as a mowing strip.
At Keesen Water Management, backflow preventer enclosures are included on
every design project except single family homes. They prevent people from
shutting off valves, opening petcocks and breaking valve handles by hiding the
temptation from view.
For protection, backflow preventers close to driveways or streets should have
4-inch or larger diameter galvanized pipe filled and set 30 inches deep in
concrete with a diameter of 24 inches. Insulated enclosures will protect the
backflow preventer from freeze damage in the early spring and late fall.
Most flow sensors and meters require a minimum straight pipe length equal to
10 times the nominal diameter of the pipe on the upstream side, and up to 5
times the diameter on the downstream side. If valves or fittings are too close
to the sensor, the accuracy will lessen due to the turbulence in the pipe.
An air valve should be installed downstream of every pressure-reducing valve to
aid in adjusting the PRV and checking operating pressure.
Installation Depths. Sprinkler heads should always retract below grade, while spray heds in
shrubs and ground covers should be 6- or 12-inch pop-up heads placed out of the
way of pedestrian traffic and snow plows. Allow at least 2 inches, or three
finger widths, between the heads and the edge of a driveway or sidewalk where
turf edging equipment will be used. Allow 6 inches in planting beds.
Place heads perpendicular to the finished grade. Always hand tamp soil firmly
around the head to prevent movement and erosion and, when possible, install the
head against undistrubed soil for greater stability.For surge protection and
water conservation, irrigation systems with check valves should be installed in
the base of the sprinkler head. Lateral line surge can cause the heads to move
in the soil and fittings to blow apart. Good compaction around the sprinkler
head will reduce these effects, and will keep the head in place.
Controllers.
Be safe. Always ground the controller by using an Underwriters Laboratory (UL)
approved 5/8-inch by 8-foot copper grounding rod and proper ground clamps. Each
controller should have its own ground rod. Install a protective conduit around
wire exposed above ground level. This will protect the wiring as well as provide
a better looking installation. Controllers and electrical equipment need to be
protected from vandals and snow removal equipment, but installed in a manner
that can be easily accessed by maintenance crews.
To save time on the installation and maintenance of an irrigation system,
include an outlet plug for a hand-held radio remote control device. This allows
easy operation and testing of the system anywhere on the landscape site or
location. Pedestal-mounted controllers should be installed on a concrete pad
similar to the pad for the backflow preventer. Two sweep elbows should be used,
one for the 24-volt wires and another for the 120-volt wiring.
Avoid the installation of controllers and other electrical equipment below
grade, unless the vault is well-drained and well-ventilated with fans. The high
humidity that develops in vaults can cause corrosion and greatly reduce the life
span of the electrical equipment.
Controllers that are installed outdoors should have watertight enclosures
except in desert climates where ventilation and cooling of the controllers are
more important. In addition, avoid installing the controller close to an
irrigation head and, if possible, keep it out of exposed turfgrass areas.
Controller charts are reduced size, as-built drawings containing zone numbers
with the coverage areas highlighted in different colors, laminated in 20 mil
plastic and mounted in the controller door. This is helpful in identifying
problems and when trying to determine which zone serves what part of the
landscape.
All wire connections made below grade would be UL approved, removable
insulated wire nuts installed in a reusable, watertight plastic container filled
with a gel and installed in a valve box for future access.
Wire should not be pulled through the ground as this may cause the wire and
insulation to stretch and eventually break. Wire can be laid with a cable plow
or installed in an open trench. Tape and bundle the wire at 15-foot intervals
when installing in a trench. If the wire is installed with the mainline, place
it to one side and several inches below the top of the pipe. This will help
protect the wire from damage that may occur from future excavation.
Provide a 24-inch expansion loop for wire whenever a change of direction is
greater than 40 degrees as well as in situations where the length exceeds 300
feet. Wire that is tightly stretched in a trench may separate within its
insulation as soil temperatures cool down.
Sensors. Some sensors are sensitive to the effects of electromagnetic fields and
require shielded cable and connectors between the sensor and the controller.
The 24-volt wiring should be buried at least 12 to 18 inches deep to better
protect the wire, and 120-volt wiring should be buried 24 inches deep according
to the national electrical code. All wire should be UL approved for direct
burial.
Several years ago, we did some consulting for an irrigation contractor in
Kentucky. We recommended the use of a rain shutoff device for his systems, but
several months later he called to say the rain sensor was not working correctly
and the turf was burning up. My schedule placed me in Kentucky that week so I
arranged to look at the installation with the contractor.
The rain sensor was mounted on an 8-foot high fence in the backyard. When the
system came on, the rotor heads hit the sensor and shutoff the system. Rain
sensors are best installed above the spray height of the system, away from
trees. A good location is at the roofline of a building. – Larry Keesen
Information found here was supplied by Lawn
& Landscape.
Design
your Sprinkler System
How
to Measure your home’s Water Capacity
Water pressure can vary from home to home, even on the same street. So it is
important that you take a measurement at your own home. The danger, if you
push your system beyond its capacity, is that it can crate water hammer and
costly damage to your piping system.
First start by creating a chart like the one pictured below.
Following are two reliable ways of determining your home’s water capacity.
We recommend using the flow and pressure gauge method because
it’s fast and easy. We also offer you instructions on the 5-gallon
bucket method.
A
Determine your water capacity & working pressure
The Toro flow and pressure gauge is a dual purpose device designed to measure
water pressure to 160 PSI and water flow to 13 G.P.M. This flow gauge is not
intended for use on lines larger than 1 inch. The gauge will only measure flow
through the outside faucet -- not in the line.
Ensure no water is being used at the location.
Attach gauge to outside faucet nearest to where the main line enters the
house.
Make sure the flow gauge is closed by turning the handle clockwise.
Open the outside faucet slowly to avoid damage to gauges.
When the outside faucet is fully opened, read the system static
pressure.
Open the flow gauge slowing by turning the handle counter-clockwise. As
the flow gauge opens, pressure will drop from the static reading and the
flow reading will rise. Continue to open the flow gauge until pressure
drops to the desired system working pressure, usually 35 PSI.
If pressure does not drop to 35 PSI (after opening the flow gauge all
the way,) then take the flow and pressure reading at the full open
position.
Note: If rapid fluctuation occurs on the flow gauge, record the average
reading. Additional reading of pressure and flow may be helpful for further
design information.
Now take a minute to enter your findings in the PSI and GPM section of your
chart.
B
Determine your water capacity and working pressure using a
5-gallon bucket and standard pressure gauge
Locate the outside faucet that is closest to your water supply line.
Locate another faucet on your house and attach a pressure gauge. Open faucet all the way.
With faucet Y open all the way, check the pressure reading on the gauge at
faucet X. If it is less that 35 PSI, turn down the water flow from faucet Y
until the reading reaches 35 PSI. If it is greater than 35 PSI, record the
pressure reading and go to step 4.
Place a five gallon bucket under faucet Y and time how long it takes to fill
it. This test tells you how much water is available measured in gallons per
minute (G.P.M.).
Check the chart below, locate the time you recorded and find the GPM reading
that corresponds with that time.
Time to Fill Bucket
Gallons Per Minute
15 seconds
20 G.P.M.
20 seconds
15 G.P.M.
25 seconds
12 G.P.M.
30 seconds
10 G.P.M.
40 seconds
7.5 G.P.M.
This is how much water is available with a working pressure of 35 PSI or the
higher reading that you recorded. (Minimum operating pressure for most
sprinklers.)
Note: The pressure found in this step is called working pressure. This
pressure reading will determine how far your sprinklers will spray.
Enter your findings in the PSI and GPM section of your chart.
Before you go any further, it is important to make sure you are starting off
with the right flow and pressure information. Take a moment to note and
compare your findings from step A or B of How to Measure your home’s water
capacity, with the flow rates and rules of thumb below. A few minutes now may
save you countless headaches later!
Now that you’ve recorded your home’s water capacity, let’s make sure
your water meter and service line can handle it. Use steps 1, 2, and 3 and
refer to the charts below to determine your actual system design capacity.
Water Meter Size
First start by determining you water meter size and flow rate. You can
accomplish this by locating your water meter, the size should be stamped on
the meter or printed right on the face plate. Once you have located the size
Check with the chart below to determine your flow rate.
Flow Rates for Water Meters:
Meter Size
Max. G.P.M.
5/8”
meter 8 G.P.M.
3/4”
meter 13 G.P.M.
1”
meter 22 G.P.M.
Tip: Use only 80% of the design capacity to allow for future demand and
household consumption of water for domestic purposes (showers, sinks, washing
machines, etc.)
Now that you know the size and flow rate you can enter them into your chart.
Service Line Type/Size
Now you have to determine what type and size service line you would like to
use. You can do this by referring to the charts below.
FLOW RATES FOR SERVICE LINES AND SPRINKLER LINES:
Maximum Recommended Flow through PVC (plastic) Pipe:
We recommend 1” Schedule 40 PVC upstream of zone valves and at least
3/4” Class 200 PVC downstream of zone valves.
PVC Pipe Size
Maximum G.P.M.
1” Schedule 40
13 G.P.M.
3/4” Schedule 40
8 G.P.M.
1” Class 200
15 G.P.M.
3/4” Class 200
10 G.P.M.
Maximum Recommended Flow through New Galvanized Pipe:
Galvanized Pipe Size
Maximum G.P.M.
3/4” Galvanized Pipe
8 G.P.M.
1” Galvanized Pipe
13 G.P.M.
Maximum Recommended Flow through Type K Copper Pipe:
Copper Pipe Size
Maximum G.P.M.
3/4” Copper Tube
6 G.P.M.
1” Copper Tube
12 G.P.M.
Maximum Recommended Flow through Polyethylene Pipe:
In freezing areas, poly pipe may be used downstream of zone valves.
Poly Pipe Size
Maximum G.P.M.
3/4” Poly Pipe
8 G.P.M.
1” Poly Pipe
13 G.P.M.
Now that that's done you can enter that data into your chart.
Enter the Lower Number Here
Last but certainly not least, enter the lower of the two GPM numbers into your
chart.
This number will be the Maximum Capacity of your new Sprinkler System.
Valves: Gravity
draining of the system will not remove water captured inside the valves.
Activating the valves manually or electrically from the timer is not an
effective way to drain then. Valves that are not blown out with air must
follow this procedure: Any diaphragm style such as the DAS-075,
DAS-100, CP-075, CP-100, CPF-075, CPF-100, and EV-100 should be
disassembled and drained. Remove the bonnet, solenoid, and diaphragm
assembly and drain or sponge any standing water, then reassemble.
Actuator type valves such as the APAS-075,
APAS-100, AVG-075, and AVG-100 require removal of the stem and solenoid
assembly, check for any standing water in the pipe. Manual valves such as
the PAS-075 and PAS-100 may simply be left in the open position for the
Winter. Valves that are winterized using the blow out method with
compressed air do not require disassembly to remove standing water. Leave
the valves in the manual open position to prevent possible
repressurization during the Winter. This is accomplished by turning the
bleed screw or solenoid counterclockwise, to the open position.
Sprinkler Heads: If
your system uses automatic drain valves (Model 16A-FDV) installed properly
at the low point of the system, the sprinkler lines will drain
automatically each time the system is shut off. This should drain the
water from the sprinkler heads also. Some sprinklers have both side and
bottom pipe inlets. If you use the side inlet, install a drain valve on
the bottom inlet to prevent the case from freezing. Sprinkler heads
containing built in check valves to prevent low head drainage require
disassembly, or must be blown out with air to achieve proper
winterization. These types of heads are usually found only on commercial
installations. Sprinklers that have been blown out with air generally do
not require and additional treatment.
Timers: Several
methods for winterizing timers are available. Some may be more appropriate
for your particular application, depending on the model you own, systems
utilizing water pumps require special attention here. Read the
entire section before deciding which method is correct for you.
If your sprinkler system does not have
a water pump and your timer has a programming dial or a
mechanical on/off switch:
Turn the timer to the "OFF"
position. Leave the timer plugged in. The program you set will remain
intact. You may leave the back up battery plugged in on electronic
models. Leaving the timer plugged in keeps some heat inside the unit,
warding off condensation which may be harmful to the circuit board.
Timers such as the ISA-304, ISA-406, ISA-408, PC-506, ESP-12LXi,
ESP-16LXi, or any mechanical timer like the RC-7C series (the type
that has pins and dials), may simply be turned to OFF, RAIN, or
RAIN/OFF to achieve proper winterization.
If your sprinkler system does not have
a water pump and your digital electronic timer has a
"keypad" only:
Press the "SYSTEM/OFF" or
"AUTO/OFF" key. This will turn the system off, leaving
the program in the memory. A single digit flashing in the display
indicates the system is interrupted, giving visual confirmation. Caution!
A power surge or prolonged power failure could cause the timer to
default back to the automatic mode, sending a signal to the irrigation
control valves or pump to come on. This will not hurt the valves, but
could do serious damage to a "dry" running pump. Examples of
this type of timer are the PC-104, PC-106, PC-204, PC-206, TSC-7,
EZ-1, and the CRC-4/6/8.
If your sprinkler system has a water
pump and your timer is in an indoor digi-tal electronic
or mechanical model:
Unplug the timer. Turning the timer off from
the keypad does not guarantee complete security from the timer coming
on again in case of a power surge or power failure. Mechanical models
turned off from the switch can just as easily be reactivated. Indoor
models have a power cord attached to a transformer style plug. Simply
unplug the transformer from the power source. The transformer is a
small black box that is usually warm or hot to the touch. Warning!
Grabbing a hot transformer could cause burns. Use gloves to protect
your hands. Next, remove the backup battery (digital models) to
prevent it from discharging over the Winter. Be advised that this
method causes the program to disappear on digital models. You will
have to reprogram the timer next spring. Examples of this type of
timer are the PC-104-P/S, PC-106-P/S, PC-204-P/S, PC-206-PS, TSC-7,
EZ-1, and RC-7Bi (or any Rain Bird RC-Bi or RC-I series).
If your sprinkler system has
a water pump and your timer is an outdoor digital
electronic or mechanical model, follow these steps carefully:
Turning the timer off from the keypad does not guarantee complete
security from the timer coming on again in case of a power surge or
power failure. Mechanical models turned off from the switch can just
as easily be reactivated. To correctly winterize these types of
timers, the common wire(s) running to the pump start relay and the
valves must be disconnected from the timer. Turn the power source
to the timer off at the main circuit breaker panel for your home or
garage first. These timers are "hard wired" directly into
the high voltage circuit of your electrical system. The power wires
run directly through conduit pipe to the timer. Warning!
Touching high voltage wires can cause electrical shock and burns. Do
not attempt to disconnect these wires to de-power the timer.
The power may only be turned off at the main circuit breaker
panel. Verify that the power is completely off by removing the backup
battery. Wait for 2 minutes. If the digital display on the timer has
not gone blank, please call Rain Bird, or an irrigation contractor to
assist you. If you have verified that the power is off to the timer,
proceed to disconnect the wire or wires marked "Common",
"Com", or "C", on the timer terminal strip. This
is the location in the timer where the valve wires connect. Usually
there is a row of screws that are labeled and numbered. Locate the
terminal designated as COMMON, COM, or C. In some cases there
may be 2 terminals marked for the common wire. Disconnect all of the
wires from the common terminal. Twist a wire nut or place a piece of
electrical tape over any loose wire ends to prevent the wire(s) from
touching and causing a short circuit. Reconnect the backup battery on
digital models.
Mechanical models: Many Rain Bird mechanical timers have a valve
wiring harness that may simply be unplugged to disconnect the common
and station wires altogether. This is usually a white multi-pin
"snap" connector (Molex type) located behind the face panel,
inside the cabinet. Close the timer access panel. Turn the power
source back on to the timer. Be sure to go ahead and program the timer
to the "OFF" setting on the keypad or switch. Set the
station timing to zero minutes for all of the stations to prevent any
operation. In the Spring, reconnect the common wires and reprogram the
timer.
Backflow Preventer:
Please check with the manufacturer for specific
winterization techniques. Leave the shutoff valves open after draining the
unit. "Ball" type shutoff valves should be left at a 45 degree
angle to prevent water from entering the seal. Under extreme conditions,
insulate the device or use "heat tape" to prevent damage.
Pump: Please check the pump
manufacturer’s instructions for winterization. See timer section
regarding pumps.
Additional
Instructions for Winterizing Your Irrigation system
Okay, the
planning's done, you've bought all the parts, now you're in the yard, shovel in
hand, ready to start.
STEP
1.
Place a stake or flag at every sprinkler location as indicated on your layout.
Use string to show where the pipe will run.
STOP! Make
sure you know where all gas lines, power lines and cable TV lines are before you
start to dig. Be sure to call your utility companies if you need help.
STEP 2.
Dig trenches following the string. Mark the sprinkler locations with flags or
the stakes. Typical trench depths range from 6 to 12 inches.
To run
pipe under existing walkways you can "drill" using water pressure. Get a piece
of PVC long enough to go under the walk, glue a slip-female thread adapter to
one end and attach a hose. On the other end glue a slip-male thread adapter and
connect a Rain Bird Jet Spray Nozzle. Dig your trench up to the walk on both
sides. Now turn on the water and work your way through. It may take a while, and
it will get muddy so turn off the water once in a while to let the water soak
in.
To make trenching easier ask
your local tool rental supplier about a "power trencher".
If you are using a Poly Pipe,
ask about a pipe pulling machine, which will bury pipe without digging up your
lawn.
Be sure to put enough space
between valves on the manifold so that they can be removed in case they ever
need to be replaced.
STEP 3.
Hook up your water supply. Did you check with your Rain Bird Dealer to find out
which connections are right for our local codes and conditions?
STEP 4.
Assemble your valve manifold. Connect the back-flow preventer if required.
PVC and
Poly Pipe
PVC is available in a variety of diameters and wall thickness'. Your system will
operate better and be more durable using a larger diameter (3/4", 1", or 1
1/4"), heavier gauge (schedule 40) pipe. Poly pipe is mostly used in colder
climates. Poly pipe is more flexible and is less likely to be damaged by
freezing. Rain Bird does not recommend using poly pipe for the main line
connecting pipe.
PVC cement is applied to the
inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe. Quickly insert pipe all the
way, giving a 1/4 turn to distribute the cement and hold a few seconds. A primer
is available to prepare the pipe and fittings for gluing. Read the manufacturers
instructions before using PVC cement.
Poly is assembled by sliding a
clamp over the pipe, insert the fitting all the way then bring the clamp into
position and tighten.
STEP 5.
Place lengths of pipe along the string after laying out the right sprinklers and
connectors at each stake.
STEP 6.
Start assembling moving from one sprinkler location to the next. Don't connect
the sprinkler until everything is assembled so that you can flush the system
with water to clear out any dirt that got in the pipes.
STEP 7. Manually flush the
system. Turn on the water at the "shut-off" to supply your system. Then operate
the valves manually to flush the system. Open each valve to flush the pipe with
water, then close. Refer to the valve instructions for manual operation. You
should do this with each valve.
STEP 8.
Attach the sprinklers after flushing the system with water.
STEP 9.
Wire
the valves to the timer following the instructions that come with your timer. Be
sure to write down which timer "station" runs which zone and keep these notes
near your timer.
Now test each
zone, using the timer to control the valves. Make any adjustments to the
distance and directions of the sprinklers. When everything is working right,
bury the pipe.
You're Finished!
Design
your Sprinkler System
How to
begin
Designing
your system
Suggested planning tools: Pencil, scratch paper; Drawing
compass; 50' tape measure; Straight edge or ruler; Marking spray paint for
marking trenches; Toro Flow & Pressure Gauge. (Note: If you
do not own a Flow & Pressure Gauge, ask your local Toro retailer if they
have one that they loan to customers.)
1Draw
Your Property From A Birds Eye View.
Using your tape measure, outline and measure your property accurately
according to scale, laying out the locations of your home, sidewalks, grass,
etc.
Outline your house, garage, other building.
Show walks, drives, slabs, patios and surfaces.
Locate and identify trees and major obstacles.
From the outside of the house, measure outward to define your outside
perimeters.
Locate ground cover, grass and flower beds.
Identify the location of the water meter (or pump) and service line.
Re-check your measurements at several different points. Make sure your
drawing accurately indicates the true dimensions.
2Section Your
Yard.
Divide your yard into areas, according to type of plant material (grass,
shrubs, etc., or shade versus sun.) Create as many large rectangles as you
can, saving small and oddly-shaped areas for last.
3Locate Sprinklers
In Large Rectangular Areas First.
Locate sprinklers within each areas, one area at a time, using larger
sprinklers for larger areas. Stay within the allowable spacing range (radius)
and remember to space them "head to head." Spacing head too far
apart will produce dry spots. Always place sprinklers in a way that avoids
spraying the side of your house, walls, wood fences, etc. Also, minimize
spraying onto sidewalks, driveways, and streets. Place half-circle heads on
sides and borders; quarter circle head in corners; and full circle heads in
the middle.
Please note: Locating sprinkler heads is not an exact science. You can locate
sprinkler heads without knowing pressure or the gallons per minute (G.P.M.)
flow rate of water. Click
here for information on finding the G.P.M. for your system. These factors
will apply later when we divide the system into zones. For now, work on your
layout as described in Step 3 until you've achieved head-to-head coverage for
all areas.
Complete your
sprinkler placement
After locating your sprinklers in large, rectangular areas, you can now locate
sprinklers in small non-rectangular areas. Although each situation is
different, following are some handy guidelines.
Locating Sprinklers in Oddly-Shaped Areas:
Pick the spot on the perimeter with the smallest radius.
Place a head with a small radius at that point.
Place heads along the border starting from that spot.
Adjust the radius of each head according to the size and shape of the
area.
If coverage is incomplete, adjust sprinkler location.
If coverage is still incomplete, start over, using a head with a larger
radius.
Here are two way to locate sprinklers in small areas.
Areas such as narrow strips bordering your driveway or sidewalk can be
watered by two offset rows of part-circle heads as shown here. (Two rows of
part-circle heads)
Or you can use special pattern heads for end-strip and center-strip
watering as shown in this diagram below.
(Center-strip heads spray in two directions: end-strip heads spray in one
direction only. Both are designed for precise watering of small rectangular
areas.)
Important!
When you have located all of your sprinkler heads, use your compass to
double-check your layout. Be sure coverage is head-to-head.
Now zone
your system.
Information found here supplied by Toro.
HOW TO BLOW WATER
OUT OF THE LINES USING COMPRESSED AIR
CAUTION! WEAR
PROPER EYE PROTECTION! Extreme care must be taken when blowing out the
system to avoid excessive pressure which can damage valves or sprinkler
pipe or cause physical injury due to flying debris. Do not stand over any
irrigation components (pipes, sprinklers, and valves) during air blow out.
Air pressure must not exceed 50 pounds per square inch (psi)
for systems with polyethylene piping, and 80 psi for systems with PVC
piping.
Local irrigation contractors usually offer this service for a reasonable
fee which may also include start-up in the Spring. Depending on how
extensive your system is and what type of equipment you have installed,
you may want to choose a professional who is fully equipped to provide
this service.
The blow out method utilizes an air
compressor with a Cubic Foot per Minute (CFM) rating of 80-100 for any
mainline of 2" or less. These types of compressors can be rented at
your local equipment rental yard.
Description: Compressed
air is used to force water through all of the irrigation system components
including the mainline pipe, sprinkler control valves, lateral pipes, and
out through the sprinkler heads. To obtain proper air volume, you will
need to rent or buy a compressor capable of providing 80 to 100 cubic feet
per minute (CFM) of air volume. During the blow
out procedure, the air
pressure must not exceed 50 pounds per square inch (psi) for poly pipe
system or 80 psi for PVC pipe systems . A pressure
regulating valve must be used to avoid over pressurization of the system.
Air volume should be high and air pressure low. This combination of high
volume and low pressure will minimize the damage that can occur during the
winterization process. It is very important to select the right air
compressor for the job. Some small shop compressors (2 hp) may not be
adequate to complete the winterization procedure properly.
If the appropriate air compressor is not
available, please call an irrigation contractor. Do not try to use an air
compressor with high pressure (120 psi) and low volume to evacuate water
from the system. It is not an acceptable
practice to allow the compressor to fill the holding tank of the
compressor and the closed mainline with high pressure air, hoping the
surge of excess pressure will compensate for the lack of compressor size
and blow the line clean upon opening the sprinkler control valve.
This is a dangerous practice that places very severe stresses on all of
the components of the system. Do not run the
compressor without at least one sprinkler control valve open.
This lessens the chance that the system could over pressurize. It is a
common misbelief that if the system can withstand 120 psi of water
pressure, similar air pressure will not damage the system. This is not
true! The viscosity of air is much lower than water, generating much
higher stresses that can cause severe damage to the system.
Design: There should be a
separate provision on the sprinkler system mainline for hooking up the air
hose (see item C in the diagram). This could be a quick connect fitting, a
hose bib, a
manual gate valve, a plugged "tee", or simply a capped pipe in
the line. This adapter should be located as close to the water source as
possible, but should be located after the backflow device. Compressed air
should not be blown through any backflow device. Check with your air compressor manufacturer for the correct
procedure and equipment to hook up to the sprinkler system.
Blow out procedure activating valves
Automatically
Procedure: Wear
Proper Eye Protection! Do not stand over any irrigation
components (pipe, valves, or sprinklers) during air blow out. Do not run
the air compressor without a sprinkler zone control valve being open
first, from start up to compressor shut down. Air pressure must not exceed
50 pounds per square inch (psi) for poly pipe systems and 80 psi for PVC
pipe systems.
Blow
out procedure activating sprinkler control valves from the timer:
Close mainline sprinkler
shutoff valve. ( A )
Relieve the water pressure on the
mainline by activating a circuit, or zone, from your timer. Activate
the circuit that is furthest from the air connection before
introducing air into the piping.
Attach the compressor hose to the blow
out adapter. ( C )
Set the pressure regulating valve on the
compressor to 50 psi for poly pipe systems or 80 psi for PVC pipe
systems.
Turn on the compressor. Gradually
increase the flow of air until the sprinkler heads pop up. The amount
of flow or volume required will be dependent upon the length of the
pipe run and the number of heads.
Sustained heat
from the compressed air may damage pipe and other components. Do not
blow any circuit more than 2 minutes at a time. Switch to
another station, or zone, by advancing the timer to the next circuit.Do not turn the timer off at any time
during this operation until the compressor is first shut off.
In order to ensure adequate drainage of
lines, repeat the cycle two or more times, activating each zone from
the timer, until nothing more than a fine mist appears from the heads.
Many sprinklers that use plastic gears in their drive mechanisms also
use water for lubrication and cooling. If a circuit is allowed to run
with nothing but air for extended periods there is a significant risk
of damaging the drive mechanism of the sprinkler.
After blowing out all the zones, leave
one zone on while shutting down the compressor. Turn the compressor
off at this time.
Unhook the compressor from the adapter
to the sprinkler system mainline.
Use this section
only if your system does not have electric remote control valves.
Procedure: Wear Proper Eye Protection! Do
not stand over any irrigation components (pipes, valves, or sprinklers)
during air blow out. Do not run the air compressor without an irrigation
control zone valve being open first, from start up to compressor shut
down.
Please refer toBlow
Out Procedure Activating Valves from Timer section before
considering this alternative. Activating the valves from the timer offers
an additional margin of safety to the procedure since you would not be
placed in close proximity to the irrigation components during the blow
out.
Blow out procedure activating valves
manually:
Close main sprinkler shutoff valve. ( A
)
Relieve the water pressure on the
mainline by slowly opening the manual shutoff handle on one of your
irrigation zone control valves.
Attach the compressor hose to the blow
out adapter. ( C )
Set the pressure regulating valve on the
compressor to 50 psi for poly pipe systems or 80 psi for PVC pipe
systems.
Turn on the irrigation station you want
to blow out.
Turn on the compressor. Gradually
increase the flow of air from the compressor flow valve (not from the
sprinkler control valve) until the sprinkler heads pop up. The amount
of flow or volume required will be dependent upon the length of the
pipe run and the number of heads.
Sustained heat from the compressed air
may damage pipe and other components. Do
not blow any circuit more than 2 minutes at a time.
After 2 minutes, turn the
compressor off, and allow all of the air to completely purge
from the compressor tank and the sprinkler system.
Turn on the next
irrigation control valve you wish to winterize.
Turn off the last
irrigation control valve you have just blown out.
Repeat Steps 5 through 10 until you have
completed 2 or more blow out cycles per zone. There should only be a
fine mist blowing from each station if the winterization procedure was
successful. Cycle again as needed.
Turn the compressor off. Allow any air
in the storage tank or irrigation components to disperse before
approaching the air hose or valves.
Unhook the compressor from the adapter
to the sprinkler mainline.
*If you prefer, you can also
order the Sprinkler Design Service form from our online store or drop by your
local retailer to pick up Rain Bird’s Sprinkler Design Service form.
2. Gather the information
requested below in steps 1 through 6 and complete the questionnaire and drawing
as instructed. Upon completion, mail or fax the completed questionnaire and
drawing to Rain Bird. PLEASE ALLOW 2 WEEKS TO PROCESS YOUR DESIGN. Once you
receive your design, follow the instructions in the Installation Guide or
Installation Video to complete your project.
What You Get Back
For just $29.95 (refundable
with any Rain Bird product purchase, no minimum dollar amount required), you'll
get:
A complete full-color
set of computer drawn plans:
Color-coded sprinkler
head placement and spray patterns
Color-coded layout of
zones, valves, pipe, timer and wire
An itemized shopping
list of all the parts you will need.
A valve-by-valve parts
list for easy installation.
WANT IT
FASTER? For $49.95 ($29.95 refundable fee with any Rain Bird product purchase,
no minimum dollar amount required), we can design your plans within three
business days and ship them to you via express mail. If you desire this service,
then please check the appropriate box on your "Sprinkler Design Instruction
Sheet". (prices subject to change.)
Getting
Started
Check your water pressure: Screw the pressure gauge onto the nearest faucet to
the water meter. Make sure no water is running anywhere inside or outside
your house. Turn on the faucet with the gauge attached. The gauge shows your
water pressure in pounds per square inch (PSI). You may also call your local
water company to find out your water pressure.
Write the pressure reading on
your information sheet.
Check your water meter size: The meter size ( 5/8",3/4" or 1") is usually stamped
on the outside of the meter. If you can’t find the size, just call the water
company, they’ll know.
Write the meter size on your
information sheet.
Check the size of your service line: Find the pipe that runs from the water meter to your
house. Wrap a piece of string around the pipe, mark it, then measure how
much string it took to go around the pipe. Check your string length on the
table to find your service line size. For example, if your string measures
4" and you have galvanized pipe, your service line is 1 inch.
Write the service line size on
your information sheet.
Measure your home’s water capacity (flow):
Get a
measurable container, like a 5 gallon bucket, make sure no other water is
running in or outside the house, turn the faucet on all the way and time how
long it takes to fill the container.
Our 5 gallon
bucket took 17.5 seconds to fill so; number of gallons divided by number of
seconds to fill x 60 seconds = GPM (5 divided by 17.5 x 60 = 17.14). Round
your answer down to the nearest whole number. Our example gives us 17 GPM.
Note: For
pump systems, check with your well and pump dealer or the owner’s manual of
your pump to determine its pressure and flow capacity.
Write your
water capacity on your information sheet.
Measure your lot: Include lawn, sidewalks, driveways, and walkways and
don’t forget the house. It’s a good idea to sketch everything on a piece of
scratch paper, and write in the measurements before drawing your final plan
on the graph paper supplied. Then, just transfer everything, to scale, to
the graph paper.
Mark your meter or pump location
with a box , your desired timer
with a circle ,and desired manifold
locations with an .
On your
graph paper, each 1-inch square can be 10, 20, or 30 feet. Decide your scale
and write it on your information sheet (important). Maximum lot size for
Rain Bird’s Design Service is 240 x 300 feet, however, this web version can
only accomodate 210 x 270 feet. If you need the full sized graph paper,
please call 1-800-RAIN-BIRD for assistance.
Dividing your lot into sections:
Divide your layout into
sections, pick out the different areas like, the front lawn, side lawn,
flowerbeds etc.
Be sure to
label all areas of your yard that you want watered. Rain Bird will make
sprinkler head recommendations. If you have special watering requirements,
such as wanting bubblers, label these areas. For the types of sprinkler
heads that are available, refer to our online Underground Product Catalog.
Also, if you have a particular area you want watered separately, such as
gardens, roses, etc., mark that area ‘separate valves.’
Mail or
fax the completed questionnaire and your drawing to:
Rain Bird Sprinkler Design Service 7590 Britannia Court, Suite A
San Diego, CA 92154-7403 USA
Fax: 800-862-4927
The Rain Bird Sprinkler Design
Service is for homeowners only and only for their place of residence. Please do
not request designs for commercial or institutional property, these design
requests will be returned.
Rain Bird offers this design
service as a guideline. No guarantee of accuracy of design, system installation,
or operation of system is implied.
IMPORTANT: The
computerized plan you receive will only be as accurate as your drawing. Be sure
to scale your drawing using one of the following ratios: 1"=10’ or 1"=20’ or
1"=30’.
Remember:
Maximum yard size for a Rain Bird computerized design is 240 x 300 feet, or 210
x 270 for this version.
EZ-FLO Fertilizing Systems
EZ-FLO makes fertilizer and supplement dispensing systems for use with any in-ground irrigation system or with a standard water faucet (bib). This technique of applying products through the water is called "fertigation" and it saves on water while significantly reducing the risk of fertilizer runoff. Click here for more information.
EZ-FLO now offers a full line of dispensing systems and landscape solutions for municipal, commercial, school, residential and grower applications.
Click the links below to purchase the products you are looking for:
Sprinkler Warehouse is dedicated to meeting your every need when it comes to installing and maintaining your sprinkler and irrigation systems. Here you will find the tools to educate yourself on every aspect of installing and maintaining your sprinkler system. From valve installation and wiring to pipe and drip lines... We have it all. Find all the information you need here at Sprinkler Warehouse's Sprinkler School!
Before beginning your irrigations project, contact your local water company or the proper municipal authority for information on building codes and required permits. They can also tell you about requirements for the backflow prevention devices requred in your area. These devices protect your water supply from contamination and are required for most inground irrigation systems
Each small square on the graph paper should represent one square foot of actual property or use a scale such as 1 inch = 10 feet, 1 inch = 20 feet, etc. Using a tape measure, measure your property and draw it to scale on the layout paper. Use the drawing below as an example:
REMEMBER:
Outline your house, garage and other structures.
Show walkways, drives, slabs, patios and other surfaces.
Identify trees and major obstacles.
Measure and record the perimeter of your property.
Identify slopes.
Show groundcover, grass, flower beds and landscaping.
Identify the size and location of the water meter (or pump) and main line.
Identify the soil type in your yard.
Write the scale of your drawing on your information sheet!
There is a simple way to determine what type of soil - sand, loam or clay - you have in your yard. All it takes is a clean, empty jar with a lid, some clean water, a tablespoon of detergent and a sample of the soil you want to test. To do so:
Fill the jar about 1/3 full with the soil to be tested.
Fill the jar with water and detergent then cap it.
Shake the jar vigourously and set aside for several hours or overnight.
EVALUATE THE RESULTS:
SAND
LOAM
CLAY
If the water is clear and the soil has settled to the bottom; you have predominantly sand soil.
If the water is still a little murky with bits of matter suspended in it; you have loam soil.
If the water is still murky and there is a visible ring of sediment around the jar; then your soil is mostly clay.
Write your soil type on your information sheet!
IN THIS SECTION YOU WILL NEED:
PRESSURE GAUGE
PENCIL
STRING
5 GALLON BUCKET
TAPE MEASURE
Screw the pressure gauge onto the nearest faucet to the water meter. Make sure no water is running anywhere inside or outside your house. Turn on the faucet with the gauge attached. The gauge shows your water pressure in pounds per square inch (PSI). You may also call your local water company to find out your water pressure.
Write the pressure reading on your information sheet.
The meter size ( 5/8",3/4" or 1") is usually stamped on the outside of the meter. If you can’t find the size, just call the water company, they’ll know.
Write the meter size on your information sheet.
Next identify if your supply line is Copper, Galvanized, or PVC. Copper is generally a copper color, galvanized is generally silver and textured in appearance and PVC is usually white.
Write the supply line type on your information sheet.
Find the pipe that runs from the water meter to your house. Wrap a piece of string around the pipe, mark it, then measure how much string it took to go around the pipe. Check your string length on the table below to find your service line size. For example, if your string measures 4" and you have galvanized pipe, your service line is 1 inch.
Determining Size of Service Line
Length of String
2 3/4"
3 1/4"
3 1/2"
4"
4 3/8"
5"
Size of Copper
3/4"
1"
1 1/4"
Size of Galvanized
3/4"
1"
1 1/4"
Size of PVC
3/4"
1"
1 1/4"
Write the service line size on your information sheet.
Get a measurable container, like a 5 gallon bucket, make sure no other water is running in or outside the house, turn the faucet on all the way and time how long it takes to fill the container.
Our 5 gallon bucket took 17.5 seconds to fill so; number of gallons divided by number of seconds to fill x 60 seconds = GPM (5 divided by 17.5 x 60 = 17.14). Round your answer down to the nearest whole number. Our example gives us 17 GPM.
Note: For pump systems, check with your well and pump dealer or the owner’s manual of your pump to determine its pressure and flow capacity.
Write your water capacity on your information sheet.
Include lawn, sidewalks, driveways, and walkways and don’t forget the house. It’s a good idea to sketch everything on a piece of scratch paper, and write in the measurements before drawing your final plan on the graph paper supplied. Then, just transfer everything, to scale, to the graph paper.
Mark your water meter or pump location with a box .
Mark your desired timer location with a circle .
Mark your desired manifold locations with an .
On your graph paper, each 1-inch square can be 10, 20, or 30 feet. Decide your scale and write it on your information sheet (important). Maximum lot size for Rain Bird’s Design Service is 240 x 300 feet.
Divide your layout into sections, pick out the different areas like, the front lawn, side lawn, flowerbeds etc.
Be sure to label all areas of your yard that you want watered. Rain Bird will make sprinkler head recommendations. If you have special watering requirements, such as wanting bubblers, label these areas. For the types of sprinkler heads that are available, refer to our online Underground Product Catalog. Also, if you have a particular area you want watered separately, such as gardens, roses, etc., mark that area ‘separate valves.’
Group similar types of plants together, like shrubs and ground cover. If you have big differences in the amount of sun different areas get, you may want to group them, too.
IN THIS SECTION YOU WILL NEED:
PENCIL
LANDSCAPE DRAWING
Now that your drawing is divided into sections, you can take them one at a time. You'll need to plan the sprinkler locations so that the spray from one sprinkler will reach to the other sprinkler location. This is called 'head-to-head' spacing or coverage. You'll need to check the distance of throw and spray pattern of each type of head to do this part of your layout.
REMEMBER:
Choose "small to medium" area sprinklers for areas smaller than 25 by 25 feet.
Choose "medium to large" area sprinklers for areas larger than 25 by 25 feet.
Draw in your sprinklers starting at the corners, then if needed, draw in sprinklers around the edges of the area. If needed, draw sprinklers in the middle. Keep sprinklers evently spaced and remember to overlap head-to-head.
Odd shaped areas can be effectively covered using adjustable pattern nozzles that adjust from 0 to 360 degrees.
Narrow strips can be covered using end, side or center strip nozzles.
Head-toHead Coverage
Now that you have your sprinklers drawn in and you have found out your home's water cpacity (GPM), you will need to determine how many valves it will take to operate them. You need to figure out how many sprinklers can be run at one time by your home's GPM. System design is restricted to 24 GPM maximum.
Now that you have figured how many zones you need, you know how many valves to install. Remember, you need a valve to control each zone. When installed, valves are usually grouped together into something called a "valve manifold". A typical manifold will have 2 to 6 valves. Sometimes more valves are required. You might have a manifold for your front yard and one for your back yard.
There are two types of pipe commonly used in sprinkler installations, PVC pipe or Poly Pipe. Once you have your pipe drawn on your layout just count how many feet you need to buy. Order some extra in case of minor cutting mistakes.
Wrong way to lay pipe
Right way to lay pipe
PVC PIPE CLASS 125 / CLASS
Max GPM Flow
Pipe Size
Valve Size
0-10
3/4"
3/4"
>10-15
1"
1"
>15-24
1 1/4"
1"
POLY PIPE / GALVANIZED PIPE
Max GPM Flow
Pipe Size
Valve Size
0-8
3/4"
3/4"
>8-12
1"
1"
>12-22
1 1/4"
1"
Use this chart to size your pipe according to GPM needed for each zone. Label the pipe on your drawing. remember to size your connecting pipe to the largest zone.
There are a variety of timers and controllers available for your system. You will need one with a "station" for each of your valves. You might even purchase one with extra stations in-case you add to your system at another time. Locate your timer in a place that is easy to get to, like the garage or basemen, near a 110 volt outlet. To wire a timer use coated irrigation wire which is rated for underground burial. Buy irrigation wire with one more strand than the number of valves you will be wiring.
Example: If you have 4 valves, buy 5-strand wire, one strand per valve and one "common wire".
Get enought wire to rach from the timer location to the farthest valve, then add a few feet just to be safe. The connections at the valves should be made with water tight connectors. Two connectors for each valve.
FEBCO
Backflow Prevention Manuals
and Spec Pages
Note: If the
manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
We would be more than happy to try to locate the manual for you. Remember,
this page is updated often, so check back!
With this vacuum breaker, the irrigation main can remain pressurized at all times: i.e., supply water pressure may exist at all times on both the inlet and outlet sides of a pressure-type vacuum breaker.
Supply pressure and back-pressure can exist continuously. Terrain need not be considered. The pressure main and zone control valves can be located in the most economical way.
The Reduced Pressure assembly can be used with continuous pressure and back-pressure. It is the only type of mechanical device that is generally accepted for hazardous backflow conditions.
The type and slope of the soil, the fertilizer that is used, and the
amount of water needed by plants and grass, and the efficiency of the
sprinklers affect when to water
SOIL TYPE
Lawns on sandy soil require more frequent watering than lawns on loam
or clay soils. Water can be applied less often to clay and loam soils, but
it should be applied more slowly to prevent runoff.
SLOPE
To avoid runoff on sloping areas, place sprinklers near the top of the
slope. Apply water slowly for 5-15 minutes, off 15 minutes, on 5-15
minutes, etc., until the correct amount of water has been applied
FERTILIZER
A slow release nitrogen fertilizer helps plants use less water, and a
lawn fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio of Nitrogen (N) –phosphorus (P)
–potassium (K), such as 15-5-10, is recommended to help grass withstand
stress. Remember, each 100 lbs. Of 15-5-10 fertilizer contains 15 lbs. of
N, 5 lbs. of P, and 10 lbs. of K. Fertilize lightly in the spring and
again in early fall.
TREES, SHRUBS, GROUNDCOVER
Established plantings do well in the summer when watered about once a
week, especially if mulch and soil are place around plants. Apply enough
water to wet the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches. Flooding diked
areas and using low output sprinkler heads, bubblers, or drip irrigation
systems help prevent runoff.
New plantings require more frequent watering the first two years.
Consider Texas-grown, drought-tolerant varieties when purchasing new or
replacement plants.
For more information, contact the County Agricultural Extension Agent,
The Texas Department of Agriculture, or:
CONSERVATION
Texas Water Development Board
P. O. Box 13231, Capitol Station
Austin, Texas 78711-3231
Installation Guide
Okay, the planning's
done, you've bought all the parts, now you're in the yard, shovel in
hand, ready to start.
STEP
1.
Place a stake or flag at every sprinkler location as indicated on your
layout. Use string to show where the pipe will run.
STOP! Make sure you
know where all gas lines, power lines and cable TV lines are before you
start to dig. Be sure to call your utility companies if you need help.
STEP 2.
Dig trenches following the string. Mark the sprinkler locations with
flags or the stakes. Typical trench depths range from 6 to 12 inches.
To
run pipe under existing walkways you can "drill" using water pressure.
Get a piece of PVC long enough to go under the walk, glue a slip-female
thread adapter to one end and attach a hose. On the other end glue a
slip-male thread adapter and connect a Jet Spray Nozzle (available at
most home improvement and home & garden retailers). Dig your trench up
to the walk on both sides. Now turn on the water and work your way
through. It may take a while, and it will get muddy so turn off the
water once in a while to let the water soak in.
To make trenching easier ask your
local tool rental supplier about a "power trencher".
If you are using a Poly Pipe, ask
about a pipe pulling machine, which will bury pipe without digging
up your lawn.
Be sure to put enough space between
valves on the manifold so that they can be removed in case they ever
need to be replaced.
STEP 3.
Hook up your water supply. Did you check with your Rain Bird Dealer to
find out which connections are right for our local codes and conditions?
STEP 4.
Assemble your valve manifold. Connect the back-flow preventer if
required.
PVC and Poly
Pipe
PVC is available in a variety of diameters and wall thickness'. Your
system will operate better and be more durable using a larger diameter
(3/4", 1", or 1 1/4"), heavier gauge (schedule 40) pipe. Poly pipe is
mostly used in colder climates. Poly pipe is more flexible and is less
likely to be damaged by freezing. Rain Bird does not recommend using
poly pipe for the main line connecting pipe.
PVC cement is applied to the inside of
the fitting and the outside of the pipe. Quickly insert pipe all the
way, giving a 1/4 turn to distribute the cement and hold a few seconds.
A primer is available to prepare the pipe and fittings for gluing. Read
the manufacturers instructions before using PVC cement.
Poly is assembled by sliding a clamp over
the pipe, insert the fitting all the way then bring the clamp into
position and tighten.
STEP 5.
Place lengths of pipe along the string after laying out the right
sprinklers and connectors at each stake.
STEP 6.
Start assembling moving from one sprinkler location to the next. Don't
connect the sprinkler until everything is assembled so that you can
flush the system with water to clear out any dirt that got in the pipes.
STEP 7.
Manually flush the system. Turn on the water at the "shut-off" to supply
your system. Then operate the valves manually to flush the system. Open
each valve to flush the pipe with water, then close. Refer to the valve
instructions for manual operation. You should do this with each valve.
STEP 8.
Attach the sprinklers after flushing the system with water.
STEP 9.
Wire
the valves to the timer following the instructions that come with your
timer. Be sure to write down which timer "station" runs which zone and
keep these notes near your timer.
Now test each zone,
using the timer to control the valves. Make any adjustments to the
distance and directions of the sprinklers. When everything is working
right, bury the pipe.
Field Mice, Voles
If these rodents make your lawn their winter home, they may do a number on
your grass under the cover of snow. But once the snow disappears, you'll
know where they've been. Voles feed on grass during the winter and can cause
extensive damage.
Control hints: I've
found that my cat is the best control money can buy for these varmits. But,
if you don't want a cat you could try mouse- or rat-traps. If children or
pets are in the area, don't use poison bait.
Gophers
These underground rodents are brown, have small eyes and ears, and have
conspicuous pouches on both sides of their mouths. In addition to unsightly
holes, these pests eat plant roots and sometimes, entire plants!
Gophers create
crescent-shaped mounds of finely pulverized soil that is quite visible in a
green lawn. Each mound may contain a visible hole, or an earthy clump may
camouflage the hole. While you may have a number of gopher holes in your
lawn, odds are it's the work of just one gopher.
Control hints: While
Northwestern University's defensive line did a good job of controlling the
Minnesota Gophers in last week's football game, wire or box traps will
probably work better in your lawn. You'll need to dig down to an active
horizontal tunnel and place a couple of traps in it. Follow the instruction
that accompany the trap.
Moles
While foraging for food, moles create tunnels that may eventually crisscross
your lawn. This tunneling destroys grass roots, so the above-ground ridges
brown quickly. Despite numerous tunnels, your lawn is probably home to just
one mole. In fact, moles build new tunnels constantly and may not use the
same one twice.
If you look
carefully, you may find the mole entry and exit mounds. These are round,
conical, fan- shaped or irregular in appearance and the hole usually has
dirt in it but is still visible. Moles use these repeatedly.
Control hints:
Before your try any other control, consider using Dursban to eliminate lawn
insects. Without food, your mole may go elsewhere of his own accord. If that
doesn't work, trapping, baits, repellents and fumigation are other options.
Rabbits
Peter Cottontail may look cute sitting on your lawn, but if he's hungry,
look out! When local food supplies are scarce, rabbits can be major pests.
Control hints: My
exuberant puppy keeps the rabbits out of my lawn. Knight loves nothing
better than a good rabbit chase. But if a puppy isn't in your future, try a
wire mesh fence that's at least 2 feet high and extends 6 inches
underground. Rabbit repellents make the grass taste unpleasant and can be
effective, but they have to be reapplied each time your grass is mowed.
Snails, Slugs
The silvery trails of snails and slugs wind across lawns and are visible in
the morning and on overcast days. These familiar lawn pests hide under
leaves during the day to avoid sunlight and come out to eat grass at night.
Control hints: I use
liquid or pellet baits to control snails and slugs. Simply place the bait
near the animals' hiding places.
Crayfish Individual burrows created by crayfish can be treated so that the
chimneys will not be rebuilt after you knock them down. Since the methods
used to kill crayfish can contaminate nearby bodies of water, the following
treatments are suggested by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service:
Dissolve one
pound of chloride of lime in three gallons of water. Application can be
made with compressed air sprayers or a watering can with the sprayer
nozzle removed. One to two ounces of this liquid should be applied into
each crayfish burrow and the opening of the burrow closed by pressing
the earth together with the foot. The chloride of lime will kill the
crayfish within a few hours.
Sodium hydroxide (lye) at the rate of two or three
pellets (1/2 tsp) per burrow provides effective control. This method has
been used to control crayfish in narrow earth dams.
Mix two quarts of turpentine and one-fourth pound
of soap powder with one quart of water. Mix one part of this stock
solution in 50 parts of water and apply in the same manner as given in
Number 1 above.
Deer
A hungry deer will eat almost anything so only a double chain link fence 10
feet high and 4 feet apart would be sure to keep the deer out. There are
also repellents that have an odor that deter the deer. One product is called
Deer-Away. Another one is an organic fertilizer called Milorganite. After
being applied, the odor will be distinct during the growing season, in high
humidity and warmer temperatures. Fortunately, people can't smell it after
it is applied and since it is a slow release fertilizer, it's healthy for
your plants and lawn. Some people have tried old nylons stuffed with
"fresh" human or dog hair that are hung around the garden. The
odor wears out quickly and needs to be replaced often.
Dogs Dog spots are hard to prevent, but you can diminish the damage by
flushing the area with lots of water right after the dog urinates. If the
spots are "old", then you should flush the area with water, add a
small amount of gypsum (to neutralize the salts in the urine) then
reseed/sod and fertilize the area. The gypsum should be applied first at a
rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 10 square feet. Then irrigate the area well but
don't wash away the gypsum. Water regularly to help move the gypsum into the
soil. Many dog owners have had success by designating an area of the yard
where it is OK for the dog to "go". You'll have to keep this area
clean and free of droppings but at least you won't be trying to clean up dog
spots all around the yard.
(Use of 2,4-D, dicamba or mecoprop
may damage warm season grasses, read and follow all label warnings and
instructions)
Lawns may occasionally thin out and
become weedy as the result of poor management, pests, or severe summer
stress. Lawns that do not need regrading or soil tilling may be renovated by
simply controlling weeds, planting seed and fertilizing. Also, determine the
cause of lawn decline so that you can adjust your lawn care program.
Control existing vegetation that
you don't want. If you use a selective broadleaf herbicide (2,4-D,
dicamba, or mecoprop), wait one month before the next step. Proceed only
after seven to fourteen days following total vegetation control with
roundup herbicide.
Set your mower as low as
possible, scalp off all existing vegetation and rake clean.
Prepare surface with power rake,
verticutter, or core aerifier. Skip steps 4, 6 and 7 if slit seeding
equipment is used that places seed directly into the soil.
Rake loosened thatch and existing
debris.
Add fertilizer.
Make a final pass to create open
channels for seed collection.
Assess situation. First, assess your
lawn situation for desirability and appropriateness of the grass, presence
of weeds and bare spots. Kill existing vegetation (grasses and weeds) if any
one of the following apply:
Less than 50 percent of the area
is the desired turfgrass.
Only a cool season lawn grass is
desired but bermudagrass has invaded. If bermudagrass is in localized
patches or is encroaching from a neighbor along your property line, kill
all vegetation only in those areas.
You want to use a turf-type tall
fescue but currently have Kentucky bluegrass, or K-31 tall fescue.
You have several weeds that
require non-selective control such as quackgrass, tall fescue,
bermudagrass, nimblewill and bentgrass.
Lawns that have more than 50 percent
desirable grass, but still appear thin and weak with several broadleaved
weeds, may need only control of broadleaved weeds with herbicides such as
2,4-D, mecoprop and dicamba.
After weed competition is reduced, lawns may
regain their original density. Bare patches less than 4 inches in diameter
likely will fill in on their own with proper fertility and no additional
seeding. Larger areas that remain too thin a month after broadleaf herbicide
treatment may be overseeded. Shaded areas of lawns with thin turf and
exposed soil often appear to need additional seeding.
Renovate these areas
but do not kill existing turf that has thus far survived the difficult
growing conditions of shade.
Prepare surface for seeding. One of
the most important steps in renovation is placing the seed in contact with
soil. This sounds simple, but most lawns have thatch - an intermingled layer
of dead and living plants - over the soil surface. This brown, decomposing
layer may be up to 2 inches thick. Lawns with more than one-half inch of
thatch should be detached.
Seed that is placed on or in the
thatch layer may germinate, but the eventual stand of grass that develops
will be poor. Thatch in excess of 1 inch may need to be removed with a sod
cutter before reseeding. To ensure good seed-to-soil contact, use power
equipment to prepare the surface for seeding. Power rakes, verti-cutters,
slit seeders, and core aerators are effective machines for properly
preparing the surface for seeding.
What can be used in place of
chemicals to control insects, weeds and disease?
There are cultural controls such as
planting disease-resistant varieties of grass and other preventative yard
care practices, physical or mechanical controls such as traps, biological
controls such as natural predators and various organic based preparations of
sprays and repellents.
Is there any way to get rid
of my weeds without using chemicals?
There is no quick fix, but if you
follow the steps of good basic lawn care to keep your lawn growing
vigorously, eventually the weeds will be forced out by the grass. Patience
and a little elbow grease in pulling or digging out the weeds may not be as
easy as using herbicides, but it is better for your lawn and the
environment. And remember, never let a weed flower. A single plant can
produce tens or even hundreds of thousands of seeds.
Weeds don't like good growing
conditions and when your lawn is stressed, the weeds will flourish in areas
where soil is compacted, shady, too wet or too dry and when the grass has
not been fertilized enough to maintain good, vigorous growth of your
turfgrass.
A layer of thatch one-half inch or more
can prevent water and fertilizer from getting to the grass roots. When this
happens, the lawn becomes stressed and creates the growing conditions that
weeds like.
Is there any kind of 'home
brew' for getting rid of weeds?
The 'recipes' of Jerry Baker, well
known for his yard care advice, have been seen on TV as well as video tapes
and books. He has a weed control recipe that can be used for spot treatment
of weeds. Into a 32 oz hand sprayer, combine one ounce gin, one ounce liquid
soap and one ounce vinegar. Spray just the weed, not the entire lawn area.
First eliminate the conditions that
favor their growth. Control their spread by raising the lawnmower height of
cut to 2 to 3 inches (the taller the better) so taller grass will shade them
out. Feed the grass in the fall or early spring to give it a head start on
weeds since new, vigorous grass will shade weed seeds and discourage their
germination. Rejuvenate your lawn by reseeding with a high quality, improved
variety, grass seed and never allow a weed to flower.
You have to be a detective. Look at the
whole lawn -- Are there spots, patches or irregular shape patterns? Then
look at the individual affected grass blades. Do they have spots or stripes?
Is there decay, stunting, wilting or are the blades of grass discolored?
Symptoms that may appear to be a disease could also be the lack of a
particular nutrient. Unlike diseases, the symptoms will not appear in
patches or spots, but over all or most of your lawn. Infected grass patches
damaged by disease remain firmly attached to the soil. The exception is leaf
spot which softens the grass to that it pulls up easily.
Most turf diseases are caused by fungi.
Fungus spores are always present in your lawn, ready to infect weakened,
stressed grass when the right conditions exist. An outbreak of disease is
triggered by:
poor yard care practices
too much water
not enough water
pH imbalance
soil compaction
excessive traffic
poor mowing practices
using too many pesticides and
chemicals
Most of the time when a fungus disease
appears, the cause is too much nitrogen fertilizer.
Prevention is the main one. Having a
healthy lawn by mowing, watering, aerating, proper pH and fertilization can
do a lot to cure an ailing lawn. The soil itself can keep disease from
getting a foothold since disease-causing organisms are vastly outnumbered by
such non-disease causing microbes such as nematodes, insects and amoebas.
You can also prevent diseases by planting the right type of grass in the
right place. Don't plant a sun-loving variety in a shady place. Select
disease-resistant grass varieties as well.
If thatch gets too thick, more than
one-half inch, it absorbs moisture itself, but does not let the water or
nutrients to get to the soil and the roots of the grass. It also prevents
air circulation to the grass blades and roots creating the right conditions
for fungus to thrive.
Is
there any kind of 'home brew' for preventing lawn diseases?
Compost has fungicidal properties. By
periodically topdressing your turf with some kind of composted material,
such as homemade or commercial compost, composted municipal sludge or
mushroom soil, you are introducing fungus-fighting microbes into the lawn.
They are very effective in controlling most of the more common lawn diseases
such as dollar spot, brown patch and Pythium blight.
Is there any natural organic
treatment for lawn diseases?
By the time a disease makes its
presence known, it's too late to save the infected plants. Prevention, by
following good cultural lawn care practices, is the best solution. If
disease does occur, correct the problems that trigger it. For more
information on good cultural practices, refer to these topics: Organic
Yardcare, Organic Soil Care, Mowing, Watering
What role do earthworms and
ants play in preventing disease problems?
They are beneficial 'bugs' that live in
the soil and they help break down thatch in your lawn naturally. Since
thatch can trigger lawn diseases, any natural way of preventing disease
should be encouraged.
I'm not sure what kind of weeds
I have. Do I really need to know what they are to control them?
Identifying your weeds should be the
first step in any control program. If you can't identify a weed from the
descriptions provided here, take a sample to your local nursery or county
extension service. They should be able to name the weed and tell you how to
control it.
Compare the weed in question to a
picture. Note its growth pattern (up-right or close to the ground). Examine
the stem: inside it may be hollow, fleshy or contain a milky sap; outside it
may be hairy or smooth, square or round.
You'll also want to consider whether
the plant is a cool-season or warm-season weed. For example, a green, grassy
weed found in early spring isn't likely to be crabgrass or foxtail - both of
these weeds begin to grow later in the season.
If you're unable to identify the
weed, don't despair. Just take a sample to your local extension office or
garden supply store - they'll be able to help!
Broadleaf weeds often have showy
flowers. The leaves have a network of small veins that originate from a
principal vein. This main vein divides the leaf in half. Broadleaves usually
have a strong main root known as a taproot. Dandelion is a good example of a
broadleaf weed.
True grasses have jointed, hollow
stems. Their leaf blades have parallel veins and they're sometimes several
times longer than they are wide. In addition, most grass seed heads are
similar to those found on small grains like wheat.
What's the difference between
an annual and a perennial weed?
This classification refers to the
plant's life span. An annual germinates from seed, grows, matures and dies
in less than 12 months. Crabgrass and foxtail are both annuals. By contrast,
perennials live for more than two years. Examples of these include field
bindweed and clover.
How do I know a cool-season plant from a warm-seasonone?
Look at when the plant grows best.
Cool-season plants like bluegrass and dandelions are among the first plants
to get going each spring. Plants that remain dormant or don't germinate
until temperatures warm-up are known as warm-season plants. Crabgrass and
foxtails fall in this category. During autumn, warm-season species turn
brown after the first frost; cool-season plants usually remain green an
extra 30 days or more!
Good lawn care is the key. A thick,
healthy lawn keeps weeds in check - so proper fertilizing, mowing, watering,
aerification and thatch control are your first line of defense.
If you have a lot of weed problems,
it may be sign of some other lawn care problem. Creating a healthy
environment for your yard automatically creates an unhealthy one for weeds!
I pulled weeds all summer, but
still have the same problems the following year. What am I doing
wrong?
Weed seeds infest most soils by the
millions. In fact, the average weed produces more than twenty thousands
seeds in a single year. Pulsane, a common lawn weed, actually produces more
than two million seeds per plant in a single season!
If that isn't enough, keep in mind
that weed seeds can be dispersed by wind, on animals - even by your lawn
equipment. Once in the soil, the seed waits until the lawn begins to weaken,
giving them enough light and moisture to start growing.
Also known as common plantain, broadleaf plantain has thick, egg-shaped,
wavy-edged leaves that grow in ground-hugging rosettes. Its long, slender
flower stalk curls slightly at the top. From May to September, rattail-like
seed heads appear. Plantain multiplies from seeds and roots. The weed
germinates best in rich, moist, compacted soil. As broadleaf plantains grow,
they suffocate surrounding grass.
Control hints: One of the best ways
to control this weed is digging out its roots with a trowel. To treat major
infestations in warm-season grasses or as a spot treatment in cool-season
grasses, I recommend mecoprop (MCPP) or 2,4-D. Don't let flowers or seeds
form, and to prevent future infestations, aerate your lawn.
Clover
Clover leaves are composed of three
round leaflets at the top of a hairy leafstalk. The leafstalks sprout from
the base of the plant. The plant's white- or pink-tinged flowers bloom from
June to September. These blossoms are a favorite for bees.
Clover reproduces from seeds and
aboveground root stems. Its seeds can live in the soil for 20 years or more.
The plant suffocates lawn grasses, resulting in large patches of clover.
Since clover produces its own nitrogen, it thrives in lawns that are low in
this nutrient.
Control hints: You can pull or dig
the clover out of your lawn and fertilize your lawn on a regular basis (at
the recommendated rate for your particular type of grass) to discourage its
spread. Mow often to prevent self-seeding. Otherwise, in the spring and
early fall, treat your lawn with a weed killer containing 2,4-D and mecoprop
(MCPP). Repeat treatments are often necessary.
Common Chickweed
A weed with small heart-shaped leaves
and star-like white flowers, common chickweed grows in thin spaces in the
lawn. It reproduces from seeds and creeping stems that root wherever they
touch the soil.
Common chickweed grows primarily in
damp, shady areas under trees and shrubs and on the north side of buildings.
The weed invades lawns when they begin to thin, forming a dense mat that
crowds out the grass.
Control hints: When common chickweed
is growing actively in the early spring or late fall, treat the lawn with a
weed killer containing 2,4-D or mecoprop (MCPP). Repeated applications may
be necessary. Don't water for two days after a treatment.
Ground Ivy
Also known as creeping charlie, creeping ivy and gill-over-the-ground,
ground ivy was originally introduced as a ground cover. This hard-to-control
perennial spreads by seed as well as creeping stems. Its bright green leaves
are scalloped and round. Tiny light blue-to-purple funnel-shaped flowers
appear from spring through summer. Ground ivy does well in sun or shade as
long as soil is damp. If left unchecked, these plants form a dense mat that
can completely crowd out grass.
Control hints: Cut grass short and
rake to keep runners from touching the ground. Hand-pulling must be thorough
because pieces left in the ground can re-sprout. Postemergent sprays with
DCPA work best.
Henbit
Also known as dead nettle or bee
nettle, henbit has rounded, toothed leaves. Its lower leaves are attached to
squarish stems. Lavender flowers appear from April through June and
occasionally again in September.
Henbit reproduces by seed or stems
that root easily when they touch the soil. The weed most frequently invades
thin areas in lawns with rich soil.
Control hints: In early spring (when
henbit is growing most rapidly) I recommend treating the lawn with a weed
killer containing 2,4-D, dicamba or mecoprop (MCPP). Don't water for 24
hours after treating. If you only have a few small plants, try hand-pulling.
Mouse-Ear Chickweed
Not directly related to common chickweed, this broadleaf perennial multiples
rapidly and can crowd out desired grasses. Its hairy stems are low and
spreading. Its leaves are clammy, fuzzy and dark green. Small white flowers
appear from April through June. Mouse-ear chickweed grows quickly in early
spring and thrives in moist, poorly drained soil - whether in the sun or
shade.
Control hints: Hand pulling is
usually not effective since this weed can re-sprout from pieces left in the
soil. I'd advise you to keep your lawn cut short and remove clippings that
contain runners. For best results, apply DCPA when this weed is emerging and
actively growing.
Sheep Sorrel
Also called red sorrel or sour grass, this weed grows in dry, sterile, sandy
or gravely soil and is usually an indication of acidic soil or low nitrogen
availability. Sheep sorrel reproduces from seeds and underground rootstalks.
While its root system is shallow, it is extensive and therefore is not
easily removed.
Spear-shaped leaves with two lobes
at the base form a dense rosette. You can identify this weed by its lacy,
reddish-green flower stalks which appear in mid-spring.
Control hints: In spring or fall,
treat infested areas with a weed killer containing 2,4-D and mecoprop (MCPP).
Don't mow for five days before or two days after treating. Sheep sorrel is
difficult to control, so several treatments may be necessary. To discourage
the weed, check your soil's pH and if needed, correct it to between 6.0 and
7.0.
Speedwell
Also known as creeping veronica, this weed can cover an entire lawn in just
a few years. It has bright green, roundish, scallop-edged leaves and tiny
bluish-white flowers that bloom on stalks. Heart-shaped seed pods form on
stems below flowers.
Speedwell forms dense patches that
become established just below the height of a lawn mower, making it
difficult to stop. Over time, these patches can suffocate your lawn. The
weed usually stays out of well-drained sunny areas that receive fertilizer
regularly. It grows best in moist, shady lawns and acidic soils, but it can
grow in sunlight if soil remains moist.
Control hints: I'd encourage you to
cut your grass short. If necessary, use a post-emergence herbicide containing
2,4-D or DCPA.
Broadleaf
Weeds
Curly Dock
Growing from a large, brownish taproot,
curly dock grows most actively when grass is suffering from the stress of
hot, dry weather. Leaves are bright, shiny green in spring and edged with
reddish-purple in summer and fall. If not removed, curly dock sends up a
tall, narrow spike of greenish flowers from the center of the plant.
Control hints: Pull out curly dock
by hand or with a small spade. For heavy infestations, apply dicamba or
2,4-D in mid-spring or mid-fall for post-emergence control. Because curly
dock has a tenacious root system, preemergent controls (which act only on
seeds) will not combat this weed effectively.
Dandelion
Yellow blossoms make the dandelion the most recognized lawn weed. It
reproduces from seeds and shoots that grow from a fleshy taproot. This
2-to-3 feet deep root allows the weed to survive even the most severe
winter. Dandelions grow in any soil and are most numerous in full sunlight.
At maturity the flower becomes a
fluffy white ball of feathery seeds that can be carried many miles by the
wind. To discourage seeds from sprouting, promote heavier grass growth by
conscientious fertilizing, and mow at the high end of the range for your
grass. Dandelions prefer wet soil and are often a sign of over watering.
Control hints: Mecoprop
(MCPP) and
2,4-D both work well for spot treatments. For best results, I recommend two
applications, one in the early summer and another in the early fall. Don't
water or mow for two days after treatments. Hand-digging is not only time
consuming and tedious, but impractical, since pieces of root that are broken
off and left in the soil will sprout into new plants.
Field Bindweed
Also known as creeping jenny and wild morning glory, field bindweed is one
of the most difficult weeds to eliminate because of its extensive root
system. In fact, its roots may grow 15-to-20 feet deep. Pieces of roots left
behind from hand-pulling easily re-sprout.
The plant has long, twining stems
and spade-shaped leaves. White or pink funnel-shaped flowers appear from
spring to fall. The weed twines and climbs over shrubs and fences and up
into trees. It prefers rich, sandy or gravely soil, but will grow in almost
any garden soil.
Control hints: In late spring to
early summer or in early to late fall, treat broad areas with a weed killer
containing 2,4-D and mecoprop (MCPP) or dicamba. If you have a few small
patches of bindweed, you can spot-treat with a spray containing glyphosate,
wait one week, then re-seed. Because of its deep roots, repeated treatments
may be necessary.
Kikuyu grass
Broadleaf Weeds: Warm-Season
Annual
Burclover
This spreading weed hugs the ground and becomes especially unsightly in
closely mowed lawns. Growing most rapidly during spring and fall,
burclover's creeping stems may vary in length from a few inches to several
feet. Its yellow-orange flower gives way to barbed seed pods that attach
themselves to almost anything that moves.
Control hints: I'd suggest using
dicamba or mecoprop (MCPP) in the spring or fall for post-emergence control.
Hand weeding is also a good alternative in small lawns.
Mallow
Also called cheeseweed, mallow is found
throughout the United States in lawns, fields and along roadways. It has a
straight, nearly white taproot that is difficult to pull from the soil.
The weed has hairy stems and round,
heart-shaped, hairy leaves that are slightly lobed along the edges. The
leaves attach to the plant's stems by a long leafstalk and white, five-petaled
flowers bloom singly or in clusters. Its seed head is a flatheaded disc
which breaks into 10 to 20 pie-shaped segments. The weed is often mistaken
for ground ivy, but unlike that plant, Mallow's spreading branches don't
root when they touch the soil.
Control hints: I suggest treating
your lawn with a weed killer containing 2,4-D and mecoprop (MCPP) but don't
water your yard for five days before treating or two days after.
Purslane
Purslane thrives in hot, dry weather and is seldom found in the spring when
the lawn is being treated for other weeds. However, once it gets going, the
weed grows vigorously, forming a thick mat. It has small yellow flowers that
open only in full sunlight. Purslane stores water in its thick, fleshy stems
and leaves; therefore, it can survive longer than your grass during dry
weather. Purslane primarily invades bare spots or thin lawns, so it's
especially troublesome in newly seeded lawns.
Control hints: When the weed is
actively growing, spray the lawn with a weed killer containing 2,4-D or
dicamba. If the lawn has just been reseeded, don't treat it until the
seedlings have been mowed at least three times. Wait three to four weeks
after a treatment before seeding bare areas.
Grass Weeds: Cool-Season
Perennial
Quack grass (quackgrass)
Also known as couchgrass or witchgrass, this weed has hollow stems and is
often found in newly seeded lawns. It spreads extensively through the lawn
thanks to its long, white underground stems.
Quack grass reproduces from seed and
underground stems. Narrow flower spikes that rise from the plant resemble
slender heads of rye or wheat.
Control hints: Because quack grass
is so vigorous, hand-pulling is rarely successful. I suggest spot-treating
with a chemical containing fluazifop or glyphosate. If regrowth occurs,
repeat the treatment.
Tall Fescue in other grasses
A durable, bunch-type grass, tall
fescue is commonly used on athletic fields. However, when it invades
bluegrass lawns, it becomes a weed. Its medium- dark green blades are ribbed
on the topside and smooth on the underside. In the spring and fall, the
lower parts of the stems turn reddish purple.
To control tall fescue in
bluegrass, kill clumps of tall fescue with a weed killer containing
glyphosate or fluazifop. Omit a regular mowing before treating to ensure
that the grass blades have enough tissue to absorb the chemical. One week
after spraying, remove the tall fescue and re-seed the area. The tall fescue
may still be green, but the root will die in three to four weeks and won't
re-sprout. However, when tall fescue invades perennial rye, eliminating it
won't be easy. There is no magic chemical that will do it.
To thin out the
tall fescue, mow the grass short, about 1.5 inches. This will encourage the
rye to the disadvantage of the fescue. Don't just set your mower at 1.5
inches for the first cut though. Instead gradually lower it one-half inch
per cutting so as not to shock the rye. Then mow frequently removing only
one-third of the grass blade at a time. Don't fertilize the grass until the
fall and watch for signs of drought. With short mowing, the soil will get
hotter and the roots are not trying to grow as deep. Water at one inch (or
more per weeks if its hot and sunny).
Water in the early morning so the
ground is moist to start the day. Don't water in the evening as standing
water may encourage disease and fungal growth.
Timothy Grass
Timothy grass is a blue-green bunching
grass that grows best in spring and fall. The weed has broad, pointed leaves
and thrives in thin, under-fertilized lawns.
Control hints: Your best bet is to
dig up all visible clumps.
Velvet grass (velvetgrass)
This perennial can grow to 4 feet tall
in unmown areas. In mowed areas, the bright green velvety leaves lay flat.
Velvet grass will root wherever joints touch the soil. Its seed heads appear
from July to August. The problem weed thrives in damp areas with good soil,
but it tolerates partial shade.
Control hints: To eliminate velvet
grass, use a herbicide containing glyphosate.
Wild Garlic, Wild Onion
Wild garlic is often mistaken for wild
onion and vice versa. Though they are similar, there are a few key
differences in these two weed species. Both are often the first growth seen
in spring, grow from small underground bulbs, and have a garlicky or onion
odor. However, wild garlic has slender, hollow leaves and bulblets may
appear at its leaf tips. By contrast, wild onion does not produce bulblets
and its leaves aren't hollow. Both weeds produce greenish-white flowers.
Wild garlic and onion spread rapidly from spring to mid-summer, thrive in
heavy, wet soil and are both drought- and cold- hardy.
Control hints: Mowing when wild
garlic and wild onion first appear can reduce the infestation, but bulbs
must be totally removed for full control. post-emergence control is most
effective in late fall, when the weeds are still small and vulnerable. Once
these perennial weeds take hold, they can be extremely difficult to
eliminate. For chemical control, I'd suggest DCPA.
Grass Weeds: Warm-Season
Perennial
Bermuda grass (bermudagrass)
Also known as devilgrass, this weed
grows quickly when temperatures soar. Where it is well adapted to the
climate, it can either be your lawn or your most troublesome weed (if you
have a different type of grass) and be very difficult to eradicate.
Spreading by rhizomes and
stolons,
Bermuda grass easily invades surrounding plant beds and lawns consisting of
a different grass. The stolons are many-jointed, with roots forming at the
nodes. Brown and dead-looking in winter, this grass comes back to life in
spring with renewed vigor.
Control hints: It's important to
remove the entire underground portion of the stem or Bermuda grass will grow
new shoots. Cultural control in cool season grasses includes fall and winter
fertilization and high mowing heights (greater than 1.5 inches) which will
encourage the growth of cool season turfgrasses which in turn will
discourage the spread of the bermuda grass. Preemergent herbicides (pendimethalin,
or benefin plus trifluralin) will aid in the control of germinating bermuda
grass seedlings. In warm season and cool season lawns, you can treat small
patches with glyphosate by using a small brush or soaked sponge to apply the
chemical, but be careful since it will kill or injure all grasses that come
in contact with it. Glyphosate has a very short residual time in the soil
and reseeding can be done 3-7 days after application.
Dallis grass (Dallisgrass)
A clumpy, rosette-type weed,
dallisgrass has coarse-textured leaves and stems that emerge from the plant
center in a star-like pattern. Dallis grass reproduces from seeds and
underground stems and has extremely deep roots. The grass has a tendency to
turn brown in the center.
Although it's primarily a summer
weed, it grows all year in mild climates. Growth begins quite early in
spring and the plant thrives during warm weather - especially in low, wet
areas and high-cut lawns. Once established, it spreads rapidly even in
low-cut lawns. Dallis grass is a severe problem in the southern United
States.
Control hints: My best advice is to
improve your soil's drainage. If the weed persists, treat it in early spring
or summer with glyphosate, calcium acid methanearsonate (CAMA) or MSMA.
Repeated treatments are often necessary.
Nimblewill
Also termed nimbleweed and dropseed, nimblewill has smooth, flat light-
green or blue-green leaves. Wiry stems grow up to 10 inches tall. In spring,
nimblewill turns green after other grasses, resulting in brown patches
across your lawn. Nimblewill stems root at lower nodes as the plants reach
outward. The weed thrives in hot, dry areas.
Control hints: For small
infestations, dig out patches of the weed. For bigger problems, use a
herbicide containing fluazifop. Either way, begin control in early spring.
Nutsedge
Also known as nutgrass, cocosedge and cocograss, nutsedge has greenish-
yellow leaves that emerge from triangular stems. The nutsedge flower has an
umbrella-like cluster atop its stem. Its yellow-brown seed heads resemble
burs. In summer, nutsedge grows more rapidly than lawn grass. The weed can
multiple from tubers, seeds and underground stems, making it extremely
difficult to eliminate. It prefers over-watered soil.
Control hints: Nutsedge infestations
are a sign that you need to change your lawn-watering techniques or increase
soil drainage. To treat nutsedge chemically, use mecoprop (MCPP).
Grass Weeds: Cool-Season Annual
Annual Bluegrass
Annual bluegrass (Poa anna) is one of
the most troublesome, but least noticed weeds with seeds that germinate in
cool weather from late summer to late fall. The grass grows rapidly in the
spring, especially if fertilizer is applied. Seed heads appear in mid- to
late-spring, at the same height the grass is cut. The seed heads give the
lawn a whitish appearance. When hot, dry weather arrives, the plants die,
leaving bare spots that are sometimes mistaken for disease areas. This weed
is usually found in cool, frequently watered areas, shaded areas and in
areas where the soil is compacted.
Control hints: Weed killers are only
partially effective in controlling annual bluegrass. I try to prevent seeds
from germinating by applying a herbicide with DCPA, atrazine or bensulide as
a preemergent treatment in early- to mid-fall. But don't use any of these
products if you plan to reseed your lawn in the fall. Always apply
herbicides according to label instructions. Use the following yard care
practices in addition to any chemical control:
Water deep and infrequently
Remove clippings to reduce spread
of seeds
Fall fertilization is recommended
and avoid nitrogen and phosphorus applications when seed is germinating
Aerify as often as feasible to
reduce compaction
Black Medic
Other names for this weed include yellow trefoil, black clover or Japanese
clover. Black medic leaves are made up of three-leaflets similar to most
clover leaves and its low-growing stems are slightly hairy. Traditionally a
problem from May through September, black medic forms thick mats that crowd
out other grasses. Its small bright yellow flowers usually bloom in late
spring and early summer, but in warm-weather areas the weed can bloom until
December. These blooms are followed by black kidney-shaped seed pods. Black
medic is prevalent in nitrogen-deficient lawns.
Control hints: You can eliminate
small black medic patches by hand- pulling. But to keep the weed out, you
may need to increase lawn nitrogen with fertilizer. You can stop heavy
infestations with a spray containing mecoprop (MCPP).
Common Groundsel
Also known as grimsel, this weed has 4-inch-long toothed leaves and yellow
flowers that appear from April through October. Common groundsel reproduces
by seeds and by stems that may take root at the lower joints. The plant
grows best in moist, rich soil.
Control hints: Hand-pull or
spot-treat the weed with glyphosate before it produces seed.
Downy Brome
Also known as cheatgrass or military
grass, downy brome grows throughout most of the United States. This slender,
upright weed grows up to 2 feet tall. Its light, green hairy leaves are 2 to
6 inches long.
Drooping purple flower clusters
appear in spring and the weed turns purplish when mature. Downy brome
prospers in sandy or gravely soil and cool growing conditions, and
germinates in either fall or early spring.
Control hints: I remove individual
weeds by hand. But if you want to try a post-emergence chemical control use
fluazifop or glyphosate compounds. To keep the grass from returning, apply a
herbicide containing trifluralin, eptam, or chloral dimethyl before the weed
emerges in the spring.
Prostrate Knotweed
Also called doorweed, knotgrass or matgrass, this plant grows low to the
ground. Prostrate knotweed has smooth, bluish-green, oval leaves and wiry
stems. The joints where leaves attach to the stem are swollen or
"knotty," hence its name. Tiny greenish-white flowers bloom in
clusters at the leaf and stem joints from June through November.
Knotweed forms mats that can extend
more than 2 feet wide. These mats crowd out other grasses. Though knotweed
can't get started in healthy dense turf, it's common in areas of heavy foot
traffic or compacted soil.
Control hints: Aeration is an
excellent preventative for prostrate knotweed. You need to pull young plants
before they get a good foothold, and if necessary, treat your lawn with
mecoprop (MCPP).
Grass Weeds: Warm-Season Annual
Barnyard grass
Barnyard grass, also called watergrass, is usually found in lawns with low
fertility. It reproduces from seeds and develops into a plant with a shallow
root system. Although the natural growth habit of barnyardgrass is upright,
when mowed regularly it forms ground-hugging mats. The weed has a
reddish-purple, flattened stem and smooth leaves with prominent midribs.
Control hints: Kill mats of actively
growing barnyardgrass with calcium acid methanearsonate (CAMA) or fluazifop.
Repeat the treatment two more times, at intervals of seven to 10 days, until
the plants die. To kill barnyardgrass seedlings as they sprout, apply a weed
killer containing DCPA in the early spring, two weeks before the last
expected frost.
Crabgrass
Crabgrass is one of the most common lawn weeds. Its seeds sprout in the
early spring, growing rapidly and producing seeds all summer until the first
killing frost. When a lawn begins to thin out from insects or disease,
crabgrass is one of the first weeds to invade the area. The grassy weed
forms broad, flat clumps in thin areas of the lawn. It grows rapidly through
the summer, rooting easily at the stem joints. Seed heads grow from the
center of the plant.
Control hints: Kill actively growing
crabgrass with a herbicide containing fluazifop, glyphosate or calcium acid
methanearsonate (CAMA). Older plants are harder to kill; repeat the
treatment two more times at four-to-seven day intervals, if necessary.
To kill crabgrass seeds as they
germinate, I apply a weed killer containing DCPA or pendimethalin in the
early spring, two weeks before the last expected frost. A thick lawn seldom
contains much crabgrass.
Foxtail
Found throughout the United States,
foxtail thrives in sunny, bare spots. Its leaves are 2 to 6 inches long,
flat and sometimes appear twisted. The weed grows best in damp, well
fertilized soil. Foxtail is sometimes confused with crabgrass because both
grow in clumps.
Control hints: Since foxtail
reproduces from seed only, it can be removed successfully by hand.
Goose grass (goosegrass)
Also called yardgrass and silver crabgrass, this weed is most often found
where bluegrass stands are thin. Goose grass resembles crabgrass, but is a
darker green and has a silver center. The weed germinates later than
crabgrass and its stems are smooth and flat. As the weed develops, its stems
form a rosette resembling wheel spokes.
Goose grass multiplies from seeds
and expands by spreading. Its seeds are produced on stalks which appear from
July to October. Goose grass prefers compacted soils with poor drainage and
light, frequent watering.
Control hints: This grass has an
extensive root system, making it difficult to pull. I recommend a treatment
containing calcium acid methanearsonate (CAMA) or a glyphosate compound.
Sandbur
Also called burgrass, this weed has yellow-green leaf blades. In mown lawns,
sandbur tends to form low mats, but in unmown lawns, it may reach 2 feet
tall. Tell-tale spiny seed burs appear from July through September. Sandbur
grows best in sandy, dry soil.
Control hints: Begin control by
increasing your soil's organic-matter content and encouraging strong lawn
growth. If weeds persist, I'd advise spot treatments with calcium acid
methanearsonate (CAMA), fluazifop or glyphosate.
Shepherds purse
Otherwise known as shepherd's-bag or lady's purse, this weed may appear
throughout the year in warm-winter areas. Its arrow-shaped leaves are
toothed and form a rosette that may be confused with dandelions. Tiny white
flower clusters develop into triangular seed pods resembling small sack-like
purses. Shepherds purse is not fussy about soil, but it won't grow in shade.
Control hints: I take care of these
weed problems by hand, but if you have a large infestation you may want to
use a herbicide containing mecoprop (MCPP).
These herbicides are applied to the
soil to stop seed growth. They're most effective on annuals and generally
have no effect on emerged seedlings. In general, pre-emergence applications
are made in the very early spring to control cool-season weeds and in
mid-spring to handle warm-season annuals.
If you need to control weeds that have
already emerged from the soil, you need a post-emergence herbicide. These
treatments are most effective when applied under moist soil conditions to
young, actively growing weeds.
Why can't all weeds be killed
with one kind of weed killer?
Because weeds germinate at different
times of the year and have different types of roots. One herbicide,
glyphosate, does destroy just about every weed around, but it also can take
out your grass if it touches it.
If you're going to have weeds, this is
the kind to have - broadleaves are the easiest to control! post-emergence herbicides do the best job. They'll kill certain broadleaf weeds without
damaging your grass. But to be most effective, you need to apply them when
weeds are young and actively growing.
A word of caution: you still must be
careful where you apply these herbicides as they can damage or even kill
desirable plants such as flowers, shrubs, vegetables or trees. Popular post-emergence
herbicide include dicamba, 2,4-D and mecoprop (MCPP).
Stopping annual grasses such as
crabgrass and foxtail usually takes a pre-emergence herbicide. These
chemicals kill plants as the seed germinates,so to be effective, you've got
to apply the herbicide before the weed seed germinates. Since you won't be
able to see the weed, treat only those areas where grass problems were seen
last year. Popular pre-emergence herbicides contain bensulide, DCPA, sidurona
or metribuzin.
Perennial grasses such as quackgrass or
tall fescue are some of the toughest weed problems you'll find. Control can
only be achieved using a non-selective post-emergence herbicide. But
remember, these products kill most all the plants they touch - including the
desirable grasses. Consequently, they're only applied to spots of weed
invasions. Following application of these products, you may need to re-seed
the area.
First and foremost, read the product's
label and follow those directions! Proper lawn preparation is essential to
get the most from your pre-emergence herbicide. You'll need to remove trash,
leaves and excess dead grass from the lawn, then apply the herbicide as
directed on the label. I'd recommend applying the herbicide at a half rate,
but doubling the coverage by applying the product in two directions. This
assures more even distribution than a full rate applied in a single
direction.
Finally, after application, water
your lawn thoroughly. Watering moves the herbicide in to the soil where it
can go to work on your weeds.
Can I use a
pre-emergence
herbicide on my new lawn?
Not right away. Even if the herbicide
isn't supposed to affect your newly planted grass, many products can be
fatal to seedling grasses. Seedlings are far more sensitive to herbicides
than mature plants. That's why it's best to delay applications until a newly
planted area has been mowed at least three times.
First and foremost, read the product's
label and follow those directions! Use all your pesticides with caution.
Apply them only to the weeds you want to remove. Don't spray when it's windy
or when rain is predicted within 24 hours. Likewise, don't water the area
for 24 hours after application. And avoid using herbicides during hot
weather - that's when damage to desirable grasses is more likely to occur.
post-emergence herbicides are applied
to the foliage of growing weeds, so you shouldn't mow for several days
before or after the treatment. Unlike pre-emergence herbicides, don't water
your lawn for several days after applying a post-emergence herbicide and
avoid spraying them if rain is expected within 24 hours.
Can I use Roundup
(glyphosate)
safely around trees and shrubs?
Yes, but be careful. Roundup is a
non-selective herbicide and can injure or even kill these desirable plants.
Spray close to the ground and use it only on a calm day.
If I double the application
rate of a herbicide, won't it do a better job?
Absolutely not! Weed killers don't gain
effectiveness if mixed at a concentration stronger than the instructions
recommend. In fact, using too strong a mixture can damage or kill desirable
plants and even cause environmental problems.
I sprayed my weeds several days
ago and they still aren't dead. Why?
Herbicides can take from three to 10
days to produce visible results. I'd encourage you to wait at least two
weeks before re-treatment - after all, herbicide overdoses are dangerous to
surrounding grasses.
What's the best way to wash my
sprayer to make sure all of the herbicide is out?
I suggest thoroughly rinsing your
sprayer three or four times after each use. First, rinse with laundry soap,
then follow with a baking soda rinse. But even with these guidelines, once
you've used a sprayer for herbicide application, never use it for any other
purpose.
Note: If the Valve Installation and
Operation manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
We would be more than happy to try to locate the manual for you. Remember,
this page is updated often, so check back!
The ICV is a prime example of today's technological capabilities.
This new valve is as rugged, durable and reliable as any commercial
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The economical valve for residential systems, offering reliable
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Residential Valve Now it?s possible to service a Hunter valve
without using any tools to gain access to the inner workings of the
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Rugged, professional grade valves for a full range of landscape
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Now it?s possible to service a Hunter valve without using any tools
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Rotor Sprinkler
Installation
and Adjustment Manuals
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Offering the most complete package of performance features in the
industry, the mid-range CR500 rotor provides part- and full-circle
operation in a single unit. Radius: 32 to 50 feet.
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remote
manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
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We would be more than happy to try to locate the manual for you. Remember,
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Primary Application
Offer reliable battery-operated communication with
Rain Bird remote compatible controllers (ESP-Si and ESP-LX+) from anywhere
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Details and Diligence: A Guide to Seasonal Rotor Maintenance
An irrigation system's overall efficiency is directly related to how well it's adjusted, if repairs are done correctly and in a timely manner. If the systems under your care are not properly maintained, water waste and inferior appearance of turf and landscaped areas are a sure bet.
Proper system maintenance is easy if you are diligent in your inspection, carefully follow the correct repair steps and use the most efficient equipment. Nowhere is this more evident than with rotors, especially closed-case rotors. Though they are designed to be nearly maintenance-free, today's rotors are an essential part of many irrigation systems and, therefore, should receive a dose of seasonal "TLC" to ensure proper operation.
In northern climates, the irrigation system should be physically inspected annually, usually at the beginning of the season. In southern climates, an inspection should be performed at least twice a year.
During the inspection you should check each rotor for proper arc adjustment, thatch build up, proper rotation, worn nozzles and worn seals. Occasionally, you may also find cracked cases and clogged screens. Most of these are simple to detect and fix. However, it requires you to spend the time to watch each rotor operating.
Following is a checklist for seasonal rotor maintenance:
Arc Adjustment - It's important to spend the time to make sure that each part-circle rotor moves completely through its properly adjusted arc pattern. Children playing and vandals sometimes change the rotor's arc setting. If the arc requires modification, readjust it according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Thatch Build Up - As grass grows it develops thatch. Thatch is partially decomposed organic material between the grass blade and the soil. If the thatch interferes with the water stream from the nozzle, it may need to be removed and thinned. In older systems, it may be necessary to dig up the rotor, attach a riser and physically raise the height of the rotor.
Rotation - As with arc adjustment, it is very important to observe each rotor in operation to ensure it rotates. If the rotor does not rotate, replace it with a comparable rotor and nozzle.
Worn Nozzles - If a nozzle is worn, the rotor will have a reduced radius of throw the water stream will appear "rough." Worn nozzles usually occur in older systems or systems that have a dirty, or gritty water source. Replace worn nozzles with the manufacturer's recommended nozzles.
Worn Seals - A rotor with worn seals may display a flow of water between the rotor's turret and the cap. However, worn seals may only exhibit a slight weeping between the rotor turret and the cap. In either case, the seal or the cap needs to be replaced. Some manufacturer's rotors allow the seal to be replaced. When the seal is an integral part of the cap, the entire cap needs to be replaced.
Cracked Case - This problem can be difficult to detect. It will appear as an unusually wet area at the rotor. This problem is usually found along a driveway and is the result of the rotor being run over by a vehicle. Sometimes it is also the result of an improperly winterized system.
To correct the problem, the rotor must be removed and the case replaced. However, there may be hidden damage to the rotor turret or the drive mechanism. It may be more sensible to replace the entire rotor.
Clogged Screens - Manufacturer's provide screens at the base of the rotor or turret to trap dirt and debris which would otherwise clog the nozzle. When enough debris is trapped, the blockage will cause low pressure, restrict flow and reduce the radius of throw.
Clogged screens are commonly caused by:
A buildup of dirt and debris introduced to the irrigation system as the result of a repair
Broken pipes downstream of the rotor which can pull dirt into the line
Algae buildup
To correct a clogged screen, remove the rotor internals and completely flush the line. Remove any debris from the screen. It is important to take care while flushing the line so that no additional debris is washed back into the system.
Rotor maintenance is fairly simple if you follow a few simple steps. In fact, the time spent inspecting the system and making minor adjustments and repairs will help an irrigation system perform well for many years. Moreover, your efforts will not only ensure the landscape remains healthy and beautiful, it will virtually guarantee a satisfied customer.
Water in the early morning (before sunrise) when water pressure is
greatest, evaporation is minimal and the lawn drinks in the most water. Do
not water in the evening because water will sit on the lawn and may cause
disease. Do not water in the heat of the day because the sun will evaporate
water before it can soak in. To water your lawn efficiently, you need to
provide the right amount of water, evenly distributed, in the right places
and at the right time.
There are three things to consider: the weather, the type of soil and the
depth of roots.
Weather is the most obvious factor.
When it's hotter you'll need to water more frequently. In the summer you'll
probably need to water every other day, if not every day (depending, of
course, on where you live).
The type of soil affects how much
water is available for the grass to use. Heavy (clay) soils hold the most
water, meaning you'll probably water less frequently. Sandy soils do not
hold water well, so you'll water them more often. Deeper roots mean there is
more available water for the grass and, therefore, you'll need to water less
frequently. Think of the soil as a sponge that holds water for the grass.
The deeper the sponge, the more water it can hold. It is wise to establish
watering practices that encourage deep root growth. This allows lawns to go
longer between watering, cutting down on disease potential and, ultimately,
the amount of water you'll use.
This will be driven by the weather. Water is lost from your lawn through
a process called evapotranspiration. Evapotranspiration--usually referred to
as "ET"-- is the combined effect of water used by the plant and
that which is lost to evaporation. ET is expressed in inches (or mm) of
water per week. Your watering schedule should be set up to replace the water
lost to ET. Check with your local university extension for ET rates in your
area. Many areas publish ET rates in the daily press.
Water should penetrate to the depth of the roots (fill the root zone) or
to the depth that roots are desired. This should be at least six inches. The
next scheduled watering should occur when about half of the water is used
via ET. Allowing much more loss could result in plant stress (see below).
If too much water is allowed to leave the soil, your lawn will not be
able to extract what's left for its own use, leading to stress. This makes
the grass weak and susceptible to physical damage, insect damage and
disease.
More lawns are harmed by too much water than not enough. Over watering
causes nutrients to be flushed away, resulting in higher fertilizer
requirements. Over watering also displaces oxygen from the soil, which leads
to shallow roots and a lawn that is disease prone and weed infested.
If your lawn can't get enough water it will first go into a dormant
stage, often marked by a bluish color. If the drought continues until the
soil water is fully used, death will result for most cool-season grasses.
Bermudas and other warm-season grasses will probably recover, however, the
lawn's quality will not.
What are the
elements of an automatic irrigation system?
Controller/Timer
The controller, or timer, is the brain of your system, telling your
sprinklers what day, what time and exactly how much to water.
Valves
Installed above or below the ground, usually near the water source, valves
regulate water flow to the sprinklers.
Pressure Vacuum Breaker
(PVB) PVBs prevent water from your sprinkler system (and therefore any
fertilizer or chemical contaminants) from re-entering the clean water
supply. Toro® manufactures several pressure vacuum devices to meet your
local building code specifications.
Lawn Sprinklers
Installed in a special pattern for complete and even coverage, a properly
designed automatic sprinkler system delivers precise coverage without gaps
or runoff.
Rain Switch (Optional)
A Rain Switch signals your system to shut off automatically when it's
raining. There's no sense watering when nature is doing its part. The Rain
Switch is a highly reliable and inexpensive option that saves countless
gallons of water.
The type of sprinkler you use really depends on what's being watered.
There are five basic sprinkler types: fixed sprays, flood bubblers, stream
bubblers, single-stream rotors and multi-stream rotors.
Fixed-spray sprinklers
produce a
tight, constant fan of water ideal for small lawn, shrub and ground cover
areas. Pop-up models pop up above grasses and disappear when not in use.
Shrub sprays are mounted above foliage to water ground cover and shrubs.
Flood bubblers produce a flow of
water that soaks the soil without wetting the leaves. They're ideal for tree
wells, planters and shrubs.
Stream bubblers are for efficient
watering of small planter beds and shrubs areas. Stream bubblers are
available in a variety of patterns.
Gear-driven, single-stream rotary sprinklers cover large lawn areas
most efficiently. Some single-stream rotors have an arc adjustment for
placement in corners. Like other pop-up sprinklers, they pop up above
grasses and disappear when not in use.
Gear-driven, multi-stream rotary
sprinklers produce thin, attractive streams of water that slowly rotate to
ensure proper penetration for medium-sized lawn and shrub areas.
Multi-stream, pop-up lawn and shrub models are excellent for lawns or ground
cover--especially on slopes.
What
are the advantages of an automatic sprinkler system?
Convenience.
How many times have you forgotten to water your lawn, then over
watered--only to end up with brown spots and muddy puddles? Like many
homeowners, you could be using up to 50% more water than your landscape
needs. Which isn't good for your pocketbook or for your lawn. The solution
isn't to use more water, but to water more precisely. An automatic sprinkler
system can give you a healthy, green lawn--and more free time to enjoy the
beautiful results. An Automatic Sprinkler System takes the work and
worry out of watering your lawn. You can forget about tripping over hoses or
sprinklers, fixing leaky faucets and hauling hoses around the yard. While
you're enjoying the ball game, your lawn enjoys the right amount of water,
in the right spots, at the right time.
Greener lawns and gardens.
Hose-end products simply cannot match the performance of a properly
installed irrigation system. Adjustable sprinklers allow you to fine-tune
coverage and minimize waste.
More efficient watering.
An automatic system delivers gentle, even watering for a more thorough
soaking. There's less runoff and wasted water. The system can be programmed
to water at the best time, early in the morning.
Attractive.
Pop-up sprinklers stay out of sight when not in use. All you need to do
is enjoy your lawn.
Improves your home.
Installing a Automatic Sprinkler System immediately adds value to
your home. It also protects your gardening and landscaping investment and
keeps it growing while saving time and water.
Choosing an
Irrigation Contractor A Very Important Decision
The
success of your irrigation system depends largely on the contractor you
choose to design and install it. A contractor's expertise and skills
will affect your system's efficiency and reliability. In fact, how your
irrigation system is designed and installed will make the difference
between a system that continues to keep your lawn healthy and green, and
one that creates problems by wasting water and leaving your lawn
unhealthy and brown. Choosing the right contractor is a big decision,
but it is not as difficult as you may think. Here are a few tips that
will help you select a contractor who will guarantee a job well done.
What to Expect
An
efficient, well-organized contractor will be happy to provide you with
all the information you need to make an informed choice. First, the
contractor will want to view your property in order to determine soil
conditions, water sources and pressure, and planting materials. He will
then present a formal estimate detailing what he plans to do and the
total price for design, materials, and installation. Along with the
estimate, the contractor should clearly explain all the project
specifics. Generally, there should be little disruption to existing
foliage, and the average job should take less than a week.
Questions to Ask
The
best contractors will encourage you to ask many questions. By asking
questions, you will know what type of sprinkler system you are getting
for your money and what to expect from your new system. Here are a few
important questions to consider:
What type of product
will be used and why? A professional
should tell you what type of controller, valves, rotors, or spray
heads are best for your landscape.
Is after-sale service
provided? A professional should be
willing and able to provide after-sale service.
Is there a system
warranty? A professional’s work
should be guaranteed — a one-year warranty is typical.
Does he have
references available? A professional
should be willing to provide you with the names and telephone
numbers of recent satisfied customers, so you can call and check his
references.
You Get What You Pay
For
When choosing a contractor, you should be
wary of those who offer to charge you significantly less than others.
Low bidders may not be licensed or insured and may often use
cost-cutting techniques that can jeopardize your lawn and shorten the
life of your system.
Watch out for these commonly used,
undesirable short-cuts:
Not including a
backflow preventer: This is often
required by local codes to protect your drinking water.
Installing sprinklers
too far apart: This makes it
impossible for certain areas to receive enough water and can cause
brown spots during the hot summer months.
Mixing sprinklers with
different application rates on the same line:
This causes one area to be overwatered in order to
sufficiently water another.
Not using special
watertight connectors and a protective valve box:
These components are necessary to safeguard the
electrical elements, guard against short circuits and prevent
corrosion.
Confidence Counts
Above
all, you should choose a contractor you trust and in whom you feel
confident. It is also important that he installs professional series
products such as those manufactured by Rain Bird. For over 70 years,
professional irrigation contractors have used Rain Bird products to
provide the industry's most cost-effective and reliable irrigation
systems. Choosing a contractor who uses Rain Bird professional series
products is the best way to ensure that your project will be done right.
Your
sprinkler system is a complex network of pipes, valves, sprinklers, and
electrical connections. Because it serves as the circulation system for
your entire yard, the design and installation of your sprinkler system
is critical. This is a complicated process that requires specialized
tools and equipment, as well as a strong knowledge of landscape design
and hydraulics. This is why it is so important to have a professional
contractor design and install your system.
Cool season lawns are the Kentuckey
bluegrass, fescue rye, and bermuda varieties. The general steps to turfgrass
establishment of cool season lawns include:
Obtain a soil fertility test and
fertilizer recommendations.
Rough grade.
Apply lime or sulphur if needed.
Apply fertilizer as recommended by
soil test.
Apply soil physical amendments if
needed.
Till above materials into soil 4-6
inch depth.
Finish-grade.
Apply starter fertilizer and work
into top inch of soil.
Once soil has been tilled, a great
deal of time and effort are required to prepare a firm, granular seedbed.
Where surface grade and soil physical conditions are acceptable, lawns can
be re-established with minimal effort by killing the existing undesirable
vegetation and incorporating seed into the surface.
Regardless of how the site is
prepared, it is important that seed be incorporated into the top 1/4 inch of
soil. On loose, bare soils, this can easily be done by lightly raking the
seed into the surface. On hard compact soils or soils with existing
vegetation and thatch, the seed should be mechanically incorporated into the
soil by verticutting, slit-seeding, or intense coring. Scattering seed on
the surface without incorporation is a waste of time and money
Soil testing. A soil test is needed
to determine the lime and fertilizer requirements to ensure good turfgrass
establishment and future growth. The test results provide your soil pH value
and if lime will be required. A soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5 is optimum for
turfgrass growth. When pH is optimum, other nutrients such as nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium are readily available from the soil for plant
uptake. Lime is used to raise soil pH, and sulphur is added to lower pH.
Phosphorus and potassium needs, if any, will also be indicated on the soil
test report. Phosphorus is especially important for root development and
seedling establishment. Phosphorus is most effective when incorporated into
the top 4-6 inches of the soil because it moves downward slowly.
One pound of nitrogen per 1,000
square feet is typically applied for turfgrass establishment.
Soil preparation. Proper attention
to grading for surface drainage and conserving or developing topsoil will
lead to easier care of your lawn in the years to come. Push aside existing
topsoil when construction or excessive grade changes are required. Topsoil
will be evenly spread over the site once the rough grading is completed.
The area should be rough graded with
gentle slopes to adequately drain or divert surface water without erosion.
Liming and fertilizing. Apply the
required amount of lime, phosphorus and potassium recommended on the soil
test report for establishing a lawn. Where a soil test is not available, and
if soils have required liming in the past but have not been limed for at
least two years, apply 25 pounds of finely ground limestone per 1,000 square
feet. Also apply 5 to 7 pounds per 1,000 square feet of 0-46-0 phosphorus
fertilizer. Phosphorus is not very mobile in the soil and should be
incorporated in the root zone (top 4 to 6 inches of soil) during this step.
Nitrogen and potassium are very mobile in the soil and easily can be
distributed by surface application.
Thoroughly till the lime and
fertilizer materials into the surface 4 to 6 inches of soil. Do not exceed
three pounds per 1,000 square feet of 0-46-0 fertilizer if nutrients are not
to be incorporated into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil. These practices are
aimed at building the basic soil fertility to an acceptable level. Use a
starter fertilizer in addition to building the basic soil fertility.
Apply a starter fertilizer
immediately prior to seeding. Broadcast and work into the top 1 inch of soil
30 pounds of 10-5-5 or 10-6-4 fertilizer, or 20 pounds of a 16-8-8
fertilizer, or the equivalent, per 1,000 square feet. The fertilizer must be
turf grade with an approximate 2:1:1 ratio and contain 30 percent or more of
the total nitrogen as water insoluble or controlled release nitrogen.
Application at the recommended rate should provide adequate nutrition for a
full growing season.
As an alternative starter
fertilizer, apply 10 pounds of 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 farm-grade (soluble
nitrogen) fertilizer or equivalent per 1,000 square feet (for example, five
to six pounds of 20-20-20 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet). Using nitrogen
fertilizers that contain only soluble nitrogen will necessitate additional
nitrogen after six to eight weeks of growing weather.
Soil amendments. A soil test will
indicate if organic matter is required. Organic matter, such as peat moss or
compost, can be added to clay soils to improve drainage and aerification.
The same organic matter can be added to sandy soils to help hold water and
nutrients in the soil. Fresh organic matter - manure, straw, or fresh saw
dust - is not usually recommended because it can cause a temporary nitrogen
imbalance that will lead to slow growth and grass yellowing.
Well-rotted sawdust, peat moss and
mushroom soil are also good sources of organic matter that tend to last
longer in the soil than most other organic matter sources. Organic matter
should be worked into the top 2 to 4 inches of soil before applying the
starter fertilizer.
Final grading. Rake the area to the
finish grade just prior to seeding. Light rolling will indicate any low
spots or other irregularities to the area. A proper final surface will be
firm enough to prevent ruts made by seeding equipment, but will be loose and
crumbly so that seed easily can be raked into the top 1/4 inch of soil. Once
these steps have been properly followed, you are ready to install a turf by
seeding or sodding. Back to top
How do I install the turf?
Selecting the right time of the year
to seed cool-season grasses is the most important factor in successful lawn
establishment. The best time to seed cool-season grasses is in the late
summer because temperatures are still warm enough to promote rapid
germination when provided with rain or irrigation. The cooler temperatures
and shorter days of the approaching fall are ideal for further growth and
development of young seedling grasses.
Establishing cool-season grasses
from seed in the spring can be extremely difficult. In some cases, complete
failure should be expected. The daily watering required to germinate
turfgrass seeds during spring establishment will also promote excessive weed
growth, especially crabgrass. If you are lucky enough to beat the crabgrass,
expect to continue the battle with frequent summer irrigations to prevent
moisture stress. Even if moisture is adequate, summer temperatures may
severely thin or completely kill seedling turf. The constant summer watering
required by seedling turf will also increase the chance of Pythium damping
off and brown patch. Both of these fungal diseases are encouraged by the
same conditions that promote seedling growth - wet soils, frequent watering
and summer nitrogen.
Sod of Kentucky bluegrass or tall
fescue can be installed during most of the year except in mid-winter when
the ground is frozen. When extreme heat and drought conditions exist in
summer, sod should be cut and laid during a 12- to 24-hour period. If done
under drought conditions, the turf must be kept moist and cool. The soil
should be watered enough to cool it prior to installation, and again
thoroughly watered immediately after the sod is laid.
Seed vs. sod. A quality lawn
containing the recommended mixtures of specific grass varieties and species
can be established with either seed or sod. When seeding, however, there are
many more species and varieties from which to select compared to sodding.
Most sod grown in Missouri is straight Kentucky bluegrass or a mixture of
mostly tall fescue combined with a small amount of Kentucky bluegrass. Some
tall fescue sod is also available on plastic netting.
Initially, seed is less expensive
than sod. However, successful establishment is more risky with seed than
with sod, and if reseeding of certain areas or even an entire lawn is
necessary, the overall expense may be less with sod. Also, the area is
exposed to erosion because of the time required for seed to germinate and
become well rooted in the soil. Sodding practically eliminates such
problems, a consideration that may be especially important on steep hills or
banks. Sod also reduces the chance of pesticide and nutrient contamination
from surface runoff.
Sodding provides an immediately
pleasing turf that is quickly functional, and it will compete with viable
weed seed already present in the soil. Seeding usually requires intensive
weed control during the first year of establishment.
Seed should be used only to
established lawns in early fall or early spring, whereas sod offers less
time limitations in that it may be established in nearly any season. Sodding
of cool-season grasses in the spring is preferred to seeding. Back to top
How do I do the seeding?
Before seeding, be sure that the
soil has been prepared properly and is smooth and level.
Seed small areas by hand. A
fertilizer spreader can be used in larger areas. When seeding by hand, try
to apply five to 10 seeds per square inch. Heavier seedings will cause weak,
spindly seedlings and spotty establishment. Calibrate spreaders to supply
half the amount of seed in one pass over the area. Divide the amount of seed
to be sown into two groups. Spread the first group of seed. Then spread the
second group at a right angle to the first group, applying the second group
of seed over the first.
Rake the seed to cover it with 1/8-
to 1/4-inch of soil. Roll lightly to make good contact between seed and
soil. Use a light layer of straw as mulch - one and one-half to two bales
per 1,000 square feet. This helps hasten germination, keeps soil moist and
protects young seedlings. The soil should remain moist from the surface to
just below the active root zone.
At first, this moist zone will be
shallow and require light, frequent irrigation. Use a fine spray to sprinkle
seeds one to four times per day until young seedlings are established. As
the grass develops, irrigate deeper and less frequent.
Sodding. Sodding is the installation
of commercially grown turf. Sod has a carpet-like appearance consisting of
green shoots attached to roots and soil. It usually comes in 3-foot
sections, 18 inches wide, with less than 1/2 inch of soil attached.
Sodding has the advantage of almost
immediate establishment, but its disadvantages are initial cost and the high
amount of labor involved.
Choose high-quality sod that is
actively growing. Sod is perishable and should not remain on the pallet or stack for more than 36
hours. The presence of mildew and distinct yellowing of the leaves is
usually good evidence of reduced turf vigor from being stacked too long.
To lay the sod, start with a
straight edge such as a driveway or sidewalk. Unroll sod pieces tightly
against each other, but don't overlap. Using a sharp knife, cut pieces to
fit curves or small areas. After the sod has been laid, roll it to ensure
good contact with the soil. Be sure to water thoroughly, and water every
day. Back to top
What do I do for
post-installation care?
Watering. Newly seeded or sodded
lawns require special irrigation. A newly seeded lawn requires daily
watering, and may need as many as four light waterings in a single day if
conditions are dry and windy. Keep the seedbed moist, but not saturated, to
a depth of 1 to 2 inches until germination occurs (green cast to lawn and
seedlings are quarter to half inch tall). At this stage it is crucial that
seedlings are not stressed to the point of wilt.
Continue to water one to four times
a day with light applications, approximately 1/8 to 1/4 inch of water per
day. Straw applied at time of seeding helps to shade the soil and to prevent
rapid drying of the soil surface. It will also reduce seedling damaged from
the force of large sprinkler drops.
Watering with a light mist is best
for establishing new lawns. As seedlings reach 2 inches, gradually reduce
the frequency of watering and water more deeply. After the new lawn has been
mowed two or three times, water deeply and infrequently.
Newly sodded lawns require watering
one or two times a day. Begin irrigation immediately after laying sod. Plan
your sodding operation so that a section of laid sod can immediately be
watered while other areas are being sodded. Sod should be watered so that
the sod strip is wet as well as the top 1 inch of soil below the sod.
The first irrigation requires about
1 inch of water to achieve complete wetting of the sod. After watering, lift
up pieces of sod at several locations to determine if it has been adequately
irrigated. Continue watering one to two times a day with light irrigations
to prevent wilting and to ensure a moist soil just below the sod layer. As
sod becomes established and roots penetrate and grow in the soil, gradually
reduce the frequency of watering but wet the soil deeper. After sod has been
mowed two or three times water deeply and infrequently.
During hot, windy conditions,
establishing sod may require several light mistings per day to prevent wilt
and potentially high lethal temperatures. In this case, mist the sod lightly
just to wet the leaf surface and not to supply water to the soil. Misting
cools the grass plant as water is evaporated from the leaves.
Do not over-irrigate the soil
because that will inhibit sod roots from growing into the soil. In
situations where daily watering is not possible, thoroughly water the sod
and soil to a depth of 6 inches. This will delay the rooting time of sod but
will reduce the chance of rapid drying and severe loss of grass. Back to top
How do I control weeds?
Spring seeded cool-season grasses. Even though spring
seeding of cool-season grasses is not as successful as fall seeding, spring and
early summer seeding may be unavoidable. Some tips may help your attempt to
establish cool season grasses.
Seed as
early as possible.
Consider
using a slit seeder or drill that causes minimal surface disturbance. This
reduces competition from weed seeds that may be brought to the surface from
complete tillage.
Competition
from crabgrass is a major problem with spring seeding, especially when the
lawn is seeded with mostly Kentucky bluegrass. Siduron (Tupersan) is the
only pre-emergent crabgrass herbicide that can be used with new spring
seedings, and it will not harm the planted turf grasses as they emerge. It
should be applied as the final operation after seeding and prior to
crabgrass germination.
If lawn
grasses are seeded in February or March, wait until mid-April to apply
siduron so that crabgrass control will last longer into the summer. Shaded
areas of the lawn do not need crabgrass control.
After three
or four mowings, usually at least a month after grass emerges, apply a low
rate of 2,4-D on actively growing grass if broadleaved weeds appear to be
overpowering the grass. Do not use herbicides if you do not have a serious
weed problem - frequent mowing and proper starter fertilizer may be the only
management necessary to establish grass. Broadleaved weeds easily can be
controlled during the following year, provided the turf is able to initially
establish without being crowded out by weeds.
Use
slightly higher seeding rates to ensure rapid cover and improve competition
with annual weedy grasses. Perennial ryegrass, because of its rapid
germination, stands the greatest chance of survival during the first year.
Tall fescue is the next best choice in terms of showing at least a modest
stand of grass by the fall.
Kentucky
bluegrass requires two to four weeks to germinate in the spring. It usually
develops a modest stand of grass in the spring. However, by fall it may be
completely lost to weed competition and "summer pressure."
Seeding
Rate
(pounds/1,000 sq ft)
Grass
Higher
Rate (Spring)
Normal
Rate (Fall)
Kentucky Bluegrass
3
2
Tall Fescue
10
7
Perennial Ryegrass
10
7
Fall seeded
cool-season grasses. Fall seedings are much more successful than spring
seedings because crabgrass and summer stress are not a problem. However,
winter annual broadleaved weeds such as henbit, chickweed and speedwell may
require control. These weeds germinate September through November, grow
during the winter and result in a dense mat of weeds by early spring.
If weeds
dominate the new lawn in the fall, use a post-emergence herbicide, such as
2,4-D, after the lawn has been mowed at least three times, usually one and
one half months after grass germination. Apply broadleaf herbicides on a
warm sunny day in the fall when no frost is expected. If needed, winter
annual broadleaved weeds can also be killed in late March and April. Even
though these weeds naturally die in May, without herbicide application, they
should be controlled in early spring if they are overly competitive.
If
annual broadleaved weeds are left uncontrolled, turf will appear thin and
weakened throughout the summer in areas where weeds have naturally died.
A number of circular patches
are forming in my yard. The centers remain green, but the edges are
dying. What should I do?
This tell-tale "frog-eye"
pattern is caused by several fungi. Called Fusarium blight, this is generally
only a problem from June through August. Two of the most susceptible grass
varieties are bentgrass and Kentucky bluegrass. Lawns are particularly
susceptible to the disease when they are under stress from drought. Once these
fungi go to work in your yard, you may have trouble stopping them.
Solution: Your best bet may be to
re-seed with resistant grass varieties. Even then, I'd suggest treating the
whole lawn with a fungicide containing benomyl or iprodione next year.
Complete control is difficult to achieve. Back to top
During hot, humid weather,
patches of slimy, water-soaked grass appear. When the spots dry, the
leaves turn brown and die - all within 24 hours. What's wrong?
If your infected blades mat together
when you walk on them and white cobweb-like threads can be seen in the early
morning, my guess is you've got Pythium blight (cottony blight). Lawns under
stress are most susceptible, particularly those with dense, lush grass. Be
careful of this fungus, because it spreads easily. Flowing water, lawn-mower
wheels and even your shoes can spread the disease. And because its works so
quickly, your entire yard can die in literally hours. Solution (Your only
hope): Treat your yard with a fungicide containing chloroneb or ethazole as
soon as you notice the disease. Repeat the treatment every five to 10 days
until the symptoms disappear. Severely infected areas often don't recover, so
you may need to re-seed your lawn. To prevent this problem before it gets a
foot-hold, avoid over-watering - especially in newly seeded areas - and make
sure you've got good drainage. Back to top
Why are brown blotches
appearing on my leaf blades and small, circular areas of my lawn dying?
It sounds like you've got a case of
dollar spot. This fungus is active during warm, wet weather (usually May to
June and September to October). Lawns with moisture or nitrogen deficiencies
are particularly susceptible. While dollar spot rarely causes permanent
damage, it may take the yard several weeks to recover. Solution: I'd use a
fungicide containing chlorothalonil, iprodione or thiophanate. You'll probably
need two applications, spaced seven to 10 days apart. You can keep dollar spot
at bay by increasing nitrogen applications, keeping thatch at a minimum and
providing adequate water.
My yard has large, circular
patches of brown grass. The leaves first appear water-soaked, but dry
and turn dark brown. What should I do?
If you live in a warm, humid area, you
may have brown patch. This fungus attacks lush, tender growth, so you'll
usually find it in yards with excessive nitrogen. Often only the blades are
affected and the grass will recover. However, severe infections can kill your
grass.
Solution: To stop brown patch, you'll
need a fungicide with chlorothalonil and at least three treatments spaced
seven-to-10 days apart. To prevent it, avoid heavy doses of nitrogen
fertilizer, keep your thatch under control and aerate your yard regularly.
There's a white crust on
portions of my soil and the grass in those areas is slowly dying. How
can I correct the problem?
You're probably looking at salt damage
caused either by insufficient watering or poor drainage. The problem: when
water evaporates from the soil, the dissolved salts are accumulating near the
soil surface.
Solution: The only way to eliminate
excess salts is to wash them through the soil with water. If the damage is
restricted to a few low spots in your yard, simply fill the areas. If the
entire lawn drains poorly, try regular aerating. And, if drainage isn't the
problem, increase the amount of water applied at each watering by 50 percent
or more to leach the salts below the root zone of the grass.
Thinning grass is normally a sign of heavy thatch.
Heavy thatch slows grass growth by restricting the movement of water, air
and nutrients in the soil.
Mushrooms and toadstools can be an
annoyance. However, they do no harm to the grass. Mushrooms
are fungi that grow on decaying vegetable
matter in the soil. This might be buried stumps
or tree roots, logs, boards or a thick thatch.
Mushrooms often pop up
following heavy rains or watering and may indicate a too-acid soil and may
need lime. Test your soil to check its pH; the best pH for a healthy lawn is
slightly acid, about 6.5.
They can be removed by raking or
sweeping, however no compound will kill mushrooms and
toadstools without injury to the grass. You will not be rid of the mushrooms until the buried material has
completely decayed or until you dig up these pieces
of rotting debris.
Homeowners can use a "3-way"
product (eg. Trimec) which contains 2,4-D plus MCPP plus dicamba. Fall
treatment will result in better control than spring treatment. Make two
applications three weeks apart. The first application will burn the foliage
and after regrowth occurs, a second application should complete the job.
To stop the spread of bamboo roots place
a solid physical barrier (metal, wood) in to the ground to a depth of about
24". Slant the bottom of the barrier about 10 degrees toward the bamboo
trees so the roots are encouraged to grow up towards the surface where they
stop.
Kill moss either mechanically by raking
it up or chemically by spraying it. A spray of copper sulfate (3 to 5 oz per 5
gal. of water per 1,000 sq.ft) or iron sulfate (3 oz per 5 gal. of water per
10,000 sq. ft) will kill moss. A soap (fatty acid) spray called
"De-Moss" will also kill moss. However, killing it is only the first
step.
Preventing the return of the moss is
the next step. Abandon efforts to grow grass in real shady areas where patches
of moss thrive instead of the grass. Shift to groundcovers instead, which will
eventually overwhelm the moss.
If you feel you must have grass in a
shady spot which has historically produced more moss than turf, you will have
a lot of work to do. First, aerate the soil and topdress it wiith compost or
topsoil. Check the pH of the soil (a pH of about 6.5 is best for most grasses)
and add lime if necessary. Then overseed with a grass seed labeled for shade.
SYMPTOMS: Fairy ring appears as a dark
green band of turf that develops in a circle (from 10 to 20 cm up to 10 m) or
semicircle in moist turf; mushrooms may or may not be present. Frequently,
just behind the dark green band is an area of sparse, brown, dying grass
caused by lack of water penetration. A second ring of thin dying grass may
appear inside the circle. Weeds commonly invade infested areas. All grasses
are susceptible to fairy ring, which is caused by several species of
mushroom-forming fungi. In northern and central California, the predominant
fungus is Marasmius oreades. Lepiota spp. are predominant in southern
California.
Fairy ring develops most frequently in
soils high in undecomposed organic matter containing lignin. Thus, adding
woody plant materials, such as sawdust, wood chips, bark, and other
uncomposted material, favors fairy ring development.
CULTURAL CONTROL: Apply adequate
nitrogen. Aerate soil for better water penetration and water heavily in holes
for several days; soil wetting agents may improve water penetration. Dethatch
the turf because fairy ring often develops in soils with high levels of
thatch. In some situations, replace infested soil. If fairy ring symptoms
consist only of mushrooms and there is no zone of dark green grass, the
mushrooms can be raked off and disposed of. While this will not weaken or
control the fungus, it will improve the turf's appearance.
WHEN TO TREAT: Fairy ring can be
eliminated by removing the turf and root zone containing the white, cottony
mass, and by fumigating the soil. However fumigation is a dangerous and
expensive process that should be done only by a licensed specialist.
What
do I look for if I suspect insects are invading my yard?
Be aware of where, why and when insects appear….look for discoloration
of turf grass then investigate further. Turf that can be pulled up easily is
usually a good clue that some insects have been chewing on the grass roots.
Certain times of the year, insects will be more numerous and therefore a
watchful eye to take appropriate measures right away will do a lot to prevent
an all-out attack.
If
I find insects in my lawn, what can I do to get rid of them?
The key to effective control of a pest insect is correctly identify it. This
will help you determine the appropriate measures to take to control or
eliminate it.
Are
there certain times of the year when I should be on the lookout for various
lawn insects?
Yes, you need to be aware of insect feeding cycles. For example, early
detection of sod webworms is essential for successful control since the damage
is already done by the time it becomes evident when you find small one to two
inch spots becoming large dead patches. Keep a lookout for the buff-colored
moths starting in mid-spring. If you see them, expect a caterpillar problem in
a few weeks.
Traps
Pheromone traps contain odorous substances emitted by insects for the
purpose of communicating with others of the same species. Trapping may be done
to either monitor or control insect populations. Pheromone-baited traps are on
the market for many pests. For example, Japanese beetle traps use scented
lures to attract beetles to a hanging bag into which they fall and can't get
out. They are very effective, so much so that they will encourage beetles to
visit your yard and can attract beetles from as far away as a quarter of a
mile.
Hand-picking Easy when you know what you're looking for and can detect an insect
problem early. Get to know the signs of insect damage and the lifecycle of the
lawn pests in your area to have an idea of when you need to be on the lookout.
For example, if you see a patch of lawn turning brown, check to see if the sod
pulls away easily and check for root feeding insect grubs.
Spiking Tools When white grubs migrate toward the soil's surface they are vulnerable to
some king of spiking tool. This is usually in late spring as they prepare to
turn into beetles and again in August and September as they just hatch from
eggs. Sharp spikes that penetrate at least two inches into the soil impale and
kill grubs. Special shoes with spikes attached to the bottom are now
available. A hand-spiking tool also will do a good job.
Diatomaceous Earth Ground fossilized shells into a fine, talc-like powers that can be handled
safely without gloves and can kill insects on contact. It is not a poison, but
works mechanically by piercing an insects exoskeleton dehydrating and killing
it when comes into contact. To kill grubs, cutworms and other larval lawn
pests, dust four times a year, using 25 pounds per 1500 square feet. Ladybugs,
praying mantises, honeybees and the larvae of parasitic wasps are vulnerable.
Milky Spore
The most widely known means of safe control for the Japanese beetle is
milky spore disease (Bacillus popilliae) which is a bacteria that kills white
grubs. It can also be effective in controlling armyworms. When spread on the
lawn, the bacteria enter the soil and come in contact with the white grubs
that are lying just below the surface. They infect them and then multiply
inside the grubs, creating millions more bacteria that spread through the soil
and attack other white grubs. It takes three to five years to achieve maximum
control of succeeding generations of grubs, but the control then lasts two or
three decades. During this time the bacteria go dormant when the grub
population is eliminated and wait for another infestation to occur. Spread
this dry powder on newly mown grass and water it in with a hose. Only one
treatment is necessary and this can be done anytime, except when the ground is
frozen. Use approximately 20 ounces of spore dust for every 5,000 square feet
of lawn. Read the product label carefully and follow instructions. It does not
harm any other insects or animals and is the best long term, effective
protection against grubs. Milky spore can be applied anytime the ground is not
frozen.
Predatory nematodes Unlike the harmful root knot nematodes which attack plants, beneficial or
predatory nematodes only attack pest insects in the soil. These naturally
occurring organisms will control a large number of grubs and larvae of pest
insects and eggs of beetles and weevils. Commercially packaged predatory
nematodes are used as a biological insecticide. The product consists of
millions of microscopic, non-segmented eel-like worms one-tenth to one
hundred-twenty-fifth of an inch in length suspended in a powder and is
available by mail order under several brand names. When mixed with water and
then sprayed on the affected plants, the active worms seek out and destroy the
largest pest insects. For best results, be sure the soil is moist and its
temperature is above 70 degrees. Predatory nematodes are effective through the
growing season but will not winter over in enough numbers to continue to be
helpful the next year. Allow a week between application of fertilizers or
other chemicals and do not apply diatomaceous earth on the same site as
nematodes as it will harm them. After about two weeks, lift up a piece of turf
carefully to check the status of the grubs. Pest controlled: armyworms,
Asiatic garden beetle larvae, billbug larvae, Japanese beetle larvae, June
beetle larvae, Leatherjackets/crane flies, Oriental beetle larvae, sod
webworms, white grubs, wireworms
Bt (Bacillus
thuringiensis) Today Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is the most widely used biological
control agent in the world. It is a naturally occurring bacteria that produce
a toxic material inside the spore. After an insect eats the spores, the toxin
paralyzes the gut and causes the insect to stop eating. The spores germinate
and multiply in the insect's blood causing acute blood poisoning.. The insect
will die from starvation, poisoning and bacteria infection. Bt is not toxic to
humans and other mammals. It targets a specific group of insects, mainly
caterpillars including sod webworms and cutworms as well as armyworms and
leafrollers. Bt does not stay in the environment very long, so reapplication
is usually necessary. Bt is sold as a dry powder for use as a dust, or diluted
with water for use as a spray which is the most effective for lawns. Common
trade names are: Caterpillar Killer, Dipel, Thuricide and Worm Attack. To
apply, mow the lawn before spraying and mix a surfactant in the sprayer with
the Bt to help it stick to the grass as well as penetrate any thatch that
exists. Spray Bt on the grass two weeks after seeing the sod webworm moth in
your yard and as soon as you spot cutworms. Spray in the later afternoon or on
cloudy days since Bt breaks down in sunlight. Hard, alkaline water will reduce
its effectiveness so use water with a pH of 7.0 or lower. The mixture is only
viable for about 12 hours. Dispose of leftover spray by pouring it into the
soil. You can store the liquid concentrate or the powered form of Bt for at
least two years if put in a dark room no cooler than 35 degrees or warmer than
90 degrees. Bt is most effective in the spring and again in the late summer.
Natural Predators Another way to control insect populations is to attract birds to your
yard. Plant trees to encourage nesting or provide bird houses and shrubs that
produce berries, such as Honeysuckle. Birds are also attracted by bird baths
and feeders. When chinch bugs have severely infested a lawn, a natural
predator called the bigeyed bug may move in and feed on the adults. The
bigeyed bug also preys on insect eggs, spider mites, and leafhoppers.
Eliminate stress
Environmental stress may trigger pest infestation no matter how healthy
your lawn is. Your lawn has a better chance against insect infestation if you
eliminate stress by using healthy lawn practices such as proper mowing,
watering, fertilizing as well as removing excessive thatch. Well-fed lawns
will discourage insects such as chinch bugs. Since beetles prefer to lay their
eggs in short grass, mow your lawn at a height of two to three inches. Beetles
seem to flourish on poorly nourished grass and plants. The odor or prematurely
ripening or diseased fruit often attracts them, so remove fallen fruit from
the lawn area.
Eliminate thatch Long term prevention of attacks from insects such as sod webworms,
billbugs and chinch bugs can be warded off by eliminating excessive thatch
where they live. Remove thatch by raking and prevent thatch buildup by using a
topdressing of organic material on a yearly basis to provide the microbes that
naturally feed on thatch. Since sod webworms prefer turf that is dry and warm,
water in the late morning and cut grass no shorter than 2 inches to keep the
lawn cool. Topdress it with a one-fourth inch layer organic material such a
peat moss, composted municipal sludge or sifted compost each year to control
the buildup of thatch.
Eliminate compacted soil Check your soil for signs of compaction and a deficiency in organic
matter. Aerate soil to eliminate compaction and reduce thatch. Correct these
conditions for long-term control of ants.
Insecticidal Soap
Insecticidal soap is made from potassium salts of fatty acids which causes
dehydration and death within hours of contact. To control pest insects such as
chinch bugs, sod webworms and billbugs, soak the whole area of affected turf
and its thatch thoroughly with a mixture of 2 tablespoons of insecticidal soap
concentrate into one gallon of water. Then, after about ten minutes, rake up
the thatch, insects and all and discard it in the trash. You can add pyrethrum
to make more effective against hard-bodied insects like beetles.
Horticultural Oils A light type of 2% horticultural oil (also known as superior oil) should
be sprayed directly on insect larvae. It must make direct contact as the oil
suffocates the insects. It has a low toxicity to man, pets and wildlife due to
lack of residual life on vegetation.
Rotenone This plant-derived insecticide has proven to be harmless to warm-blooded
animals, although it will kill beneficial insects and fish. It kills many
types of insects, however, the period of protection it offers is short, just
three to seven days. Filter wettable powders through cheesecloth before adding
to a sprayer.
Sabadilla Seeds of the sabadilla plant are ground into a powerful insecticidal dust.
It is effective against many insect pests including armyworm, webworm and
chinch bug. The insecticidal effect is diminished soon after application.
Sabadilla dust and seed can irritate mucous membranes and bring on sneezing
fits. Honeybees are vulnerable to Sabadilla.
Pyrethrum Pyrethrum is a well-known insecticide made from the pyrethrum flower,
which is a member of the chrysanthemum family. Insects such as caterpillars,
beetles and moths are paralyzed by pyrethrum and it is the most potent when
applied as a spray. While relatively nontoxic to bees, use as a last resort
since it can temporary setback beneficial insects . It will rapidly break down
into harmless substances in the environment. To make your own pyrethrum spray,
just grind up a few flower heads of Chrysanthemum cineraiifolium and mix with
water. A little soap can be added to improve the consistency.
Carbaryl
(Sevin) Use carbaryl(Sevin) as a last resort if you need more power instead of a
general purpose, broad spectrum insecticide since it can take two to four
months for a population of beneficial insects to regenerate after being
sprayed with more powerful insecticides.
Grubs
Symptoms show up as irregular brown patches of grass and the sod lifts up
easily in these spots.. Grubs are plump, whitish worms with brown heads, about
an inch long at maturity and rest in a C-shape curl just under the surface of
turf soil and feed on grass roots. You may also notice the increased activity
by birds such as blackbirds or starlings as they feed on them, or animals such
as moles, skunks or raccoons digging up the turf in search of them as a meal.
Grubs do the most damage in late spring or early fall. To determine if you do
have grubs, peel up a portion of damaged sod and check for grubs in the soil
just beneath it. In a small area where just a few are found, you can hand-pick
them. However, if you find 10 to 15 per square foot you may want to use other
methods such as a spiking tool, diatomaceous earth, predatory nematodes. For
long-term control, use Bacillus popilliae (Milky Spore).
Sod Webworms Sod webworms feed on grass blades at night by cutting the blade off just
above the thatch line and build silk-lined tunnels in the thatch near the soil
surface. To determine if a webworm population is large enough to require
control, in the early summer mark off two sections of lawn measuring 2 feet by
2 feet. Locate one in a damaged area and one in an undamaged area. Then mix 2
tablespoons of liquid household detergent into one gallon of water and using a
sprinkling can, saturate each lawn area evenly. Sections with thick thatch may
require several gallons of soapy water. Because the soap irritates webworms,
they'll come to the surface within five to ten minutes. If no webworms appear,
lawn damage is probably due to disease or some other insect. If you count more
than ten webworms per square foot of healthy turf, control with Insecticidal
soap drench, Bt, predatory nematodes.
European Crane Fly European Crane Fly, also known as Leatherjackets, have become established
in western Canada and the northwestern U.S. Many of these insects can live in
the soil without seriously damaging lawns. Birds will feed on them and no
other control is required. Even highly infested lawns have shown recovery
without the use of insecticides.
Billbugs Feast on stems and grass blades. To confirm that they are in the lawn, cut
the bottom from a can and push it a few inches into the soil where the grass
is beginning to turn brown. Fill the can with warm water mixed with liquid
detergent (about 2 tablespoons per gallon) and they will appear on the thatch
surface within a few minutes. As few as one adult or ten larvae per square
foot of lawn requires some control measures. Remove thatch layer, use
insecticidal soap or a broad-spectrum insecticide.
Chinch Bugs Chinch bugs have an offensive odor, especially when crushed, and a
severely infested lawn has an odor that can be detected by walking across it.
To test for chinch bugs, first select a sunny spot along the border of a
yellowed area of lawn. Cut out both ends of a large tin can, push one end into
the soil about two inches, then fill with warm water. If your lawn is in good
condition, ten to 15 chinch bugs per square foot probably will not cause a
problem and will be kept in check by natural predators. If the lawn is
stressed by compacted soil, drought or heavy thatch, even a few chinch bugs
will do damage. To control, remove thatch layer, use insecticidal soap, or as
a last resort, use a broad-spectrum insecticide. These insects prefer hot,
sunny locations and you can discourage them by shading the lawn with trees or
shrubs.
Cutworms Cutworms chew grass blades near the surface of the soil as well as grass
roots at night. You will begin to see damage when you have more than five
cutworms per square foot. To determine if you have cutworms, drench an area of
the lawn where you suspect cutworm activity with water mixed with insecticidal
soap early on a spring evening. Return after dark to see if there are cutworms
on the surface of the turf. Control by flooding the lawn with water until they
are puddled. This treatment, which is only practical on a small scale, brings
the cutworms to the surface to that they can be hand-picked and destroyed.
Other control includes beneficial nematodes or Bt
Armyworms Feeds chiefly at night and during cloudy days. Predators, such as birds,
skunks, and toads as well as parasites usually keep the armyworm in control.
You can purchase a beneficial nematode parasite, such as Neoaplecana
carpocapsae, or Bacillus popilliae (Milky Spore) for long-term control.
Ants Many people find ant hills unsightly, especially in lawn where the grass
is kept short. Actually, these natural aerators are beneficial to your lawn,
so if you allow your grass to grow a little longer, the ant hills will be
hidden.
One method for controlling ant colonies in the lawn is to pour boiling water
onto the anthill. It may take two or three drenchings over a few days to wipe
them out. There is also a product called Insectigone by Chemfre containing
diatomaceous earth and specially formulated baits that attract ants. Sprinkle
the white powder on and around the anthills according to instructions on the
package label. Then the ants come in contact with the powder, or eat the bait,
they literally dry up. Most die within 48 hours.
Wireworms Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles, or skipjacks, and often
confused with millipedes. They are usually found in heavy loam soils that
retain moisture. Potatoes are attractive to wireworms and can be used as a
simple trap. Cut a potato in half, cut out the eyes to prevent it from
growing, and run a stick through the middle. Bury the spud about one inch
under so that the stick stands vertically as a handle, and pull the traps out
after a day or two. Some potatoes have yielded as many as 15 to 20 pests.
How can I identify what kind of insect is
attacking my lawn?
If the turf looks wilted and water-starved, a root-feeding insect may be
involved. Peel the sod back, examine the roots and look for root-feeding
pests.
Insects that feed on grass blades often
hide in the thatch. Damage from this type of feeding appears as brown
patches. Then there's the sap suckers who live on grass blades. Close
examination of the blade should reveal this type of pest.
Before applying any chemical, always read and follow the product label
directions. In general, granular pesticides are applied with a fertilizer
spreader. These pesticides are usually activated by moisture, so in most
cases, make sure the lawn is wet prior to pesticide application.
If you're going after root-feeding
insects, you'll probably need to water your lawn immediately after chemical
application. This helps carry the pesticide off the foliage and into the
soil where the insects feed.
Again, before using the chemical, read and follow the product's
directions. You'll want to water the lawn well prior to application because
drought-stressed grasses can be damaged by these chemicals. I use a hose-
end sprayer to apply the products. Remember to wait 48 hours before watering
or mowing your yard again. This lets the pesticide remain on the plants as
long as possible, maximizing its effectiveness.
Billbugs are a double threat: as a grub, they'll eat your lawn's roots; as
an adult, they'll attack its blades and stems. If left unchecked, these
pests can destroy your entire lawn.
A billbug-infested lawn has irregularly
shaped discolored patches which rapidly yellow and finally turn brown. Grass
stems within the dead areas will easily lift out and a whitish, sawdust-like
material can be found on the ground.
The larvae are easy to identify: check
your soil for fat, humpbacked, legless white grubs with brown heads. You may
see the black, slow-moving, snouted adults in early spring walking along
your sidewalk or driveway.
Control hints: I use an insecticide with
either diazinon, chlorpyrifos or isofenphos to control billbugs. For best
results, treat young larvae still feeding on the grass blades. But, if
they've already moved to the roots, then water and fertilizer the lawn to
stimulate new growth. Repeated treatments aren't usually necessary unless
the billbugs are migrating from your neighbors' yards.
Small damaged areas usually recover if
the larvae are killed, but you'll have to re-seed large areas. Next year,
I'd treat the lawn in early May to kill the adults as they lay eggs.
These include the larvae of a whole roster of beetles that can literally
eat their way through an entire lawn! While the adults won't harm your yard,
their larvae feed on grass roots.
You'll notice grub damage in August and
September, when grass turns brown in large irregular patches. Brown areas of
grass roll up easily, like a carpet. Underneath you'll find silky white
grubs with brown heads and three pairs of legs, curled in the soil.
Control hints: There's no two ways around
it: the younger the grubs are, the easier they are to kill. To stop this
pest, I suggest using an insecticide containing diazinon, isofenphos or
chlorpyrifos when you first the grubs. Repeated heavy watering is needed
immediately after application to carry the insecticide down to where the
grubs feed.
Mole crickets are burrowing relatives of the chirping above ground
insect. And they'll eat everything: grass roots, stems, blades, other bugs -
even earthworms! Typically, infested lawns feel spongy underfoot and you'll
notice small mounds of soil scattered at the surface. Over time, large areas
of your grass will turn brown and die. The dead grass pulls up easily, and
you can usually find the crickets' tunnels with your fingers.
There's an easy test verify if mole
crickets are to blame for your lawn problems: drench four square feet of
turf with a solution of 1 ounce liquid detergent in 2 gallons of water. If
these bugs are present, you'll see greenish-gray or brown insects with short
front legs and shovel-like feet quickly come to surface.
In general, mole crickets prefer
bahiagrass and Bermudagrass, but they'll also feed on St. Augustine, zoysia
and centipedegrass. The bugs fed at night and may tunnel as far as 10-to-20
feet before the sun rises. In the daytime, they return to their underground
burrows.
Control hints: I've found that a June or
July application with chlorpyrifos, acephate or diazinon works best. You'll
need to treat after the eggs hatch and before the young nymphs cause much
damage. Be sure to mow and water your lawn before applying the pesticide.
But don't water for 36 hours after application. If damage continues, treat
again in late summer or early fall.
Nematodes are microscopic worms that live in the soil and feed on your
lawn's roots. Tell-tale signs of a nematode problem include a slowly
thinning lawn that turns pale green or yellow. Grass roots will be stubby
and shallow and your lawn won't respond to treatments such as aerating,
fertilizing or watering.
The only way to confirm this pest's
presence: testing grass roots and soil. Contact your local cooperative
extension office for sampling instructions. But before you go to this
expense, be sure to eliminate other soil and root problems such as drought
stress, nutrient deficiency or root rot.
Control hints: Chemicals to kill
nematodes in planted soil are not available to home owners, so you'll need
to contact a pest control specialist to stop the pests.
Note: If the controller
manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at .
We would be more than happy to try to locate the manual for you. Remember,
this page is updated often, so check back!
Click on controller picture to view operating manual
Designed primarily for
residential applications, these easy-to-use hybrid controllers
provide a variety of flexible, at-a-glance programming options and
reliable performance at an economical price.
Designed for commercial, light
commercial and residential use, this innovative hybrid controller
offers maximum programming flexibility to handle a wide variety of
sophisticated watering requirements in an easy-to-use format.
Plus, its modular design ensures convenient remote programming and
hassle-free station additions and upgrades.
Designed for commercial, light
commercial and residential use, this innovative hybrid controller
offers maximum programming flexibility to handle a wide variety of
sophisticated watering requirements in an easy-to-use format.
Plus, its modular design ensures convenient remote programming and
hassle-free station additions and upgrades.
This proven hybrid controller from
Irritrol Systems, designed primarily for commercial and light
commercial applications, offers the choice of stations and
scheduling flexibility required to handle complex applications.
This proven hybrid controller from
Irritrol Systems, designed primarily for commercial and light
commercial applications, offers the choice of stations and
scheduling flexibility required to handle complex applications.
Irritrol Valve Installation and
Operation Manuals
Note: If the Valve Installation and
Operation manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
We would be more than happy to try to locate the manual for you. Remember,
this page is updated often, so check back!
Designed primarily for residential use, these durable electric globe
and angle valves offer solid construction, reliable performance and
convenient operation to accommodate the specific needs of homeowners.
Designed primarily for residential use, these durable electric
globe and angle valves offer solid construction, reliable
performance and convenient operation.
Irritrol Systems popular 205 Series electric globe valves offer
debris-tolerant operation and a high-flow, low-friction-loss design
for optimum performance in potable and dirty water applications.
These long-lasting manual anti-siphon valves, designed primarily for
residential use, offer simple operation and trouble-free performance
in an operating range of up to 150 psi.
Rotor Sprinkler
Installation
and Adjustment Manuals
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installation or adjustment manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at .
We would be more than happy to try to locate the manual for you. Remember,
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Water-lubricated, gear-driven design provides dependable, steady
operation. The popular Turbo family of gear drives are designed for
the most demanding applications.
Weathermatic
Valve Installation and
Operation Manuals
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Operation manual you are seeking is not listed on this page, please contact us at
.
We would be more than happy to try to locate the manual for you. Remember,
this page is updated often, so check back!
Fail safe "reverse flow" design insures that the valve
will remain closed in the event of a diaphragm wall failure and
extends diaphragm life. Excellent for micro-irrigation, valve will
operate as low as 1 GPH.
Dual flexing diaphragm ports provide great contamination
resistance in dirty water or reclaimed applications, Fail safe
"reverse flow" design insures that the valve will remain
closed in the event of wall failure.
You'll begin the actual installation of your sprinkler system by running pipe
to match the layout you sketched earlier. A few helpful hints will make
positioning and joining pipe as easy as possible.
Tips
For PVC Pipe
Cut pipe with a hacksaw or PVC pipe cutter and file off burrs. Use primer to
clean area that will be cemented. Wait a few minutes for the primer to dry.
Brush solvent cement freely around the outside end of the pipe and to inside of
the fitting. Slip the pipe into the fitting, then twist it a quarter turn to
evenly distribute the solvent for a leak-proof bond. Hold for about 15 seconds
until pipe is set, then wipe excess solvent from around the joint.
Tips
For Poly Pipe
As mentioned before, poly pipe should only be used between valves and
sprinkler heads since it can't withstand the surge pressure between your service
lines and valves. Cut poly pipe with a knife or a hacksaw. Slip a stainless
steel hose clamp over the pipe and insert the fitting. Then position the clamp
over the area of pipe surrounding the ridged part of the fitting, and tighten
carefully.
Make sure all clamps are tightened snugly on poly pipe.
Tap Into Your Service Line
Turn off your main water supply at the water meter. Cut into the service line
as close as possible to where you'll position your control valves, and remove
about 3" of the service line pipe. Insert a compression tee as shown then
tighten the nuts to seal against leaking.
Installing
a Shut-Off Valve
Finally, install a shut-off gate or ball valve so you can turn off your
entire sprinkler system of necessary. Run a pipe from the compression tee to the
shut-off valve, then lay another length of pipe from the shut-off valve to the
location of your control valves.
A Shut-off valve lets you turn off water to your
sprinkler system without affecting your household water supply.
If the Meter Is In The Basement
Shut off your water supply at the meter and insert a compression tee as
described previously. Drill a 1" hole through the sill above the
foundation, or drill or chisel a hole through the basement wall. Install the
pipe as shown, including
the shut-off valve and drain cap. In freezing areas, pipe should slope downward
from the control valves to the basement entrance, and a drain cap should be
installed in a low position. Seal the hole in your wall with caulking compound.
Drain water from your system by closing the shut-off valve and removing the
drain cap, using a bucket to catch the flow.
In Freezing Areas
If freezing temperatures occur in your area, install automatic
drain valves at the low points in the pipe run from each control valve, and
between the control-valve manifold and the shut-off valve. Use a reducer tee,
and slope the automatic drain valve downward at a 45° angle into a bed of
gravel to provide drainage. When your sprinkler system shuts off, the automatic
drain valve opens to release any water standing in the pipes.
Laying Out Your system
Use wooden stakes to mark
the location of each sprinkler head and control valve. Then connect the
stakes with string to represent the path of your piping. Check the layout you
sketched to make sure you've positioned everything accurately before you begin
cutting pipe.
Digging Trenches By Hand
To soften your soil, water the ground about two days before you plan to
trench your yard. Use a straight-edge spade to dig "V" shaped 6"
deep trenches (up to 10" in freezing climates). Place sod on one side of
the trench and dirt on the other, so you can put everything back the way it was.
Using a trencher
Renting an automatic trencher can make your job easier. Check your local
lawn-supply store or equipment-rental company. The renter can show you how to
safely operate the machine. Don't use it to dig trenches through flower beds or
ground cover, or operate it near buildings or on steep slopes.
Before using a trencher, make sure to check with your
local gas and electric companies to be certain that there are no buried lines
where you'll be digging.
Going
Under Obstacles
Attach your hose to a length of pipe with a hose-pipe adapter. Place the end
of the pipe where you want it to tunnel, for example under a concrete sidewalk,
then turn on the water. Push the pipe under the obstacle as the water pressure
cuts a channel. Be careful to avoid damaging walls and driveways by washing away
too much soil.
Connecting Valves
Lay the Main Line
If you haven't already done so, cut a length of pipe to run from the shut-off
valve to the location of your first set of control valves. If you're planning a
second set of control valves in another direction, link them to the first set
with another length of pipe.
Place Your Control Valves
In front of the control
valve positions you staked out earlier, lay out the valves, risers (vertical
pipe segments) and tees on the ground the way that they will fit together as a
manifold. To prevent backflow, make sure anti-siphon valves are at least 6"
above the highest sprinkler head (or higher if required by local codes). Space
valves at least 5" apart for easy assembly and maintenance.
Set Up Valve Manifold
Apply solvent to each joint and fit together as shown in the illustration
above. Follow the solvent manufacturer's suggested drying time (typically about
1 hour), then turn off all control valves according to the instructions packaged
with them. Now turn on the valve at your water meter.
Making an In-Line Manifold
If your water supply or local codes require the use of in-line
valves, several steps can enhance the durability of your installation. Bury
the manifold in the ground above a bed of gravel for better drainage. And for
easy access surround the valves with wood (preferably redwood for longevity), or
install them in a valve box available from your local retailer. Be sure to
install a separate constant pressure backflow device if running your system off
your household water supply.
Never Install Any Valve Downstream
of an Anti-Siphon Valve
One final note: if you're using anti siphon valves, make sure that no other
valve (manual or electric) is installed between them and your sprinkler heads.
This would prevent the built-in backflow prevention from working.
Attaching Sprinkler Heads
Place
the Heads
Now match the various kinds of sprinkler heads you've purchased with the
locations you've staked out according to your sketch.
Trenches from the appropriate control valve should be
deep enough so that each head will be at the proper height.
Cut The Risers
Match each head to a riser, and check that sprinklers reach the right height
when pipe is in the trench. (See
"Install the heads"). Cut risers if necessary.
Insert The Risers
Put a tee in the pipe at each sprinkler head location; using a right-angle
elbow for the head at the end of each pipe. Screw the risers
into the tee or elbow at each sprinkler head location, but leave heads off.
Flush the System
Use pipe plugs to seal all risers except the one at the end of each pipe.
Turn on the water at the shut-off valve, and open the control valves one at a
time using manual bleed screws until water runs clear of all debris. Check the
entire system for leaks. Then close the control valves, and remove all pipe
plugs.
Install the
Heads
Different kinds of heads are installed in different ways. The following tips
will help ensure durability and proper water distribution. For accurate watering
patterns, make sure all sprinklers are vertical. For extra protection against
leads, wrap riser heads with Teflon® tape before installing heads
Pop-Ups and Rotors
The tops of pop-up
sprinkler heads and rotors should be slightly above the soil surface. Any
higher, and they're subject to damage when mowing or engaging in yard
activities.
Shrub Heads and Bubblers
Shrub heads and bubblers should be mounted on risers that lift them
several inches above the soil surface. This allows their patterns to reach the
maximum radius.
Fine Tune Your Pattern
Adjust pop-up sprinkler heads so their patterns water precisely the areas you
want. Adjust Lawn Genie pop-up spray heads by pulling up the pop-up stem and
turning it to the precise direction desired. The pop-up stem
"ratchets" to allow easy, reliable adjustment of the spray direction.
Installing Your Timer
Mount
The Timer
Choose an indoor location near a standard 120-volt electrical outlet.
Following the instructions in the timer installation manual, fasten the unit to
the wall using the screws provided, and attach the transformer.
Wire The Control Valves
Run valve wiring underground wherever possible. For line runs less than 800
feet long, use 18-gauge, plastic jacketed thermostat control wire; over 800
feet, use 14-gauge wire. Your dealer can provide this wire in 2,3,4,5,6,7 and 8
wire color-coded strands. Connect a single common color wire to one of the wires
from each valve. Solder or join all splices with wire nuts, then seal with vinyl
or waterproof cement to assure a water resistant connection.
Connect the Valves to Your timer
Connect the wire from valve number 1 to the terminal screw marked
"1" on the timer, the wire from valve number 2 to the terminal
"2", and so on. This allows your timer to selectively water the Zone
controlled by each valve. Connect the common wire to the terminal marked "COMM".
If using a water pump or master valve, refer to page 18 for installation
details.
Program Your timer
Now consult the owner's manual that came with your
timer. Different timers use different programming techniques. But no matter
which timer you choose, it helps to write down your zones and their watering
days in the form of a schedule before you start.
Check System Operation
Now you're ready to test your installation. Open the
shut-off valve all the way and test each Zone using your timer's manual control.
Adjust the radius and pattern direction of pop-ups to avoid wasting water on
walks, driveways and other areas. Also adjust shrub heads and bubblers. See
Troubleshooting section on page 19 if one or more valves fails to operate. When
system is functioning properly, replace soil and sod in trenches
Information found here was supplied by Lawn Genie.
Double check to ensure you have secured all permits In
addition, have the local utilities mark all the buried lines and
pipes before you start digging.
Use flags to indicate sprinkler locations according to your
design Also, mark the location of your drip system risers Even
if you plan to install the actual drip system at a later date, you
can install your drip risers with the rest of your system
Use line-marking spray paint to mark where you’ll trench for
pipes and wiring Check your worksheet to make sure you mark
the lines accurately You will be digging your trenches along
these lines
By cutting into your service line and slipping on a compression
tee, you can connect your sprinkler system to the water
supply without soldering In some instances, you can avoid
cutting the main line by attaching your system to the outside
faucet connection (see diagram and note) PVC pipe may be
substituted for copper in non-freezing areas.
SHUT-OFF VALVES
Whether a PVB is used or not, we recommend installing a
shut-off valve between the zone valves and the service line
This will allow you to easily turn off the water to your irrigation
system if you need to make repairs or replace parts Check local
codes for the type of shut-off valve recommended.
IF THE METER IS IN YOUR YARD:
Shut off your water supply at the meter
(check with your water department first).
Dig to expose the service line.
Tie into the service line, between
the water meter and the house.
Remove a section of pipe, leaving a gap
large enough to slide on a compression tee.
Slip the tee over each end of the pipe.
Tighten the compression nuts. The rubber gasket will
compress against the pipe, creating a seal to prevent leakage.
Install a short nipple, using PTFE tape
on all threaded connections to the tee.
Attach a shut-off valve, in a small enclosure,
to this section of pipe. The shut-off valve allows
you to turn off the system by hand, if necessary.
keep this connection as clean as possible.
This is your tap water supply.
IF THE METER IS IN YOUR BASEMENT:
Shut off your water supply at the meter
(check with your water utility).
Install an appropriate tee into the service
line for the irrigation connection.
Drill a hole through the sill above the foundation, or chisel
a hole in the basement wall for the irrigation line to run
through. Make it no bigger than needed for a 1” pipe.
Install the connection fittings, as shown. A ball valve is a
good choice for the irrigation shut-off. For the drain valve,
use a gate-type valve. The drain valve should be as low as
possible to allow complete system drainage.
Feed your irrigation system pipe out through the basement
wall, and run it to the backflow preventer location (see page
12 for more information on backflow prevention).
Finally, seal the hole in the sill or foundation
with caulking compound.
The main irrigation line is the pipe that runs from your service
line to your valve manifolds The lateral lines are the lines that
run from the valve manifolds to the sprinkler heads
TRENCHING BY HAND
To soften the soil, water the ground approximately two days
before you dig Dig trenches 8” to 12” inches deep Put sod on
one side of the trench and soil on the other.
WARNING! Before digging any trenches, you must have
all underground utilities marked to avoid any damage. Call your local
underground locator service or the city for information.
TRENCHING USING A TRENCHER
Trenching machines are an easier, faster alternative to digging
with a shovel They can be rented by the hour, day or week,
usually from a lawn supply store or rental equipment dealer
The person you rent from can show you how to operate the
machine properly and safely Trenchers should not be used
to dig through ground cover, flower beds, on steep slopes or
near buildings Be sure to verify all underground utilities before
trenching
In colder
climates a
vibratory plow
is used for
pulling pipe.
Start from the valves and move outward, laying the connecting
pipe along the bottom of the trench. At each flag, install a tee
or elbow fitting, and if needed, a riser for sprinkler attachment.
After the pipe has been connected and the glue has dried (PVC
pipe only), turn on the water, open valves one zone at a time
and flush until the water runs clear. Seal the fitting with duct
tape to keep dirt out until the sprinklers are installed.
NOTE: Don't backfill your trenches until your final system operation check is complete.
Install one sprinkler zone at a time, using swing pipe
to connect to the lateral lines. Remember to refer to your
planning worksheet.
Placing a sprinkler in a trench as a guide, measure from the
connecting pipe fitting to the bottom of the sprinkler and
cut a length of Funny Pipe to fit. Place sprinklers at least 3”
from sidewalks and curbs and 6” from fences and buildings.
Install the appropriate Funny Pipe elbow into the
sprinkler and into the PVC or poly pipe fitting.
No glue or clamps needed.
Connect the Funny Pipe to the sprinkler
and to the pipe fitting.
Note: Do not use more than 4’ of swing pipe with each sprinkler head.
Position the sprinkler in the trench so that the top of the
sprinkler is flush with ground level. Stabilize the sprinkler
with soil without filling the entire trench.
Verify that the sprinkler is vertical for optimum performance.
Repeat this process for each sprinkler.
Install the timer in your garage or another convenient
place. If an outdoor location is desired, use an outdoor
cabinet to protect the timer against the effects of weather.
Make sure an adequate power supply is available. (See instructions
included with the timer for details.)
If you haven’t already done so, lay the valve wires
in the bottom of the trenches, beneath the pipes.
Tip: Installing more wire strands than your system currently
requires can be a real time saver. Adding them now is simple,
adding them later after all the dirt is back in place and the grass
is growing is not.
Connect the valves to the timer using the valve wires.
Take one wire from each valve and connect them to a
common wire. (For ease of identification, use the white
wire as the common.)
At the timer, connect the common wire to the
common terminal on the timer.
Take the other wire from each valve and connect
them to the timer terminals in sequence.
Slowly turn on the water, then
manually open an irrigation valve.
Adjust the sprinklers to ensure proper coverage.
(See sprinkler installation instructions for details.)
If you don’t have complete head-to-head coverage,
follow the steps below:
Make sure the control valve and
shut-off valve are fully open.
Turn off any water being used in the house
(washers, showers, faucets, etc.).
Fine-tune sprinkler spray positions and spray
patterns to match your coverage area.
If coverage is still not complete, go back and
check your system layout against the plans.
When you see that the coverage is satisfactory,
fill in the trench.
Once you are satisfied with your installation you
can move on to installing your drip irrigation system.
This sprinkler system installation has been brought to you by Rain Bird and Toro Manufacturers.
Technical
Data
Using
Adobe Acrobat Reader, you may view the files below by clicking on the
links.
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clicking on the logo
Why does my grass develop
yellow patches after I mow?
Improper mowing is probably the
culprit here. You're probably removing too much of the grass leaf at each
mowing.
Solution: Either mow more frequently
so you never remove more than one third of the leaf blade, or you need to
level out your yard's high spots because the mower is cutting too low as it
goes over bumps.
My grass blades are turning
yellow between the veins, but the veins themselves are remaining
green. Why?
You're looking a common lawn
problem: iron deficiency. Usually, you'll find this condition in soils with
high pH. That's because in acidic conditions, iron tends to form compounds
that plants can't use. If high pH isn't the problem, your iron deficiency
may be caused by excess phosphorus, a poor root system, over-watering or use
of a water that has high levels of bicarbonate salts.
Solution: Spray the lawn with a
liquid iron supplement. If acidic soil is the root of your problem, drop the
pH by adding ferrous sulfate or ferrous ammonium sulfate.
Why do grass patches turn
yellow and die shortly after fertilizing?
If the grass bordering these yellow
areas is a healthy green color and the yellow areas don't spread, fertilizer
burn is to blame. Whenever excessive amounts of these materials contact
grass, they cause the blades to dry out and die.
Solution: You can prevent burn by
picking up spilled fertilizer, applying fertilizer according to label
directions and thoroughly watering the grass after fertilizing to wash it
into the soil.
After the snow melted, pale
yellow patches trimmed in pink appeared in my lawn. What's the
problem?
You're probably looking at Fusarium
patch (pink snow mold). Generally a problem in late winter or early spring,
this grass disease usually attacks lawns wet from snow, rain or poor
drainage. Grass blades are usually light tan and stick together, and a white
cottony growth may cover the blades.
By the time you observe Fusarium
patch in the spring, it's usually too late to apply a fungicide. That's why
proper lawn management is so important.
Solution: To reduce the danger of
this disease, keep your yard mowed and aerated in the fall, and avoid excess
fall nitrogen applications. Frequent mowing can help control the problem
too.
Why are circular straw-brown
spots roughly 8-to-10 inches wide appearing in my lawn?
If you've had dogs in the area,
you're probably seeing dog urine injury.
Solution: To correct the problem,
water the affected areas thoroughly to wash away the urine. While this won't
completely eradicate the brown discoloration, surrounding grass will
eventually fill the affected spots. To prevent further problems, try to keep
dogs off the lawn. If canines can't be blamed, you may have dollar spot or
Fusarium blight.
My yard has large, circular
patches of brown grass. The leaves first appear water-soaked, but dry
and turn dark brown. What should I do?
If you live in a warm, humid area,
you may have brown patch. This fungus attacks lush, tender growth, so you'll
usually find it in yards with excessive nitrogen. Often only the blades are
affected and the grass will recover. However, severe infections can kill
your grass.
Solution: To stop brown patch,
you'll need a fungicide with chlorothalonil and at least three treatments
spaced seven-to-10 days apart. To prevent it, avoid heavy doses of nitrogen
fertilizer, keep your thatch under control and aerate your yard regularly. Back to top
Why does an orange dust fill
the air when I mow?
If your grass blades are covered in
an orange powder, and the reddish-brown lesions underneath don't rub off,
you've got rust. The fungi to blame are usually active during humid weather
(70°-to-75° F). Grasses under stress from nitrogen deficiencies, moisture
shortages or close mowing are most susceptible. Solution: Rust develops
slowly, so in many cases frequent mowing, adequate water and an application
of a high-nitrogen fertilizer can stop the problem. Frequent mowing can help
control the problem too. However, if the disease is severe, I'd treat affected
areas with a chlorothalonil fungicide.
If the tips of your blades are pale
yellow or gray, perhaps with red or yellow margins, and you see tiny black
dots, you can bet it's septoria leaf spot. Also known as tip burn, this
fungus can infect most northern grass species. The combination of cool, wet
weather and unfertilized lawns usually bring on the disease.
Solution: A fungicide with mancozeb
will control the problem, but you may need three or more treatments.
Frequent mowing can help control the problem too.
Why is my grass pale green
in color and growing more slowly than usual?
Odds are that a nitrogen deficiency
is to blame.
Solution: You'll need to apply a
lawn fertilizer to boost soil nitrogen levels. Fertilizer stimulate and
sustain strong healthy growth for a lush green lawn every time.
My lawn has turned a
bluish-green color and footprints make a lasting imprint. What's the
problem?
If the grass recovers during the
evening, but darkens and wilts under the daytime heat, your lawn is under
drought stress. You'll notice drought damage first along sidewalks and
driveways (the hottest and driest areas of the lawn).
Solution: Water your lawn
immediately. Back to top
Why does my grass look like
it's been dusted with flour?
Powdery mildew is probably to blame.
This fungus-caused disease makes white or gray mold appear on grass blades.
As the disease progresses, leaves turn yellow, wither and die. Slow (or
non-existent) air circulation, shade and high humidity contribute to the
problem. Solution: Chemical controls are available, but your best bet is
prevention. I suggest you plant shade-tolerant grass varieties, follow
nitrogen fertilization guidelines and selectively prune shrubs to increase
air circulation.
What grass variety requires
the least maintenance?
Look for a grass such as fescue that resists pests, diseases and
drought, grows slowly and demands little fertilizing. But keep in mind, even
fescue grass needs attention to stay healthy.
What is a cool season grass?
Cool-season grass varieties
are adapted for cold-winter areas. These grasses grow well in the northern
United States and other regions with warm summers and cold winters.
Cool-season grasses grow actively
during cool weather, but slow down in the summer heat. In snowy climes,
they'll go dormant during winter, but quickly green-up during spring.
Drought can cause them to go dormant, but with proper watering , cool-season
grasses will stay green throughout the growing season. (see
also Cool Season Grass)
What is a warm season grass?
Warm-season grasses
are best for areas where frost is a rare phenomenon. These grasses grow vigorously in the warm summer
months. But when the weather turns cooler, warm-season grasses go dormant,
turning yellow or brown. (See also Warm
Season Grass.) Back to top What is a seed blend?
A seed blend is a combination of two or
more cultivars (types) of the same species. Lawns established with a seed
blend are usually more tolerant of a broader soil range and environment than
those which consist of a single cultivar. In addition, blending generally
reduces the incidence of lawn diseases.
What's a seed mixture?
A seed mixture is made up of two or
more different turf grass species. The chief advantage of a mixture: each
species is better adapted to certain environmental conditions. If your
lawn
is plagued with shade, sandy soils or poorly drained soils,
I'd recommend a
turf grass mixture.
Kentucky bluegrass and its varieties
are premium lawn grasses, prized for their rich green color, fine texture
and dense growth. They are used across the northern half of the United
States and tolerate winter cold but need regular irrigation or rainfall
during the summer, generous fertilizing and cannot take extreme heat. Common
Kentucky bluegrass spreads by underground stems and has medium-textured,
upright, bright green foliage distinguished by boat-shaped tips. All
bluegrasses are subject to injury by root-eating grubs and are susceptible
to fungus diseases.
HOW TO GROW.
Kentucky bluegrasses
grow best in rich, loamy, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.8 and 7.5.
These grasses are drought resistant, becoming semi dormant in dry weather if
the soil temperature goes above 85-90 degrees. Full sun is needed in the
more northern areas; more shade can be tolerated farther south. Sow Kentucky
bluegrass seeds at the rate of 2 to 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet in fall
or early spring.
Fertilize in early spring, early
summer and early fall. Fall fertilization is the most important as this sets
up the lawn for the next spring green up. Roots will grow throughout the
winter if the ground remains unfrozen and will start growing in the spring
as soon as the ground unfreezes. Fertilize at an annual rate of 3 to 5
pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq feet. A slow release fertilizer is most
desirable.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in a bag, take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g. 16-4-8,
nitrogen - potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the
bag size. Example: a 25 lb bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16
= 4). If your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and
wish to put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet you would put down 15
pounds of nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then you
would need about 4 bags twice a year.
Mow regularly at a height of 2 to 2
1/2 inches or more to encourage deeper root growth. Remove only 1/3 of the
growth of the blade of grass at a time. Use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn to supply about
25% of the fertilizer needs of the lawn. A healthy growing lawn will not
develop thatch due to clippings as the clippings are 90% water and generally
decompose in 7-10 days.
Water (or rainfall) at a rate of 1
inch per week about every 3-4 days during the growing season. A little more
often if the temperature is very high. Water deeply to wet the top 3-5
inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light
watering (unless you are starting a new lawn) as this will promote shallow
root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions.
Tall fescue is a tough, coarse grass
mainly used on athletic fields and to prevent erosion on banks. It can
survive in even the toughest city conditions, including smog. It adapts to
dry growing conditions and poor soil, and needs little fertilizing. Red
fescue forms a fine-textured, sturdy lawn when mixed with bluegrass. Both
fescues grow well in cool-climate regions across the northern U.S. and in
mountain regions. Tall fescue grows in clumps and has relatively large
medium green leaves. Some kinds of red fescue form clumps but others spread
by creeping; all have dark green needle-like leaves that are hard to cut
smooth, and a sharp blade must be used. Disease seldom strikes tall fescue
but red fescue is subject to fungus. Both are moderately drought resistant.
HOW TO GROW. Fescues prosper in
moist as well as dry soil, even if it is infertile, so long as the pH is
between 5.3 and 7.5; they grow in shade as well as sun. Sow tall fescue
seeds in early fall, seeding heavily--at the rate of 4 to 8 pounds per 1,000
square feet--so that the plants will be crowded and the clumps less
conspicuous; sow red fescue seeds at the rate of 3 to 5 pounds per 1,000
square feet in early fall or early spring.
Fescues, if grown alone, require
fertilization only in late summer and early spring, but if you mix red
fescue and bluegrass, give them the three feedings recommended for bluegrass
-- early spring, early summer and early fall. Use a complete fertilizer at
an annual rate of 2 to 3 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq feet, half the
amount each time if you fertilize twice a year. A slow release fertilizer is
most desirable.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in the bag take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g. 16-4-8,
nitrogen - potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the
bag size. Example: a 25 lb bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16
= 4). If your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and
wish to put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet you would put down 15
pounds of nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then you
would need about 4 bags twice a year.
Mow regularly at height of 2 1/2 to
3 inches. Mow even taller if possible in the heat of the summer. Remove only
1/3 of the growth of the blade of grass at a time. Use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn to supply about 25% of the
fertilizer needs of the lawn. A healthy growing lawn will not develop thatch
due to clippings as the clippings are 90% water and generally decompose in
7-10 days.
Water (or rainfall) at a rate of one
inch per week about every 3-4 days during the growing season. A little more
often if the temperature is very high. Water deeply to wet the top 3-5
inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light
watering (unless you are starting a new lawn) as this will promote shallow
root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions.
Annual rye (also known as Italian
ryegrass) is a fast growing annual grass and is widely used in the South and
Southwest to "over seed" a lawn and keep it green during the winter
when warm-season grasses are brown. If annual rye is sown over the permanent
lawn in fall, it flourishes during the cool winter months and then is
crowded out when the permanent grasses begin to grow again in the spring.
Perennial rye, which usually lives
only four to five years, can be used to create a tough temporary turf in
cool climates and is widely planted across the northern United States. This
grass has the best ‘wear tolerance’ of any cool-season grass, making it
ideal for play areas. On the down side, this grass is intolerant to extreme
heat, cold and drought, so I’d only recommend it for coastal regions with
mild winters and cool, moist summers.
Neither rye lasts long enough for a
permanent lawn, but seed mixtures sometimes contain one or both mixed with
other grasses on the theory that the quick-growing ryes shelter
slower-growing permanent grasses while the lawn is establishing itself. It
often turns out, however, that ryes simply compete with the permanent
grasses for moisture and nutrients and undermine their strength. Ryes grow
in clumps and have rather coarse, shiny, bright green leaves on upright
stems.
HOW TO GROW. Rye grasses grow in any
soil with a pH between 5.5 and 8.0; they tolerate partial shade and salt
air. To over seed
a lawn for winter, sow annual rye at the rate of 4 to 5
pounds per 1,000 square feet a few weeks before the lawns in your area
generally begin to brown. If the grass comes up yellowish green, a sign of
nitrogen deficiency. Fertilize ryegrass using a complete fertilizer at rate
of 3 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in the bag take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g. 16-4-8,
nitrogen - potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the
bag size. Example: a 25 lb bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16
= 4). If your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and
wish to put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet you would put down 15
pounds of nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then you
would need about 4 bags twice a year.
Mow regularly at height of 2 to 3
inches. Remove only 1/3 of the growth of the blade of grass at a
time. Use
a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn to supply about
25% of the fertilizer needs of the lawn. A healthy growing lawn will not
develop thatch due to clippings as the clippings are 90% water and generally
decompose in 7-10 days.
Water (or rainfall) at a rate of
1" per week about every 3-4 days during the growing season. A little
more often if the temperature is very high. Water deeply to wet the top 3-5
inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light
watering (unless you are starting a new lawn) as this will promote shallow
root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions.
Bent grass is an unusually elegant, fine
textured grass, but requires consistent care. It is usually mixed with other
turf grasses for lawns in humid regions where nighttime temperatures are
cool, such as in New England and Pacific Northwest. Colonial bent grass, or
common bent grass, is used for lawns more so than creeping bent grass
which
you’ll find on golf course putting greens. Roots are shallow and fibrous,
having few short stolons and rhizomes, and forms dense turf if heavily
seeded and closely mowed. Bent grass
is subject to injury by root-eating
grubs, as well as sod webworms, cutworms, and mole crickets. Susceptibility
to many fungal diseases requires using fungicides as a preventative measure
against dollar spot, brown patch and snow mold.
HOW TO GROW.
Bent grass
grows best in
rich, well-drained soil high in nitrogen and a pH between 5.6 - 7.0. It is
slow to become established and cannot tolerate drought. Sow seeds at the
rate of one-half pound per 1000 square feet.
Since feeding requirements are high,
regular applications of fertilizer are necessary at an annual rate of 5
pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq feet. A slow release fertilizer is most
desirable.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in a bag take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g. 16-4-8, nitrogen
- potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the bag size.
Example: a 25 lb bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16 = 4). If
your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and wish to
put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet you would put down 15 pounds of
nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then you would
need about 4 bags twice a year.
Bent grass
requires frequent mowing
and it must be kept very short. Mow at a height of 1/2 to 1 inch. If mown
above one inch, bent grass
forms an undesirable spongy layer or mat.
Bent grass
suffers under drought
conditions and requires frequent watering. However, excess water can be just
as damaging as insufficient water during times of heat stress.
Bahia grass varieties are popular in
Florida and along the Gulf Coast. Bahia stays green most of the year in this
area, turning brown only after the temperature falls below 30 degrees. It
creeps along the surface with short, heavy runners that root as they go; its
light green blades are tough and slightly hairy. Bahia is not usually
bothered by nematodes but sod webworms, leaf hoppers, army worms, dollar
spot and brown patch do on occasion prove troublesome.
HOW TO GROW.
Bahia thrives in sandy
soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. It requires ample moisture but can
survive some drought because it sends down deep roots. It withstands salt
injury fairly well and tolerates partial shade. Sow seeds at the rate of 4
to 6 pounds per 1000 square feet in spring. Mow to a height of 2 1/2 to 3
inches.
Although bahia can be grown from
seeds, most lawns are propagated from sprigs or plugs set 6 to 12 inches
apart in spring.
Fertilize in the early spring, early
summer and late fall with a complete fertilizer at an annual rate of 2 to 4
pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. A slow release fertilizer is most
desirable.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in the bag take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g.. 16-4-8,
nitrogen - potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the
bag size. Example: a 25 lb. bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16
= 4). If your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and
wish to put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 square feet you would put down
15 pounds of nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then
you would need about 4 bags twice a year.
Mow regularly at height of 2 to 3
inches. Remove only 1/3 of the growth of the blade of grass at a
time. Use
a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn to supply about
25% of the fertilizer needs of the lawn. A healthy growing lawn will not
develop thatch due to clippings as the clippings are 90% water and generally
decompose in 7-10 days.
Water (or rainfall) at a rate of one
inch per week about every 3-4 days during the growing season. A little more
often if the temperature is very high. Water deeply to wet the top 3-5
inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light
watering (unless you are starting a new lawn) as this will promote shallow
root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions.
Common Bermuda grass is a long-jointed,
creeping species that spreads rapidly and vigorously. It is the most widely
used lawn grass in the warm climates across the southern United States, and
the hybrid forms produce some of the most beautiful of all lawns, noteworthy
for their texture and density. Various cultivators have been selected for
improved green color, vigor, resistance to pests and diseases, and
hardiness. All Bermuda grasses, like other warm-season species, turn brown
in cool weather below 50 degrees. They can suffer damage by chinch bugs,
mites, nematodes, sod webworms, army worms, mole crickets and fungus
diseases.
HOW TO GROW.
Bermuda grass does best
in rich, moist soil with a pH between 5.2 and 7.0. Most varieties require
full sun, but some hybrids tolerate light shade; all have a good resistance
to salt injury. Common Bermuda grass may be grown from sprigs or plugs set 6
to 12 inches apart or from seeds sown at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds per 1000
square feet in late spring or early summer; all the hybrids must be grown
from sprigs or plugs set 6 to 12 inches apart. Bermuda grasses require three
or four feedings a year; in the Deep South they should be fed every two
months.
Fertilize Bermuda
grass regularly
with a complete fertilizer high in nitrogen at an annual rate of 4 to 8
pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq feet. Light sandy soils require more
fertilization.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in the bag take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g. 16-4-8,
nitrogen - potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the
bag size. Example: a 25 lb bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16
= 4). If your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and
wish to put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet you would put down 15
pounds of nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then you
would need about 4 bags twice a year.
Mow the common variety to a height
of 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches. Remove only 1/3 of the growth of the blade of grass
at a
time. Thatch buildup can be a problem with Bermuda. You can reduce
thatch by always using a grass catcher or rake after mowing, but you will
also have to dethatch at least once a year (or more if necessary) in early
spring.
Water (or rainfall) at a rate of one
inch per week about every 3-4 days during the growing season. A little more
often if the temperature is very high. Water deeply to wet the top 3-5
inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light
watering (unless you are starting a new lawn) as this will promote shallow
root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions.
Centipede grass is considered the
easiest grass to maintain by many homeowners in Florida and the deep South.
It acquired its name because its thick spreading stems send out many roots,
giving the plant a centipede like appearance. The light yellowish green
leaves are somewhat coarse and, like all warm-season grasses, turn brown in
the cooler fall weather. Centipede grass is sometimes attacked by nematodes,
chinch bugs, leaf hoppers, mole crickets and sod webworms, but is moderately
drought resistant.
HOW TO GROW.
This grass will grow
well in soils that are on the acid side (pH 6.0 and less), including those
with a pH as low as 4.0, much more acid than can be tolerated by most other
grasses. It survives in light shade, but does not do particularly well close
to the sea. Regular irrigation is needed if it is to flourish.
Although centipede can be grown from
seeds sown in spring at the rate of 2 to 4 ounces per 1000 square feet, most
lawns are propagated from sprigs or plugs set 6 to 12 inches apart in
spring.
Fertilize centipede grass in the
spring and early fall with a complete fertilizer at an annual rate of 2 to 3
pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet, half the amount each time if
you
fertilize twice a year. A slow release fertilizer is most desirable.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in the bag take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g. 16-4-8,
nitrogen - potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the
bag size. Example: a 25 lb bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16
= 4). If your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and
wish to put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet you would put down 15
pounds of nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then you
would need about 4 bags twice a year.
Mow regularly at height of 2 to 2
1/2 inches. Remove only 1/3 of the growth of the blade of grass at a
time.
Use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn to supply about
25% of the fertilizer needs of the lawn. A healthy growing lawn will not
develop thatch due to clippings as the clippings are 90% water and generally
decompose in 7-10 days.
Water (or rainfall) at a rate of one
inch per week about every 3-4 days during the growing season. A little more
often if the temperature is very high. Water deeply to wet the top 3-5
inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light
watering (unless you are starting a new lawn) as this will promote shallow
root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions.
St. Augustine grass provides many
attractive lawns across the southern United States from Florida to
California. It is a warm-season grass that turns brown in winter. St.
Augustine spreads along the ground, rooting as it goes, usually producing a
solid, almost weed proof turf in its first season; its leaves are blue-green,
low growing and coarse. These grasses are susceptible to fungus diseases,
chinch bugs, army worms, sod webworms, mole crickets and nematodes as well
as to an apparently incurable disease called simply St. Augustine decline.
HOW TO GROW. St. Augustine must have
very moist soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0; it will grow in full sun,
partial shade, and even in heavy shade if given extra fertilizer and water.
It is also very tolerant of salt spray. Plant sprigs or plugs 6 to 12 inches
apart in early spring.
Fertilize St. Augustine grass
regularly (about every 6-8 weeks) with a complete fertilizer high in
nitrogen at an annual rate of 4 to 6 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square
feet. Light sandy soils require more fertilization.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in the bag take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g. 16-4-8,
nitrogen - potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the
bag size. Example: a 25 lb bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16
= 4). If your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and
wish to put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet you would put down 15
pounds of nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then you
would need about 4 bags twice a year.
Mow regularly at height of 1 1/2 to
2 1/2 inches. Remove only 1/3 of the growth of the blade of grass at a
time. Use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn to supply about
25% of the fertilizer needs of the lawn.
Thatch buildup can be a problem with
St. Augustine. Dethatch once a year (or more if necessary) in spring or
fall.
Water (or rainfall) at a rate of one
inch per week about every 3-4 days during the growing season. A little more
often if the temperature is very high. Water deeply to wet the top 3-5
inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light
watering (unless you are starting a new lawn) as this will promote shallow
root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions.
Zoysiagrass grows well in the South and
Southwest and are often used in coastal areas because they are salt
tolerant. Like other grasses adapted to warm climates, however, their leaves
turn brown at the first frost and do not turn green again until night
temperatures stay above 50 degrees. Zoysias spread by means of lateral stems
above and below ground. Zoysias are attacked by nematodes, mole crickets,
sod webworms, army worms, chinch bugs and fungus diseases.
HOW TO GROW.
Zoysias thrive in soil
with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0, but if given adequate moisture and fertilizer, they
can grow in soil as acid as pH 4.5 or as alkaline as pH 7.5. They prosper in
fairly dense shade and in full sun; however, if a Zoysia is grown with
Bermuda grass--a popular mixture for partly shaded lawns-- the Bermuda will
crowd out the Zoysia in the sunny areas. For a solid turf in one season
plant sprigs or plugs 6 inches apart in late April or May. If plugs are
placed 12 inches apart it will take 2 to 3 season for the lawn to fill in.
Fertilize in early spring, midsummer
and early fall with a complete fertilizer at an annual rate of 1 to 3 pounds
of nitrogen per 1000 sq feet. A slow release fertilizer is most desirable.
To calculate the amount of nitrogen
in the bag take the first of the three numbers on the bag (e.g. 16-4-8,
nitrogen - potassium - phosphorus) and multiply it (as a percentage) by the
bag size. Example: a 25 lb bag of 16-4-8 has 4 pounds of nitrogen (25 x .16
= 4). If your lawn is 10,000 square feet and you fertilize twice a year and
wish to put down 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. feet you would put down 15
pounds of nitrogen each time. If you purchased 25 lb bags of 16-4-8 then you
would need about 4 bags twice a year.
Mow regularly at height of 1 to 1
1/2 inches to avoid thatch and puffiness. Remove only 1/3 of the growth of
the blade of grass at a
time. Use a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn to supply about
25% of the fertilizer needs of the lawn. A healthy growing lawn will not
develop thatch due to clippings as the clippings are 90% water and generally
decompose in 7-10 days.
Water (or rainfall) at a rate of one
inch per week about every 3-4 days during the growing season. A little more
often if the temperature is very high. Water deeply to wet the top 3-5
inches of the soil to encourage deeper root growth. Avoid daily light
watering (unless you are starting a new lawn) as this will promote shallow
root growth and make the lawn more prone to drought conditions.
Attach the main sprinkler line to the service line Run it along
the bottom of the trench from the house to the first set of
valves, and if required, to the second set Place the valve wires
under the pipe in the bottom of the trench whenever possible.
WORKING WITH PVC PIPE
Cut pipe with a PVC pipe cutter
Brush on a primer to clean the pipe
surface and the inside of the fitting
Brush glue on the outside end of
the pipe and lightly inside the fitting
Slip the pipe into the fitting and give it a quarter turn
Hold in place for about 15 seconds so the glue can set
Wipe off excess glue with a rag
NOTE: Wait at least one hour before running water through the system. Check with glue manufacturer's recommendation.
WORKING WITH POLY PIPE
Cut pipe with a PVC pipe cutter
Slip a stainless-steel clamp over the end of the pipe
Insert the barbed fitting into the end of the
poly pipe, past the barbs
Slide the clamp over the barbs of the fitting
Tighten the clamp
A group of valves running off the same supply line is called
a manifold. We recommend grouping your valves into
manifolds based on their use or location. For example, one
control valve manifold to operate front yard zones and
one to operate backyard and/or side yard zones. Use flags
to mark the location of the valves, as indicated on
your worksheet.
ANTI-SIPHON VALVE INSTALLATION
Anti-siphon valves are backflow prevention valves designed
to protect your water supply from ontamination. Some sort
of backflow prevention is required on every irrigation system,
so you need to check the building codes in your area to find
out if an anti-siphon valve will work for you. These valves are
always installed above ground, so be sure to dig out an area
large enough to accommodate your inlet and outlet pipes.
IN-LINE VALVE INSTALLATION
In-line valves are installed below ground and should always be installed in a protective valve box. Dig out the area wherein‑ground valves are to be installed, and add several inches of gravel to the bottom of the hole. Place the top of the valve box so that it is even with the surface of the ground.
When you buy a valve box, be sure to find out how many valves fit in each box so you know how many to buy. In some cases, you will need more than one valve box per manifold.
VALVE INLET SIZE
Size of Inlet
GPM
3/4"
Under 10 GPM
1"
Above 10 GPM
Note: If one of the valves will be used for drip irrigation,
leave enough room between the valve and the sides of the valve
box for the filter and pressure regulator that are part of your drip
system. It may be a good idea to install those parts on the valve,
then, install the valve in the valve box.
Tip: When putting together your valve manifolds, always
include one or two extra connections in each manifold. This
makes it easier to expand your system at a later date.
Tip: Look for valves with the flow control feature.
It saves water
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Most grasses take on a dull, dark appearance and leaves
begin to roll when they need water. The best time to water is early
morning.
Many people say convenience is the biggest advantage to an automatic
system since they don't have to spend their time watering by hand or
moving the hose around the yard. Others say extended plant life and
lower water usage are the most important benefits. Still others believe
a sprinkler system is one of the best investments that they can make in
their home, since a home’s appearance is a key factor in determining
market value. And guess what -- they are all right!
Q.
Can I save money by installing my own system?
Q.
Will I have difficulty operating my sprinkler system?
Water Meter Size
Service Line Type/Size
Enter the Lower Number Here
To run
pipe under existing walkways you can "drill" using water pressure. Get a piece
of PVC long enough to go under the walk, glue a slip-female thread adapter to
one end and attach a hose. On the other end glue a slip-male thread adapter and
connect a Rain Bird Jet Spray Nozzle. Dig your trench up to the walk on both
sides. Now turn on the water and work your way through. It may take a while, and
it will get muddy so turn off the water once in a while to let the water soak
in. 
Manually flush the
system. Turn on the water at the "shut-off" to supply your system. Then operate
the valves manually to flush the system. Open each valve to flush the pipe with
water, then close. Refer to the valve instructions for manual operation. You
should do this with each valve.
WANT IT
FASTER? For $49.95 ($29.95 refundable fee with any Rain Bird product purchase,
no minimum dollar amount required), we can design your plans within three
business days and ship them to you via express mail. If you desire this service,
then please check the appropriate box on your "Sprinkler Design Instruction
Sheet". (prices subject to change.)
, your desired timer
with a circle 
,and desired manifold
locations with an 
.
.
.
.
The type and slope of the soil, the fertilizer that is used, and the
amount of water needed by plants and grass, and the efficiency of the
sprinklers affect when to water
To
run pipe under existing walkways you can "drill" using water pressure.
Get a piece of PVC long enough to go under the walk, glue a slip-female
thread adapter to one end and attach a hose. On the other end glue a
slip-male thread adapter and connect a Jet Spray Nozzle (available at
most home improvement and home & garden retailers). Dig your trench up
to the walk on both sides. Now turn on the water and work your way
through. It may take a while, and it will get muddy so turn off the
water once in a while to let the water soak in. 
Manually flush the system. Turn on the water at the "shut-off" to supply
your system. Then operate the valves manually to flush the system. Open
each valve to flush the pipe with water, then close. Refer to the valve
instructions for manual operation. You should do this with each valve.
The
success of your irrigation system depends largely on the contractor you
choose to design and install it. A contractor's expertise and skills
will affect your system's efficiency and reliability. In fact, how your
irrigation system is designed and installed will make the difference
between a system that continues to keep your lawn healthy and green, and
one that creates problems by wasting water and leaving your lawn
unhealthy and brown. Choosing the right contractor is a big decision,
but it is not as difficult as you may think. Here are a few tips that
will help you select a contractor who will guarantee a job well done.
An
efficient, well-organized contractor will be happy to provide you with
all the information you need to make an informed choice. First, the
contractor will want to view your property in order to determine soil
conditions, water sources and pressure, and planting materials. He will
then present a formal estimate detailing what he plans to do and the
total price for design, materials, and installation. Along with the
estimate, the contractor should clearly explain all the project
specifics. Generally, there should be little disruption to existing
foliage, and the average job should take less than a week.
The
best contractors will encourage you to ask many questions. By asking
questions, you will know what type of sprinkler system you are getting
for your money and what to expect from your new system. Here are a few
important questions to consider:
Above
all, you should choose a contractor you trust and in whom you feel
confident. It is also important that he installs professional series
products such as those manufactured by Rain Bird. For over 70 years,
professional irrigation contractors have used Rain Bird products to
provide the industry's most cost-effective and reliable irrigation
systems. Choosing a contractor who uses Rain Bird professional series
products is the best way to ensure that your project will be done right.
Your
sprinkler system is a complex network of pipes, valves, sprinklers, and
electrical connections. Because it serves as the circulation system for
your entire yard, the design and installation of your sprinkler system
is critical. This is a complicated process that requires specialized
tools and equipment, as well as a strong knowledge of landscape design
and hydraulics. This is why it is so important to have a professional
contractor design and install your system.
