Rain Bird 075-DV 3/4" in. FPT Valve
Rain Bird manufactures only the highest quality valves. Use DV/DVF series valves in locations where the use of a separate pressure vacuum breaker (PVB) or a double-check valve is required by city codes to protect against back flow. Check your local city codes to determine what type of valves are required. All of our valves work with any standard sprinkler timer.
- 3/4" in. FNPT Valve without Flow Control
- Double-filtered pilot-flow design for maximum reliability.
- Balanced-pressure diaphragm for long life.
- External bleed to manually flush system of dirt and debris during installation and system start-up.
- Internal bleed for spray-free manual operation.
- Energy-efficient, low-power encapsulated solenoid with captured plunger and 90-mesh (200 micron) solenoid filter.
- Buna-N diaphragm with self-cleaning 90 mesh (200 micron) pilot water filter and captive spring.
- Operates in low-flow and Xerigation applications when the RBY filter is installed upstream.
- 1.25" in. (3,2 cm) stainless steel phillips head screws.
- Accepts latching solenoid for use with Rain Bird battery-operated controllers.
- Five-year trade warranty.
- One solenoid handle per order
- Pressure: 15 to 150 psi
- 075-DV Non-Flow Control Model: 0.2 to 22 GPM. For flows below 3 GPM or any Xerigation application, use a 200 mesh filter installed upstream.
- 100-DV Non-Flow Control Model: 0.2 to 40 gpm . For flows below 3 gpm or any Xerigation application, use a 200 mesh filter installed upstream.
- 100-DVF Flow Control Model: 0.2 to 40 gpm ; For flows below 3 gpm or any Xerigation application, use a 200 mesh filter installed upstream.
- Temperature: Up to 110 degrees F (43 degrees C)
- Ambient air temperature: Up to 125 degrees F (52 degrees C)
- 24 VAC 50/60 Hz (cycles per second) solenoid power requirement:
- 0.30 A (7.2 VA) inrush current; 0.23 A (5.5 VA) holding current
- Solenoid coil resistance: 38 Ohms
- Height: 4-1/2" in.
- Width: 3-1/3" in.
- Length: 4-3/8" in.
over 2 years ago
1 year ago
I was going to do them vertical for much easier installation. Checking around I could find no reason why this wouldn't work, other than when they were vertical, future maintenance and parts replacement would be next to impossible for me to get at. For that reason alone, I ended up mounting them horizontal, but at alternating heights so that they could be packed tighter together. I had to really think through the installation order and was blind gluing a lot of joints down in a hole, but it all worked out. The valves work well and I can get to the tops of each valve if I had to replace parts later. I would rather have to replace the guts later into the valve body than try to cut out and install a new valve down in these holes again.
Hope that helps